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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Might as well throw another 360 project log onto the fire :) Had the bike about a year, bought it from the original owner's son who had it in the garage for 13 years, then tipped it over and bent the bars. At least that was his story, more to come on that later...bike only had 2700 miles on it when I got it. Another kinda cool thing is that it has the original plate and tab on it, hasn't been registered since '76! Didn't get the title, though, so doing the dance with the state to get that, eventually...

Found out later that someone tried to "fix" the carbs and broke both of them. Got new bodies off of ebay cheap and swapped the old parts over. Missing side covers and filters which I sourced locally. Tank isn't original, probably came off a bigger bike as it seems wider than the 360 tank I picked up to replace it. Front brake was also locked up, I rebuilt it and had the rotor turned and drilled to help with cooling. Also got new tires as the originals still had good tread but were hardened by age.




The goal of the project is to make the 360 what Honda should have made it. They made it better than the 350, but worse at the same time. So I'm going to (try to) fix the things that made it worse. A few design problems I've seen so far:

power - apparently terribly under carbed for it's displacement and a weak set of 35 year old coils aren't helping, this'll be pretty straightforward
vibration - everyone whose ridden one knows about this. The stock pegs are bolted directly to the engine mount, which isn't dampened at all. This will be the hardest problem to rectify.
gearing - the six speed is cool, but I'd like it to turn a few less revs at cruising speed and do a little less shifting; it isn't a race bike.
looks - needs some love :p
brakes - the stock system has too many connections, too many squishy rubber lines. Planning on converting it to an electric switch and removing the hydraulic switch, making it a single reinforced line from master to caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
current state:


Much to be done. The frame is starting to show rust at the welds but the rest of the paint is really good. It seems a shame to have it down this far and not paint it, but I'm not really looking to invest the extra $300-500 to do it.

I'm building a custom battery tray to relocate a smaller battery to where the tool box used to be. That way the battery is down low and I can run pods. On the hunt for a battery that is thin enough.

I also bought a set of bronze swingarm bushings but these are still great so I'm going to leave them alone until they're needed.

Planned parts to install (already in hand):
  • 1. Dyna "ignition booster" - so the points are low low maintenance
    2. XS650 coils, new plug wires and caps for that sweet sweet spark
    3. 520 chain conversion with a 17T/32T ratio c/o http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/. They have it, just call them. ~$100 for the pair (with sales tax and shipping). The 530 chain doesn't make sense on a bike this size and I wanted to change the final drive ratio anyway.
    4. GL1000 kickstand - ~1 inch shorter, which will correct the minimal amount of lean the bike has on the stock stand. It's no wonder the PO turned it over, the damn things sit pretty much upright.
    5. Black drag bars, bar end mirrors and new grips
    6. Red LED's for the instruments

Future purchases:
  • 1. GS550 headlight (takes a removable H-type bulb and looks right on the bike, just a little smaller)
    2. LED turn signals
    3. smaller brake light
    4. MAC 2-1 exhaust
    5. vinyl gauge overlays (probably black)

Haven't quite worked out a solution for the rear sets yet. I was eyeballing some CB350 passenger pegs but I'm not sure I can get them to bolt where my engine mounts are. I think they'd be the perfect height, though. I don't want them on the current passenger pegs because that's too high for it to be comfortable.


I already know how I need to mod the engine mounts to accept a set of bushings and it's pretty minimal, I just can't get anyone to sell me bushings by size instead of by application...the search continues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sprockets!



32T 520 chain aluminum rear, and a LOT lighter than the stock assembly. If steel ones were available I'd have gone that route, but they aren't.



Hard to tell but there's a little bit of a gap between the snap ring and the washer, looks like the aluminum sprocket is a tiny bit thinner. I'll probably shore up the back of the studs with a washer to take up the difference. Come to find out, those studs don't actually hold the sprocket on, they're just sitting in some rubber bushings. The giant and pain-in-the-ass snap ring is what keeps the sprocket on the hub.



17T front, not a whole lot of clearance between the sprocket and the guard, looks like the guard is going to get modified. Also, note the lack of fastener holes for the retaining ring. Luckily, (a) it is sized to accept a 1" C-clip and (b) failing a pep boys run, the SL350 used a C-clip to attach the sprocket which is identical to this one. Also a little thinner than the old 530 sprocket, but a washer should do the trick.

Having washers on both also gives me a little flexibility in getting the chain running true between the sprockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally a couple updates. For the frame mods I'm at the point where I'm going to need a welder to continue and that's hung me up a bit.

I did get the new 520 rear sprocket (now low gloss black) mounted up today:


I had to put two 16mm washers (c/o home depot racing) on the back of the sprocket studs to take up the gap left by the thinner rear sprocket, then found that to be too large. A little countersink on the inside edge to clear the stud radius and it fit:

I'd like to have had slightly thinner washers, but these work ok. The sprocket offset is what I want for the plan to shift the engine slightly to the left anyway.

Also wanted to increase the lean angle of the bike when it's on the kickstand. Took my OEM kickstand to a bike salvage shop and they dug up one from a GL1000 that was about an inch shorter. Apparently they use smaller wheels, hence the shorter kickstand. Here's a side-by-side:

It is perfect. And it bolts right up. I used my return spring since it seemed to be a bit shorter than the one from the GL and still has plenty of spring power in it.


Back on it's feet! It's nice to be putting things on the bike again instead of pulling and cleaning. Now I'm going on the road for work for about a month, so nothing much is going to change until I get back and buy a welder.
 

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Sharkmonkey said:
Back on it's feet! It's nice to be putting things on the bike again instead of pulling and cleaning. Now I'm going on the road for work for about a month, so nothing much is going to change until I get back and buy a welder.
That is a nice feeling when it start to look like a bike again, really gets you motivated. Looking really good. Glad to see you taking lots of pics too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update time! After a long hiatus for work and other stuff, I'm finally back on to this. In the past month, here's what I've got up to.

Welded in the new mounts! This picture only has one of them, but you can see the red area marked to cut out on the other side. Align, cut, align, etc. I finally got them set up so they're right where the OEM holes are. Did a hasty mask and spray job and it looks ok. It's not a show bike, after all, I just don't want it to rust. Now for the forward left:

This one's cleaned up and finished. Now to the other side:

You can just see the center bushing on the aft, that's tightened against the case and there's a neoprene washer and a steel washer on the outside to finalize the isolation. On the forward mount, I picked up some small neoprene washers and stacked them between the mount clip and the frame to provide isolation there. I will probably have to lock wire the bolts since I can't quite tighten them down and still have it on a squishy bushing. The two mounts at the top rear of the case I didn't use (yet) as I don't think I need them. I'm also not certain I'll bolt the head mount up; while it is on an isolator, I just don't see how I need it with the four at the bottom.

Also noted some ugliness with the intake valve rocker arms:

That's no good for the oil film. I took the dremel to it, sanding to get down to relatively flat metal, then some various grit abrasive wheels, then 600/1000/1500 emery paper and it came out pretty nice (with plenty of waiting/cooling in between). I figure the worst thing I did was shorten the life of the rocker some, but that's better than it wearing on my cam lobes.

De-rusted the tank using vinegar, worked like a charm! Two days soaking, then a half-drain and slosh with various metal bits inside, then alcohol, then gas. Barely any rust left in there, now. I've also been using it to clean up the fasteners. Put the replacement tank on to mock up where I wanted to position the bars:

So that's what it looks like as of now. Still have to fab up the battery tray, install a few more pieces and figure out how the foot pegs/controls are going to come out, but it's coming along quickly now.

I ran out of time (I have to move again in 3 weeks) to tear into the top end and clean/check the valves, replace seals, etc. like I wanted to. It'll have to be a winter project after I get back to Seattle.

I'm still at odds about the seat. On the one hand, it's factory original, no tears, good foam, etc. it's just got overspray all over it and I haven't been able to clean it off. Tried mineral spirits, goo gone, vinyl cleaner and some other stuff to no avail.
 

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Get your tools out!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Updates from November:

Got some materials to put a battery tray together:


Cut some brackets from .125 aluminum "borrowed" from work


Riveted the aluminum angle (c/o Home Depot Racing) and used galvanized steel sheet for the base/heat shield. Here's the whole thing dropped in with my 5.4 Ah battery dropped in it


Oh, what's with that innocuous looking plate bolted in there?


Let's take a look underneath


It's all the electrics! Tucked nicely up in between the frame rails. I did some sanding around the bolt holes and on the structure to make sure everything grounds properly. Here's a side shot with the pods in:


Everything fits! No hacking required, a place for everything, and everything in it's place. I plan on running the side covers to stealthify the whole thing, and to keep people from asking "Is that a 350?".

ALSO! If anyone needs to get some overspray off vinyl, I picked up Motsenbocker's lift off 4 (for graffiti) and it lifted probably 90% of the overspray off my seat! It looks really good now. I have a picture on my camera I'll download tomorrow once I make it back to Seattle for good! And I get my bikes back on Tuesday, so I can get my new garage set up and get to work making sure all those electrical bits are happy with each other.
 

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I don't think you're going to like that battery. It'll boil over from overcharging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally set up in the new garage, so back to work I go. Pulled the top end apart to clean it up, do a little mild porting and replace the valve stem seals. Piston cleaning:

Head after a little de-carboning:

It had to soak for a while, and there was a lot of scrubbing. But good news was the valves held the fluid in, so I don't have any leaks there. Still going to do a final lap before I put it back together, though. Valves:

Anyone seen this brown crust before? The only way I could break it loose was with a steel scraper or emery paper. It's only on the exhaust valves.

Here you can see the valve stem seals were leaking. I have a set of NOS ones, but I'm thinking of buying actual new ones, just to be safe.

I couldn't really get my camera to take a good close up of the porting I did, but I cleaned up all the casting roughness from the ports and the rough edges from the valve seat cutting. It should flow smoothly now, and I opened up the exhaust ports as much as I dared (which probably isn't much). Next step is to put the top end back together and get started building the exhaust!

Also, a word to the unwise (from one), don't buy these tools for valve springs:

They don't work, the side clearances on the springs is not enough for one of these tools to fit. Buy something like this: http://www.motosport.com/atv/product/HP ... ?id=115388 It costs around the same as those other tools, but actually works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Time to accelerate the project, as I got the biggest piece of the puzzle completed! I started building my own exhaust, not particularly liking the off-the-shelf option. The side mount didn't allow me to put the footpegs where I thought they should be, and I thought a 2-1 underneath the engine would be better. The bike already has a lot of ground clearance, so that shouldn't be an issue.

So, started with the headers:

I bought mandrel bent pieces from mandrel-bends.com which is in Oregon, just a day's mail away from me, and straight tube from onlinemetals.com, which is just down the street from my house!

Test fit:

So far so good. I did a LOT of cut/tack/fit/cut/tack/check...it would have went a lot cleaner and quicker had I had a horizontal band saw, but what are you gonna do. The really tricky part was since the OD of this tube is smaller than the stock pipe (not as thick), I had to make my own exhaust collars out of a big SS washer and some one size up tube.

Now, for the piece de resistance!

Adding a little modern flair :D I decided after spending a bunch of time trying to clean up the welds on the header, I'd just wrap the pipe instead. So a 2" roll of DEI Titanium and some stainless steel wire later, the whole system is complete!


It really makes the bike's profile leaner, since nothing sticks out past the engine width now. I know the pipe that comes out and up to the muffler looks a little odd at that angle, but it is actually in a perfect place to accommodate the footpeg that's going to go right on the brake pivot shaft. And the centerstand stays, which I like. I might eventually replace it with an aluminum stand to drop a bunch of weight, but that'll be down the road.
 

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Nice exhaust can and fab work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmmm...ran into a little interference issue with my new rearsets. Has anyone had success bending a lever? I'm thinking about taking a torch to it to bend it out past the kick start lever.
 

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You CAN bend an aluminum lever...ONCE.... I would attempt to bend it cold and use the heating to "stress-relieve" the metal, although I can't say that's the best way in this/your case...
...Actually, I'd probably just fab one up out of steel.....
Although this may sound like an effort at humor,.... REAL RACERS have neither kickers or e-starts.....
Take them both off and bump-start it (LeMans style).... No more clearance problem.... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
66Sprint said:
Take them both off and bump-start it (LeMans style).... No more clearance problem.... ;)
Hah, good thing I'm not a real racer :p My friend suggests this all the time, but he rides mopeds, so I don't take him too seriously. :lol:

I'm a little afraid of snapping it, but they bend all the time in low-sides so I don't see why I couldn't get it out a bit. It's either that or use a longer stud with a spacer, but I'd rather not have the peg sticking out 10-15mm farther either...my friend tried to bend his cast aluminum lever back cold after a crash and snapped it, so I think some heat would be a good thing.

I'm also going to have to cut the peg return spring so I can fold it up out of the way to kick start it, or make a wire loop I can hook it on. That's not as big of a deal as not being able to hit the brake pedal with my foot, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Short break while mom was in town visiting for my birthday, back to the bike work!

Turns out with a torch and a couple feet of extra pipe you can put a nice bend in a lever:

The pad will be clear of the kick starter now. Some rearset parts cleaned up and primed

Hopefully a complete assembly once I get ahold of some aluminum colored paint for them. Everything else on the bike is black and I like the aluminum look for the pegs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well I got the lever on where I wanted it, too bad it kinda hits the kick starter if you kick all the way through it :oops: I guess I'll shim it in a bit now so I can run it and come up with a permanent solution later. The bike is really close to running and I don't want to hold up for a brake lever. I pulled the can for the first start to blow all the metal bits and goo out instead of clogging up the baffles with it.
 

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Im really impressed with the headers and a good looking complete system, in stainless no more replacement issues.
Shame about the lever interference, I guess you dont have an electric start?.
Mind you I always kick start the Bomber, it just feels better. (maybe I think it looks better too :cool: ............ Oh vanity :oops: ) :lol: :lol:
 
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