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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I’m new to these forums so forgive me if this is the wrong thread, but I thought it could be covered in many, so I chose engine problems.

I have a 74 CL 360 that I recently found in pretty rough shape. Got it running and driving, but now I’m working on getting it fine tuned. I have benched synced the carbs, did the cam chain, and the valves. I just put a new set of points in and I am fairly confident that I got the timing right, but when I try to start the bike up, the bike will rev high, come to a low idle and then quit. I pulled the plugs out and they are both wet with gas. Could this be a timing issue that I messed up?

Also my battery isn’t fully charged, it’s right around 10-11. I’m working on it in a cold barn so my battery has been dying quickly. But the bike has kickstarted with this much charge before and ran fine.
 

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Bench sync on the carbs is just to get you in the ball park to run, you have to correctly balance them with a manometer. The high/low rev is a sign of an imbalance. 360s also like their batteries charged fully to run well, when its idling or under about 2500 RPM the engine is running off the battery. Probably the reason for your wet plugs, there's not enough juice to properly fire the plugs. Wet plugs can also be from carbs that are set up incorrectly.

Welcome to the forums BTW, we like newbies to post up in intro section when you get a chance, we like our bike pics too. :D
 

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welcome...

I don't have your model bike, own a 450 but I can safely state that wet plugs also mean incorrect carb float heights. check the float heights and reinstall. see how that goes.
if no dice, go thru the ignition timing procedure once more. wet plugs are also indicative of not being able to fire correctly. Make sure all carb jets and passages are clean.

erratic idle can def. be due to an air leak. are you familiar with how to check those? You're in good hands here :)
 

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Hey all. I’m new to these forums so forgive me if this is the wrong thread...
Welcome to the forums BTW, we like newbies to post up in intro section when you get a chance, we like our bike pics too. :D
Yes steamwilliams, welcome - and as frogman mentioned, we like introductions so we can get to know you and your bike to better help as questions arise later. Please take a look at the link below and post in the Member Introduction area - and of course, follow that up with pictures of the machine in question :D

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/23-member-introductions/121120-critical-read-before-posting.html
 

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Hey all. I’m new to these forums so forgive me if this is the wrong thread, but I thought it could be covered in many, so I chose engine problems.

I have a 74 CL 360 that I recently found in pretty rough shape. Got it running and driving, but now I’m working on getting it fine tuned. I have benched synced the carbs, did the cam chain, and the valves. I just put a new set of points in and I am fairly confident that I got the timing right, but when I try to start the bike up, the bike will rev high, come to a low idle and then quit. I pulled the plugs out and they are both wet with gas. Could this be a timing issue that I messed up?

Also my battery isn’t fully charged, it’s right around 10-11. I’m working on it in a cold barn so my battery has been dying quickly. But the bike has kickstarted with this much charge before and ran fine.
It sounds like there is more than one thing wrong. If the engine races at high speed and will not idle, that would make me thing there are air leaks in the carburetors. This would be around the mount boots or throttle shaft seals. A fully charged battery is required for the ignition system to work at idle. The ignition system requires a set amount of current to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am running pod filters that are connected to the stock filter tubes. I basically took the stock filters off but kept the offset part of the tube, then put pods on those. How would I check for an air leak? It seems to be sealed well. It ran well with them on before too. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I recently set the float heights. I had to buy one new float needle so I installed that as well. I set the float height at 18.5 on each side. After other forums I read that seemed to be the best height. What height would you set them at? Thanks
 

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The air leak wouldn't be between the filter and the carb, but between the carb and the engine. OR in the butterfly valves of the carb itself. With the engine running, try to spray some carb or brake cleaner through a straw at the intake boot of each carb (rubber connection between the carb and engine). Then spray places on both sides of the carb where the throttle arm spins and goes through the carb. If the engine changes noticeably after you spray it, you have an air leak. racing idle can also be cause by carb sync issues.

I'd also try to put the battery on a charger for a bit before trying to start it. to see if that helps.
Stephen


I am running pod filters that are connected to the stock filter tubes. I basically took the stock filters off but kept the offset part of the tube, then put pods on those. How would I check for an air leak? It seems to be sealed well. It ran well with them on before too. Thanks!
 

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Welcome, and good luck with this bike.

A float height of 18.5mm is per the manual, so nice work, so long as that's from when the valve just closes.

I second inspecting all of the noted areas (vacuum sync those carbs (plenty of resources on how, even in the manual ;-) ). The high revs definitely sound like an air leak. There are a lot of areas to think about with an old bike that has sat. Sometimes the seals on the butterfly arm need a little oil (they are felt and under a little knock out, or, if you have the carbs off you can tilt them 90 and squirt a dab, I use a small syringe and let gravity do the work). As they dry they can allow air in. Also, check the boots on the manifold; are they flexible rubber or rock hard. I can't recommend boots from JBM Industries more adamantly.

The wet plug might mean that your problem is electrical/ignition related. Wet plugs (with gas only) are a sign that they aren't actually firing. Pull one and ground it to the fin of the head while plugged in, see if it's sparking. I'd check the coils. Also, if you just replaced the points, check the condensers (on the coils).

I am concerned that you are running the pods...usually that requires re-jetting (as would running various aftermarket exhausts). If you have the OEM filters I'd put them on to eliminate a variable until it's figured out.

Pictures are helpful, and fun to look at. Videos get extra credit.
 
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