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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my carbs were leaking, fouled plugs, and rough idle. I was informed that my floats were probably stuck so I took out the carbs and cleaned them out. Carbs are now assembled back and the bike starts and no leak so far but it idles high at about 3000rpm. I attempted to adjust the idle screw but it didn't do anything. Any thoughts? Would adjusting the mixture screw and then synchronizing the carbs fix the problem. Thoughts and ideas are greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
HerrDeacon said:
Did you check to make sure your throttle cable wasn't caught up or anything. May have gotten stuck on something when you put the carbs back on.
I haven't checked that yet but will do. Thanks.
 

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Was the bike running before you fixed the leaky carbs? Was the idle high from day one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
leethal said:
Was the bike running before you fixed the leaky carbs? Was the idle high from day one?
Yes the bike was running before the issue. Although I would always end up with a foul plug and then the idle would get rough. Loss of power and backfires.

Thanks for all the recommendations. I will get back to you all. Hopefully it will be resolved this weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
66Sprint said:
Here's what to do...in order...
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=925
Thanks for the great information. I've done steps 1, 2 and 5 (only because i initially thought I had a carb issue as I posted). Before I move on, it seems that when I close the throttle all the way (with my hand forcing the throttle grip to close as much as possible) I seem to get it back to normal idle to about 12-1500 rpm. But then when I let go of the grip it jumps back up to 3000. It almost seems like the valve doesnt close all the way when I let go of the throttle grip. Can I simply adjust the throttle cables to fix this issue or is it something more complicated? I apologize for the lame questions. Yes I am a newb and barely mechanical....but I'm learning. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
 

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Sensei
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Yes, from your discription, you need to add some slack to the "pull" cable...tension to the "push" (or both the above)... Cable adjustment SHOULD cure it..... :D Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
66Sprint said:
Yes, from your discription, you need to add some slack to the "pull" cable...tension to the "push" (or both the above)... Cable adjustment SHOULD cure it..... :D Steve
Okay..I'm getting a bit frustrated. I adusted the cables so there was less free play. However, the idle didn't change...it was still idling at about 3100 rpm. I read several manuals and it states that adjusting the throttle stop screw may fix rough idles. So I guess my next step is to move the tank so I can get into this screw and adjust it. Does that sound right or am I way off? I also read on this forum that I might have an air leak which might cause the high idle. One of my rubber boot carb insulator is a little cracked...could that be a cause?

I apologize for asking such lame questions. I'm getting frustrated but I'm trying to be patient and wrench this baby of mine myself. I have to admit..I've thought about calling the shop and dropping it of so I can ride.

I'm greatfull for any assistance. Thanks.
 

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While the bike is running squirt some carb/choke cleaner or WD40 around the carb boots and if your idle changes then you have an air leak. Some people use a little handheld propane torch with the gas just barely turned on and let it flow around the carb boot to check for leaks. Do it whatever way works for you.. Just be SUPER careful if you decide to use the propane method..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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You want MORE free-play, NOT less....And yes, a cracked boot could be a cause....
 
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