Honda Twins banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having trouble clearing my gear cover case with a aftermarket gearshift lever should I get a oem one? Of so I CANT FIND ONE ANYWHERE lol any help would be appreciated this is my first build really want it to be right
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I figured out I need to set it lower DUH lol I also need help finding bolts for my left side gear cover cannot find them anywhere do I need special bolts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
The bolts are 6 x 35 mm, 1.0 pitch. Factory bolts used an 8mm head, you can use Stainless Allen heads.
The shift lever should be pointing straight ahead and parallel to the ground, might need to bend it out a bit for clearing the case cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've went out and bought some 6mm x 30 flange bolts today will that work for now I'm definitely going to get some stainless steel hex bolts that's a great upgrade thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's a good site I've been wondering how to take the air assist fork caps off wat tool do I need? I also finally got my gear cover off today (broken bolt) and my stator? I guess is caked with powdery rust and my sproket is loose is that normal?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
The front sprocket has movement in/out on the shaft and a little bit of radial play. Dry rust on that area indicates the PO never lubed the chain.
The fork caps come off with a 17mm wrench, open end fits the cap. You do have to remove the hose first and be sure to support the front of the bike so when the cap comes loose it doesn't fly away as the bike falls down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,796 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
The rust on the stator is of no concern really, you might remove it and clean the magnets on the inside using electrical cleaner and a soft brush so the insulation coating doesn't get torn up. It's a clear coat. The only other important part on the rotor is the timing magnet which looks fine. The rust is just cosmetic appearance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You guys are life savers I thought I was gonna not be able to do this and was getting discouraged my dumb clymer manual isnt worth anything...a few more ?s will that clip and bolts fit my cm400 and how do I take the stator off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How do u know the timing magnet is fine? I love learning more bout bikes I look at the stator and I'm dumbfounded! Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,796 Posts
Yes, that clip will fit the CM 400 . It will also help to keep the chain/sprockets in line.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
Rotor is removed using a 20mm x 1.5 pith bolt, Motion Pro sells it as a tool.
I know the timing magnet is good because it's intact. It'd have to loose magnetism to be bad. DO NOT remove those little screws on the outside of the rotor, those set the magnets inside into position.
You need a real FSM instead of the Clymer, PM sent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Plus it's a while away but I want to put a seat loop on my bike I've seen older CB's have a tube u can sometimes weld the loop to does the 81 cm have any of that?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,208 Posts
Read thru the project logs and you'll see the different variations of doing that with a hoop.
Odds are you clutch cable needs replacement, not the clutch.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top