Honda Twins banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
A brief history: Purchased the bike several years ago and rode it all of 2017 up until it got too cold and snowy. Tucked it away in the garage for a few months. Hooked up the battery charger/maintainer two weeks ago. Realized that the battery was dry and figured it likely needed replacement (it was the one that came with the bike and I had no idea how old it was). I purchased a new battery, added the acid, hooked it up to the charger/maintainer for 2 days. I installed it in the bike, inserted and turned the key to the on position and NOTHING! No indicator lights, no head light, no blinkers and no starter!! I took the battery out and went to the local Auto Zone where I bought it and had them hook it up to their battery tester. It showed 12.8 volts. I left and took it to Advanced Auto Parts just down the road and they tested it at 12.6 volts. What could have happened while it sat for 3 months in my garage? I took the left side cover off and checked the 3 fuses (one 15 amp and two 7 amp). I removed all three, inspected them and reinserted them. None of them were blown. Are there any other fuses to check? I don't own a multi-meter, but suspect one is in my future. Any advice will be MUCH appreciated
Thanks,
Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,838 Posts
You don't just check static voltage on a battery, it should have been load tested. A bad battery can have voltage but very little amps, putting a meter on the battery can show 12V but when you turn the key on it can drop below a useful voltage. You will need to get a meter to see where the voltage is going and where it isn't.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
A VOM, volt-ohm meter, is going to be needed to check everything out. A 12V test light will work for some of it.
Start at the fuse block, the 15A fuse in particular. Sand the brass holders and the ends of the fuse so there's clean contact, pinch the brass holders together also. You should have battery voltage present on both sides of the fuse with the key off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, I read through the Ignition Diagnosis Sticky. Good info, but nothing that I thought applied. Any recommendations on a VOM? Amazon...Harbor Freight? Any particular brand name?
Thanks,
Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
A cheap HF VOM will work for now, you'll want a better one eventually.
Battery power starts at the Positive post to the starter solenoid where there's a Red wired plug that feeds the fuse block and then the ignition switch. Do you have the FSM? Maybe a color wiring diagram will help. PM sent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have another motorcycle, a 2003 Honda VTX 1800. The 1800 does start and the battery is fine. I think I'll remove it from the VTX and try it on the CM400 before I go to all kinds of trouble shooting.
Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
Make sure a fuse isn't blown. Sometimes they look fine, but still don't work. Look at your wiring and make sure mice haven't gnawed on it, too. I'd think a battery that shows 12.6 volts would at least make the lights come on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
83XLX,
I thought about the "mouse scenario" too. I did give a quick look see, but didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Will remove the seat & take a closer look this weekend.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
I would try it again. Make sure all connections are in the right place and
good and tight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,266 Posts
Have you taken your headlight out of the bucket to inspect the connections therein as well?

Thinking from a roadside troubleshooting standpoint first I'd have a look at the battery, fuses and frame grounds with a meter, then I'd have a look at the connections between components and the wiring harness. The simplest cause would be the connector between your Keyswitch and your harness inside the headlight bucket. Without that not much will happen. Does your key turn normally without any resistance or tightness that you don't remember?

Another simple, common and slightly embarrassing cause is accidentally leaving your battery terminals loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Have you taken your headlight out of the bucket to inspect the connections therein as well?

Thinking from a roadside troubleshooting standpoint first I'd have a look at the battery, fuses and frame grounds with a meter, then I'd have a look at the connections between components and the wiring harness. The simplest cause would be the connector between your Keyswitch and your harness inside the headlight bucket. Without that not much will happen. Does your key turn normally without any resistance or tightness that you don't remember?

Another simple, common and slightly embarrassing cause is accidentally leaving your battery terminals loose.
Pull the light. My 79 experienced exactly that. got a new ignition hooked her up and VROOOOM!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
What are these 2 things right next to the battery? Do they go bad & ever need replacing? How do you test them with a VOM? Also, I removed the seat & the headlight and visually inspected the wiring & connections. Nothing appeared gnawed on by a mouse & the connections were tight. I still have to remove the battery from my VTX & try it in the cm400. I also sprayed WD40 into the key ignition slot thinking maybe some corrosion or oxidation may have formed in there.....still nothing. Frustrating
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
The part to the right in the first picture is the starter solenoid. The positive battery cable connects to one side and the starter cable to the other. The rubber piece above the battery is a protective sleeve, there's connector inside. Notice the Red wire going in? That connects to the voltage regulator and to the top 15A fuse.
Since the headlight is out test for battery voltage on the White connector that has Red, Black, Black w/White, Green, Brown and Brown w/White wiring. That's the ignition switch connector. If there's power on the Red there then turn the key On and check for power on the Black, Brown and Brown w/White. No power on the Red means there's a problem between the battery, fuse block and wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My son & I were able to pop start the CM400 this afternoon. It ran great. All the lights, blinkers, brake light & horn worked like normal. I even pressed the starter button quickly and could hear the starter trying to engage. All electrical components worked fine once it was running. Not sure what this means, as for as bad connections or wiring. Does this give anyone here an indication as to what component to look at or test first?
Thanks,
Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
Start at the battery, get it load tested. If that's good then it's a follow the wiring circuits working from the Red wires at the solenoid up to the ignition switch and out from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
I had something similar long ago. Bike ran great in fall and in spring it was just dead. Nothing would lite up. Turns out i just had a loose negative terminal on the battery. Check the connections, clean them make sure they are tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took the battery to a local bike shop. They load tested it & it checked out fine. The battery is good. I bought a 15 amp fuse for a dollar. Will clean the contacts & keep my fingers crossed.
Wish me luck,
Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,266 Posts
I'll keep a good thought for ya Tom! You may also have a look at the connector where the fuse holder connects to the rest of the harness for less than shiny clean connections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
I’m having the same issue right now with my ‘80 CM400T man. Going to re-test fuses and connection points... I wanted to re-wire the bike in the next few weeks, but I kinda wanted it working.

I left the bike outside once (accidentally) when it snowed (the snow came 14 hours early), took it in. That was the last time it was running (though it ran perfectly).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
To all,
After checking a few things, it turns out all I needed was a new 15 amp fuse. To look at it, it looked fine. The wire is intact and no haze in the glass tube......I feel silly. Thanks for everyone's input. It needed a new battery anyhow.
Thanks,
Tom
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top