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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alrighty, so I bought my 1968 Honda Cl 350 K0 8 months ago on December 6th of 2014. It took me from that evening until sometime in early February 2015 to get it down to a frame, a few boxes, and a bunch of zip lock baggies. From February throughout the start of spring I was cleaning dirt, rust, and grime off of every piece I pulled and taking small seeds out of nooks and crannies where my seat and "sprocket area" housed some critter friends. Then as the New Jersey weather started to warm up real nice I began to paint and finish up anything that still had it's 47 years worth of dirt on it.

About two or three weeks ago I put my first piece back onto the frame. Now, after some more tinkering, I have two new tires on, and I have dissembled and reassembled the front forks. These two feats, along with every little thing I did is amazing to me because coming into this project i still had to say "lefty loosey, righty tighty" out loud more than a couple times a night!

Now, as I get closer and closer to hearing the sound of an engine in my garage and not just a wrench, I have lots of questions for this first time build. Some for cosmetics, some out of complete confusion, and the rest for safety. Here are some pictures of the bike when I first got it, and a picture of what it looks like currently. Please feel free to scrutinize and question everything you see in pictures because I would be much happier with criticism then a bike falling apart while I'm riding it haha.

Here's "Beth":

IMG_2796.JPG IMG_2803.JPG IMG_2814.JPG IMG_2819.JPG IMG_2821.JPG IMG_2828 2.JPG IMG_2835.JPG IMG_2836.JPG IMG_2852.JPG IMG_2867.JPG IMG_2899 3.JPG IMG_2953.JPG

For Search Purposes:

1968 Honda Cl 350 KO
 

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Discussion Starter #2
My first question to get things rolling concerns the entire process of putting the forks back together and then putting them back into the steering assembly. I am almost certain I have put the forks themselves back together correctly. I am almost certain I put in the new races and the new bearings from All Balls. (Ended up not using either the thin nor the thick washer, instead the original, extremely thin, washer that was on the bike)

My problem is that when I feed the forks up through the lower bridge and try to connect it to the 19mm nut at the top it won't reach because it begins to compress down into itself when it hits the rubber seal at the top of the fork ear. Also, embarrassing to ask, but these springs should be inside the forks under the boots right? I didn't seem to take a good amount of pictures when I dissembled the forks. I was getting so excited that I didn't want to stop to take any pictures haha.

Here's some pictures of my forks as I confusingly try to figure out how to get them back on.

IMG_4357.jpg IMG_4358.jpg

And here's pictures of the bike's current state and what I have put on thus far. Everything except for the two bolts holding in the rear shocks are what I believe to be in the right place and will eventually be tightened into place when I am finished. So, please give it a look to see if it is correct. I plan on down the road taking this bike to at least one person to have them run over it in person and check it for safety reasons.

IMG_4359.JPG IMG_4360.jpg IMG_4361.jpg IMG_4362.JPG IMG_4363.jpg IMG_4364.jpg IMG_4365.JPG

And then I have this gap in between the "top thread head" as cmsnl (#10 - Honda Cl350 Scrambler 350 K0 1968 Usa Steering Stem - schematic partsfiche) calls it and the steering stem frame. That's something I feel worried about causing difficulties with putting the fork back together but I'm not sure because I've never done this before!

IMG_4366.jpg

Thanks a million for the future help, patience, and information everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anybody? I know that one fork is on in the picture but that one went on easy because the springs that I am questing weren't inside its' boots. I feel like the solution to this problem is going to be so simple haha. But, alas, I still can't figure it out just yet.

I tried putting them on with the spring both dry and wet (with fork oil) and neither would reach all the way up to the top bolt.
 

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Wish that I could help you out on reassembly but I am only on the deconstruction phase of my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wish that I could help you out on reassembly but I am only on the deconstruction phase of my bike.
No worries, when you start climbing back up feel free to ask me any questions! I have already overcome a lot of obstacles but this one is tripping me up for some reason!
 

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Try and PM 83XLX and see if he has any insight to your problem. Very knowledgeable about CL350s
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pics

Black plastic tube under spring
Sitting on top toward bars, not wheel.
Rubber boots over all.
Doode, I will double check later that this is how I have it orientated, but I'm pretty positive how you are describing the springs with the black inner plastic piece being closer to the bars than the wheel is how I have it set up. So, if I do have it correctly organized why can't I get them to reach the thread of the top bolt in the upper bridge?

When I start bringing the forks up through the lower bridge they are fine but once they hit the top rubber dust seal of the fork ear they don't have enough force behind them to push through and they instead compress down into themselves. But because of the fork ears being in the way there is no other way for me to get them to go higher or push through in a stronger manner.

Still feel silly about this one haha
 

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Try taking the covers off... so it's just your forks and trees, and see if they still give you trouble. Something might be in the way.

Also, is your fork completely extended? I threaded a hose and pulled it through the top on my 72 350
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Try taking the covers off... so it's just your forks and trees, and see if they still give you trouble. Something might be in the way.

Also, is your fork completely extended? I threaded a hose and pulled it through the top on my 72 350
I think that is what the problem is. I also think I saw your thread where you did that, or someone did that, but I don't get how it worked. Could you link the thread or explain? Also, I'll try without the ears and see how it lines up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think that is what the problem is. I also think I saw your thread where you did that, or someone did that, but I don't get how it worked. Could you link the thread or explain? Also, I'll try without the ears and see how it lines up.
I'll look into that, and here's what everything looked like without the ears.

And also pictures of my various rubber seals that I *think* are in the right place.

IMG_4369.jpg IMG_4370.jpg IMG_4371.jpg IMG_4372.jpg IMG_4373.jpg IMG_4374.JPG IMG_4375.JPG IMG_4377.JPG
 

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It's been a looooong time since I took my forks apart. I think the plastic fork leg protector goes on the bottom, next to the fork seal. The top fork bolts will be compressing the fork springs as you tighten them, so you need to leave the lower pinch bolts loose until they are tight. That's about all I remember about them....sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alrighty, Outobie came to the rescue on another thread I posted about this issue. His answer was as follows:


Quote Originally Posted by outobie:
"Lower triple tree to frame
Then attach top triple tree, install but don't tighten top nut
install both forks without fork ears
torque fork tube top bolt
torque top triple clamp nut
torque lower triple tree bolts
remove top triple tree again
install headlight ears with rubbers
reinstall top triple tree torque all"

It was that easy!

So I mocked them up and tightened everything in and they look great! Now I'll break them back down, put in the fork oil, put them back on, and move onto the front wheel. I am literally going to jump for joy when I get her back into a "roller"!

Any other ideas on next pieces to go in?

Right now I am at:
Front Wheel and Fender
Rear Fender
(After I sand and clean the inside of the brake hubs and replace all four shoes as well as the bike's chain)
Then put her engine back in!

After that it's electrical and all the tiny fixings throughout the bike which I am sure will throw up their own roadblocks of fun along the way.

Thanks as always guys, I'll check back soon!

IMG_4382.jpg

Any comments on the craftsmanship of this bike? I keep herring the veterans around here commenting on certain bikes being art pieces, but this one appears to be a work of art that can function just as well. It won't be where my bike ends up this time around, but over time I'd love to have something along this style.

Screen Shot 2015-08-14 at 5.28.40 PM.png
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here's a question for you guys. Since one of the next things on is the fenders, I was wondering if anyone had experiences with painting the under side of them. I got most of the loose rust off the inside but they still have a solid brown color to them and I was looking to hit them with some primer and black to cover that rust color. But in such a nasty area i don't know how any paint job I could do would stand up for long.
 

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I just pulled mine from the oxalic acid bath and was planning on using a self etching primer and epoxy coat on the under side. I can't speak to the long term on this treatment but it will surely stop the corrosion. Here is the before, pretty rusty. I have it cleaned up now ready to paint.

Fender Before.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just pulled mine from the oxalic acid bath and was planning on using a self etching primer and epoxy coat on the under side. I can't speak to the long term on this treatment but it will surely stop the corrosion. Here is the before, pretty rusty. I have it cleaned up now ready to paint.

View attachment 63202
I have a few gallons of apple cider vinegar that have taken must of the rust off of my entire bike over the past few months. Could you explain the "self etching primer and epoxy coat"? So far my paint knowledge extends from primer to paint to protective enamals. (rattle cans)
 

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Those two pics you showed looking down the fork tube at the fork seal...maybe it's just the pic, but something doesn't look right to me. The fork slider is held on by a large circlip on top of the seal, right? These forks (if they are K0 forks) are different from the later forks with internal springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Those two pics you showed looking down the fork tube at the fork seal...maybe it's just the pic, but something doesn't look right to me. The fork slider is held on by a large circlip on top of the seal, right? These forks (if they are K0 forks) are different from the later forks with internal springs.
The cir clip is under that "dust seal" that is shown as the top piece inside the fork in that picture. But it is on top of the fork seal itself.

Honda Cl350 Scrambler 350 K0 1968 Usa Front Fork (cl) - schematic partsfiche

What does the cmsnl diagram suggest about the order of the pieces? I haven't yet got the bust understanding of some of the more intricate set ups on their pages. To my memory, I did new fork seal and then the washer and then the cir clip and then that dust seal that fits in easily with your hands. Originally I had the dust seal that's there now and the one pictured in the bottom of the fork ears switched.

Please, do let me know if this is the wrong order, or something is missing!

EDIT: Any way to confirm they are KO forks? They don't have that internal spring that I see most people dealing with, just the external spring inside the fork boots.
 
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