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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. I need to replace the right control switch on my 74 CL360 and ebay isn't yielding anything at the moment. There is a switch from a 70 CB350 that looks like it might work, but instead of the ON OFF slide switch for the headlights, it has the red dot-L-H. It seems like I could just run the L and H wires to the corresponding ON and OFF wires and it should work, but I don't want to waste another week and more money buying the switch only to find out that the wiring is totally different or the handlebar diameter is different. Can anyone confirm whether the switch will work or not?


Short of that switch, I am kind of stumped. What have others done? I really don't want to deal with reworking the brake handle to make it separate or the mirror mount for that matter. I can, however, live without the electric start button since I am deleting the E start.



Thanks for whatever help you can provide!


Cheers,
Logan
 

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not sure if this will help but i can tell you what wires i have comming out of my cl350 switch
[attachment=0:3p8zcozy]IMG_0610.JPG[/attachment:3p8zcozy]

going off memory, black is power, yellow goes to the alternator as does the white one, the white with the black sharpie goes to low beam, blue to high beam. i'm not completely sure but i think the brown/white or the yellow/red goes to the either the rear running light and the other the starter.

This switch was made with alternator wires because they were not meant to run with the lights on all the time and you could switch them off which is why there might be an extra two wires.

Good luck.
Tom
 

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E turd said:
Hi guys. I need to replace the right control switch on my 74 CL360 and ebay isn't yielding anything at the moment. There is a switch from a 70 CB350 that looks like it might work, but instead of the ON OFF slide switch for the headlights, it has the red dot-L-H. It seems like I could just run the L and H wires to the corresponding ON and OFF wires and it should work, but I don't want to waste another week and more money buying the switch only to find out that the wiring is totally different or the handlebar diameter is different. Can anyone confirm whether the switch will work or not?
Logan

It will work ok - wire colors are all the same, handlebar diameters are all the same.
Brown/white is the indicator lights, yellow/red is the starter button. Blue wire and white wire are the headlamp, black/white exits the kill switch and goes to the coils, etc. - black is hot, there may ne more than one to the switch, they're equivalent.

If you connect the yellow and white/yellow wires together as they exit the main harness (in the headlight shell), you can ignore any yellow wires to the switch. You'll see that the connectors are correct to allow this.
 

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Hooking those wires togeather will allow the system to charge all the time also. that is the manual bridge that should of been there in the first place. Also you could split off the connection and run the headlight all the time on ac current.. A bulb is a filter it doesn't care whether its ac or dc. Plus no battery drain while you run the headlight.
 

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While the hedlight will NOT care if it's AC or DC, you MUST run TWO wires (separate from any DC voltage if you run it AC)....... AC has no ground, so interconnecting through the DC ground would just short out half the AC pulses and possibly do some damage to the charging system.....
 

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It works in a delta delta setup not a delta y. Its like marine electric there are no neutrals. ground is ground. your ac generator has no neutral in the windings. your combining the two wires to tap a second set of winding for more amperage. Its like moving the taps on a transformer to get a diffrent voltage, except your increasing the amperage. Your battery charges off of the rectifier which converts ac power to dc power,connecting the wires in the switch is to tap the full charge circuit. Sorry i wire barges and towboats, as i know the system sounds odd its the way it has been done for decades. http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/wiring350K4.. check out this site for the interactive wiring diagram.
 

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I have no conception of what you apparently are trying to say..... Although I agree with your reference to similarity to transformer windings and more windings=more output. (I always understood it was voltage that was from the number of turns, while amperage is a factor of wire size as well)

AC voltage output has a negative and a positive (they just constantly reverse at the CPS/Hertz of the system.)
IF they are connected in common with a DC power source (the battery), every pulse that is opposite of the DC directionality essentially shorts-out the battery power for that "moment".....Since the "directionality" reverses every other pulse, HALF of the output is then "wasted' by being shorted out, and becomes heat...
A rectifier inserted between the AC and DC re-directs the "opposite" pulses, allowing flow only to the directionally correct terminals of the battery (relative to the directionality of that pulse), so it charges the battery........
Why you would wire the system to "waste" half of its output when it is nominal at best is beyond me.......
However, if you run TWO completely separate wires from the AC output to the lighting (no grounds/common wiring to chassis or any DC circuit) the lights work without any "shorting of half the pulses" (of course, you do have to use higher voltage lighting as the output runs at least 25VAC and usually 50VAC to 60VAC at higher revs, and it is unregulated)
Most of the reason that DC lighting is used is that it provides a relatively stable amount of light without flickering or dimming at lower revs. (SAFETY)......


NOW, Back to the question....YES, the 350 switch can be wired in to function properly.....
 

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True the lower revs flicker, but the yellow and white yellow leads come directly off of the alternator. the produce 6v ac to the light. There is no neutral needed. ground yes. Its look at how a vespa works, the run on ac power. The only downfall of the system is low lights at idle, hence the 2 wire setup, 3000 rpm bright as hell. Also the pink lead goes directly to the rectifier, to get full current charge the yellow and white yellow must be connected, and its wasted generated electricity that i put to good use. PLUS my battery always has a max charge, but i am also using a sealed lead acid battery. Ive used this system on a buddies cb450, and we run a 2.3 amp hour battery. Now there is no starter on the bike and the bike only runs on the battery at idle, it bypasses the battery above 2000rpm and comes directly off the rectifier.The cb350 and 450 and 500's all run this way. go to pipeburn.com and look for a silver and black cb450 bobber with a white seat. pretty neat little project, plus we kept the factory harness in place. Now this setup isn't for everyone, but if you want to eliminate the controls on the bars its the way to go.
 

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And you are correct in the lighting you have to tap the high beam of a standard light or either of a halogen, I read 6 volts ac a 6000 rpm, and 6 amps.I am using both wires from the alternator, each one supplies equal voltage. Sorry I do better at talking and not typing my thoughts. my typing thoughts are random. add haha.
 

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" the produce 6v ac to the light."....... However, My lighting is ALL 12V......, And the yellow and white with yellow stripe are the same "leg" of the output...Pink is the other (common) "leg" for both sets of windings......Apparently, you are tapping the stray current across all the coils generated by the magnetic flux during field (polarity) reversal.... Interesting.......BUT, Hondas run on DC, not AC voltage....They aren't (thankfully) Vespas....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
leethal said:
Logan, if and when you replace the switchblock, can I buy your old one?

I'm not sure you'd want it, but yeah. You can have it for the cost of shipping if you like.


To all the other guys, thanks very much! I have been having a really hard time finding the info I need since I bought the bike in regards to updating and retrofitting parts. If it wasn't for the help you guys are giving, I'd be effed!
 

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Not sure how our discussion about AC vs Dc is helping, but if you get the 350 switch, I'll be happy to list the connections for the cross-over.... Most are just color to color, but if your old starter button turned off the headlight while the starter rolls over, there are a few changes you MUST make both at the switch unit and at the solenoid.......
let us know..... Steve
 
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