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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the 79, mounted, nasty carbs, not synced...... etc. First run, I'm just wondering what these noises are.

Next step is adjusting cam chain, valves, and actually cleaning the carbs.

But for NOW.... lemme know if what you're hearing.

Aaaaaand, seems I don't know how to upload a video.

So I posted my first ever videos on YouTube. There are 3

Named 400A 1, 400A 2, and 400A 3.

Don't judge, I have no clue how to upload videos to anything.

:)


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On the toolbar above the space you're typing in, second icon from the right end, is the "insert video" button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Or, try searching under "xntriklytwzted"


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is what I see IMG_9316.JPG


And under each of the pic/cam/paper clip icons it doesn't show the videos in my pix on my phone. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oil level is good, plan on cleaning carbs, adjusting valves, and cam chain in following days. I'm probably going to shy away from the balancer adjust, as that will involve popping off that side cover, and I don't have a gasket yet. I'm looking to spend as little cash as possible until I KNOW this is a good motor. I don't hear rod knock, so I think that's a good indicator....


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And thank you very much for the assist, doode.


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Check that your exhaust flange gaskets aren't leaking as well.
 

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Hurrah its working again !

Do not put off the balance chain adjustment !

You have a manual now ?

If not just remove the slotted cover at the front of the clutch cover and see the central 12mm af lock nut and slot.

The locking lever will rotate anticlockwise due to spring loading when the nut is slackend, and auto adjust. It may be to be exercised due to some stickion.

If you look at the other nut, the 14mm af one, see the dot on the end of the shaft.

This dot position is important as it shows wear and if any adjustment is remaining.

Any slot remaining after an auto adjust ?

If not then the locking lever is repositionable on the main shaft due to splines, but, the clutch cover has to come off to do this.

You will be able to see a short run of the balance chain thru the slotted nut hole, with the aid of a small light. Also it is possible to probe the chain to check for any slack. This is much easier when the clutch cover is off.

If you have to remove the clutch cover, it is a good opportunity to flush out the sump floor, not forgetting the kick start oil trough and clutch basket.

Note

The dot on the shaft is important as it shows remaining adjustment.

At 3 o clock is the max unadjusted position.

The shaft rotates anticlockwise due to spring loading auto adjust.

At 9 o clock is the max possible chain tension point.

If the system is worn out the dot shaft will rotate round and round anticlockwise until the spring loading in undone.

If the dot is below the horizontal at the 9 o clock position the system is worn out and needs immediate attention, meaning engine out and sump off. No need to disturb the some times problematic head bolts, which can be a real bad can of worms.
 

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Do some research on here about the balance system, your may be the cush drive type. Also the rollerless roller chain can wear quite badly on the solid rollers, as they mesh in the same place all the time, scuffing onto and off the sprockets rather than rolling into mesh and out, like the rear wheel drive chain.
 

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If this is an "A" in order to adjust the balance chain you will have to drain the oil remove the right side cover and the torque converter. Then the inner cover. If you dont have a FSM to explain how to replace the torque converter dont take it off.


Just my thought.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is indeed an A, I swapped in a 79 A for my old 78 A. I adjusted the valves, changed the oil, adjusted the cam chain, and she still has an idling knock, from top end. Very light, though distinct, and will quiet down as rpm increases, and under a high idle in gear. CURRENTLY, the 78A carbs are mounted up (on a 79A motor). I'm wondering if what I'm hearing isn't a spark knock. Carbs are sync'd, though may probably be a little dirty. I disassembled them, and cleaned without splitting, but admittedly I've done better cleaning jobs (I just wanted to get them in there to hear the motor). I know my air screws are a little off, as about 1/4 throttle to 1/2 there's a dead spot. I plan on taking my time to clean the original carbs for that motor, install them, and see where that leads as the jetting is different, etc. she rides good though, hummed along just dandy 55-60. Top speed was 85-80ish. I'll try to post another vid in the coming days of the noises she's making now. Thanks everyone!


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Some of these "A" motors are just noisy by nature. There are members on here that have thousands of miles on their bikes that sound like sewing machines. If everything is set right and it runs well just enjoy it.

Bill
 
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