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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone !

Getting ready to start my new adventure :)
I thought I would share it with Vintage Honda enthusiastic people !!
I've learned and enjoyed so much reading project logs from you guys so,
this is THE bike here...



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I will log some pictures and impressions, little by little, as the project progresses.
I've got a second exact same bike, so 2 full engines to work with :)
Everything is apart now.





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So.... I will do a bunch of cleaning, bead blasting,
inspecting and measuring parts specs....
Selecting and preparing the cylinder jug for over-sizing to 64.5mm.
(The bikes have been sitting outside for like 30+ years.
The engines were way stuck and the cylinder walls are pretty rusted...)



Pretty much all the obvious parts I'll need are on their way
(carb rebuild kit, bearings, seals, coils & points, and so on....)



My last rebuild went WAY too fast so I will go slowly on that one
unless my shop will turn into a bike warehouse and I won't be able
to move and actually work !!!
I will actually build a secondary shop/building to address
that "soon to be" obvious concern !!
Here is a picture and a link to a video of that last project... 73' CB450


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Along the way I will need help/recommendations concerning 1 thing... (at least !!!!!)

- I would like to try to have it running without a battery because there will be no flashers, lights, horn etc etc.... Only the ignition system... I started to read
about it and all I could figure is that I will probably need to replace the battery with a capacitor or something but that's all...
If some of you have successfully done that I'll be very happy to hear from you :)



GAME ON !!!




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Discussion Starter #3
Did a bunch of cleaning lately and painted a few elements related to the front and rear end....

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I like to start with having a frame, 2 wheels and suspension , a bench and a fuel tank put together first as it motivates me and looks nice every time I enter my garage... Im gonna get all my parts beginning of march and will reach that point soon after;)
Then it will be time to work on the engine !!

Lastly, I’ve decided to go more agressive with the tires and go for a trail and dirt road type bike !!

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Shinko SR241 :)

The next post will contain a very nice picture showing where Im heading I believe !!!
 

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I’ll walk past my garage door and open it just to take a quick looksy at my projects too......good motivation for sure.


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Discussion Starter #5
Got the parts last weekend !!!
Front and Rear end pretty much sorted. Good progress and feels nice to have something that looks more of a motorcycle than a bunch of parts spread everywhere !!! Time to clean and work the engine :)
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Discussion Starter #6
One thing I will never regret buying is my bead blasting unit !!!!!

BEFORE

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AFTER

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Unfortunately the cylinder rebore will have to wait as the machine shop is closed due to COVID-19 :(
Next is to paint the engine :)

Then cleaning the carbs.... I just bought a 30L ultrasonic cleaner and can't wait to try it !!!
It apparently does wonders !!!

Also working on rebuilding the air cleaners replacing the stock cardboard filters with UNI filter foam...
I will post a few pics... There is a good thread on that somewhere online and it really works well IMO.

Stay Healthy :)
 

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Are you going to use the stock suspension? If it’s for off road imo I would source longer forks and play with internals and rear shocks to get a better ride.


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What is the machine shop that you're using to get your cylinders rebored? I'm in the process of cleaning all my engine parts and am looking for a shop that does nice cylinder/head work. Thanks, also bead blasting looks amazing!
 

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What is the machine shop that you're using to get your cylinders rebored? I'm in the process of cleaning all my engine parts and am looking for a shop that does nice cylinder/head work. Thanks, also bead blasting looks amazing!
Please check your Conversations (private messages) as below
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What is the machine shop that you're using to get your cylinders rebored? I'm in the process of cleaning all my engine parts and am looking for a shop that does nice cylinder/head work. Thanks, also bead blasting looks amazing!
Almost any decent machine shop can bore your cylinders as long as their machine can do 2" bores.
The breathing and production of power is directly affected by the valve job and cylinder head work. I had Chris do my CL350 head, new bronze valve guides/ SS exhaust valves/ stock intakes cleaned up/Viton valve seals and the valve seat grind done with a Serdi. Schumann Motor Works Note that he is not cheap but he's really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Are you going to use the stock suspension? If it’s for off road imo I would source longer forks and play with internals and rear shocks to get a better ride.


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You are totally right !
But Im actually intending to ride on hard packed dirt roads more than anywhere.. Light off-roading !!
Near where I live there is a big sector with this type of roads :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What is the machine shop that you're using to get your cylinders rebored? I'm in the process of cleaning all my engine parts and am looking for a shop that does nice cylinder/head work. Thanks, also bead blasting looks amazing!
The machine shop I go to is up here in Canada... You will probably be able to find one that’s closer to you ;)
Let me know how much you end up paying for both cylinders I’d be curious to compare the prices with a machine shop in the US !!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Replaced the air cleaner’s filter with some Uni foam....

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Here is the thread I mentioned earlier :

I added some rubber bands to keep the foam in place but I almost believe they are not necessary... if you cut the foam just wide enough so that it compresses On installation, it really snugs in !

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Get a really beat up front fender off ebay and at least use the Mounting bracket. That Bracket is the Front Fork Brace.
Riding Off Road on ANY surface hard packed dirt or not will torque & twist the fork tubes more than you would think.

Even people who go the cafe route for street use find that if they don't have that brace it can get really twitchy in the curves.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Get a really beat up front fender off ebay and at least use the Mounting bracket. That Bracket is the Front Fork Brace.
Riding Off Road on ANY surface hard packed dirt or not will torque & twist the fork tubes more than you would think.

Even people who go the cafe route for street use find that if they don't have that brace it can get really twitchy in the curves.
Oh Man !!
Thanks for the Heads-up :)
I would not have thought of that...
I do have the front fender !!

Have you ever done it on one of your bikes by any chance ? Any picture ;)

Thanks again.. your comment is highly appreciated :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oil pump question !!!

I figured it would be nice to make sure the oil pump was working properly...
Is there any test that I can do (that you guys know of) other than just measuring the plunger's diameter etc.
All is within specs and the plunger fits real nice in the cylinder...

I tried submerging the bottom part of the pump in oil and manually activate the plunger but no oil gets sucked up...
The bottom steel ball is moving freely.
If I prime the pump, manually activate the plunger, the oil exits where it should...

Is my test improper because I can't recreate the plunger in/out fast enough like the engine does ??

Thanks everyone
 

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If the pump parts are in spec then it's virtually guaranteed to work correctly - the fact that you know the check ball is moving freely is about the only other thing that matters. It's a very simple design and though not the most efficient pump in the world, they rarely don't work properly. Once the engine is fully assembled, you can check the oil flow at this location when it's running - just have a rag handy as it can squirt out and make a mess
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If the pump parts are in spec then it's virtually guaranteed to work correctly - the fact that you know the check ball is moving freely is about the only other thing that matters. It's a very simple design and though not the most efficient pump in the world, they rarely don't work properly. Once the engine is fully assembled, you can check the oil flow at this location when it's running - just have a rag handy as it can squirt out and make a mess
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Thank you very much Tom !!
Makes a lot of sense...
I will definitely check the witness bolt on start-up !!

May I ask another question....

Do you happen to know what those are for and if it is a big deal if one of them is broken off ??? Im sure they are there for something but I can’t figure ? Maybe catching some oil ??

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Thanks a thousand times...
I Never stop learning !!
Simon
 

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Simon, I believe they are for the baffling function of the plate but I never really completely understood the design either. I can't say for sure, but I suspect it would be okay without one of them. Worst that could possibly happen is a bit more oil vapor in the usual blow-by gases that come out of the breather tube
 
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