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I have a 1985 Nighthawk 450 with a spun rod bearing on the right side. Of course, finding a replacement engine is not easy and I'm not very confident that I'd end up with something much better. I decided to tear down the engine to see if it might be worth repairing. I enjoy doing this stuff plus I like the idea of keeping as many of these old bikes in service as possible.
The crank journal with the spun bearing definitely needs machine work to clean up the scoring and out-of-round. I'd need to take it to a shop to be sure, but in my estimate it would need to be ground down to the very edge of allowable service limits at best (no undersized bearings available, to my knowledge). The rod to crank side clearance is also getting close to service limits. I think I'd be better off replacing the crankshaft and maybe the rods too. Of course, I should try to understand what caused the bearing to fail in the first place. I'm pretty sure the damage was done before I bought the bike, I suppose the best I can do is make sure all other clearances are within spec and all of the oil passages are clean with a healthy oil pump.
My question is if I buy a used crankshaft and rods from eBay, do I need to be concerned with careful balance between the crank/rods/pistons, or is this even done in production? Since this is engine design is fundamentally imbalanced, with the need for the external chain-driven balance weights to keep vibrations at the frame minimized, it would seem that small production variances in weight between the crank/rods/pistons wouldn't really matter much for the mechanical integrity of the engine, worst case I might feel slightly increased vibration getting transferred to the frame.
So can I just slap some randomly acquired rods and crankshaft in and expect it to balance well, or should I have a machine shop sort this out? I'm not looking for better than factory performance.
An interesting observation- my crankshaft has holes drilled in the counterweights, while the majority of crankshaft photos I see on eBay and elsewhere show no holes. I'm also aware that the 400 crank part number is the same as the 450. I'd assume that 450 pistons would be slightly heavier and would need adjustments to the crankshaft counterweights if balance is much of a concern. I've seen photos of both (presumably) 400 and 450 cranks with and without drill holes in the counterweights, mostly without.
Any advice or comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
The crank journal with the spun bearing definitely needs machine work to clean up the scoring and out-of-round. I'd need to take it to a shop to be sure, but in my estimate it would need to be ground down to the very edge of allowable service limits at best (no undersized bearings available, to my knowledge). The rod to crank side clearance is also getting close to service limits. I think I'd be better off replacing the crankshaft and maybe the rods too. Of course, I should try to understand what caused the bearing to fail in the first place. I'm pretty sure the damage was done before I bought the bike, I suppose the best I can do is make sure all other clearances are within spec and all of the oil passages are clean with a healthy oil pump.
My question is if I buy a used crankshaft and rods from eBay, do I need to be concerned with careful balance between the crank/rods/pistons, or is this even done in production? Since this is engine design is fundamentally imbalanced, with the need for the external chain-driven balance weights to keep vibrations at the frame minimized, it would seem that small production variances in weight between the crank/rods/pistons wouldn't really matter much for the mechanical integrity of the engine, worst case I might feel slightly increased vibration getting transferred to the frame.
So can I just slap some randomly acquired rods and crankshaft in and expect it to balance well, or should I have a machine shop sort this out? I'm not looking for better than factory performance.
An interesting observation- my crankshaft has holes drilled in the counterweights, while the majority of crankshaft photos I see on eBay and elsewhere show no holes. I'm also aware that the 400 crank part number is the same as the 450. I'd assume that 450 pistons would be slightly heavier and would need adjustments to the crankshaft counterweights if balance is much of a concern. I've seen photos of both (presumably) 400 and 450 cranks with and without drill holes in the counterweights, mostly without.
Any advice or comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this.