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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally figured out my electrical issue and got the old gal humming, but my left cylinder seems to be running hotter than the right. They both get hot, but the right is slightly cooler than the left. I only have a muffler on the left right now as my new set is in the mail. Is there any troubleshooting I can do before I get my mufflers? Right one pops a bit on throttle and veeery little white smoke out the left. Left carb is dripping gas out the overflow a bit nothing from the right, but it was sitting on the stand tipped to the left a bit. Timings done, carbs are synced and cleaned, battery is full charge. Forgive me if theres info I'm not providing, I'm new to this and trying to learn by trial error and hondatwins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
From what I've been reading it sounds like I need to redo the timing, but still interested to hear what everyone has to say. I was hoping to save some cash and not have to buy an impact driver, those screws are a pain to get off.
 

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I’d say you’ll definitely need to have them in similar states before comparing...the right will be under a lot less back pressure with no muffler, and these bikes like back pressure (usual recommendation is that the exhausts should extend past the rear axle to avoid having to re-jet).

Otherwise, the Harbor Freight impact is serviceable and like $9 :) you’ll definitely get your money’s worth with it, it’s a must have if you still have crusty JIS screws (you can get a JIS bit for the driver if you intend to reuse them and don’t want to munge the heads with a Phillips).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I'll wait and give it a shot when they come in. It only backfires when the bike has been running a bit, runs smooth when cold. Left carb still drips out of the overflow when gas is off too but I think I just have a janky petcock.
 

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Thanks, I'll wait and give it a shot when they come in. It only backfires when the bike has been running a bit, runs smooth when cold. Left carb still drips out of the overflow when gas is off too but I think I just have a janky petcock.
No that is your float level, floats, overflow tube issue. If its working right you can leave the gas on and it won't over flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm guessing that means they're set too high?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The carbs themselves were bench synced and then I synced the throttle cables so both lift at the exact same moment. Is there another part of syncing I'd be missing? I've been learning from Youtube videos and trial and error thus far, so the more advice the better. I ordered a new float valve for the left carb and my muffler clamps will be in this weekend, so I'm hoping just getting the same muffler on both pipes will help a bit and clearing out the leaking left carb will help, but we'll see. I don't know how off base this is, but if left carb is dribbling gas and my right cylinders pipe is on the top (CL350) it could just be gas dripping on to the pipe and popping. Could also be the the pipe from the right cylinder is longer and I was testing heat near the muffler instead of near the block. Roasted my fingers when I tested it a bit closer to the engine, so maybe I'm paranoid. More to come after I get a chance to tinker a bit. Thanks again everyone!
 

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If your Left Carb is dripping GAS out the Overflow FIX - IT Before you have a fire.

Typically Dripping from the overflow is one of (4) problems:

1 - Floats Height Level Spec set too SHORT - There is an inverse relationship with Float Height Setting Spec and the Level of fuel in the float bowl.
The Floats ride in the bowl UPSIDE DOWN. As they rise and they get closer to the shut off point the level of fuel in the bowl rises.
Also NOTE: there is a Spring Loaded Pin on the Shut Off Needle Valve.
If you hold the float fully Upside Down when setting the weight of the Float will compress the spring and your setting WILL be Off by the travel of the Spring loaded tip. (too much fuel in the bowl)
That is why the manual calls for the float level to be set while holding the carb body on a 45 Degree angle, to prevent that tip from being compressed.
The TANG on the Float should JUST BARELY TOUCH the Tip when measuring.

2 - The Float itself is BAD and Leaking. It sinks and doesn't float.

3 - The Overflow Tube is Cracked.
This is a VERY Common problem on ALL of the 350 Carb Models.
When you have the Float Bowl off Carefully examine the small Brass tube which is the overflow.
The BEST way to check this is to cover the small hole in the top of the tube while spraying carb Cleaner into the exit tube.
If you see spray coming out the side of the tube it is cracked - Fix - it.
They often develop a crack which cause them to drip and leak.
The easy fix is to simply Solder it. No big deal and easy to do.

4 - Lastly the Needle and Seat aren't sealing from wear.
This is the ONLY Brass internal part that wears and needs to be replaced when Rebuilding/Cleaning the carbs.
The Jets and all other Brass parts should be re-used unless found to have been abused by a previous owner (or you if you messed up - it happens).
After market jets and matching internal parts are not always made to correct spec. ( imagine that stuff coming out of china being not quite right?)
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, I just got my new needles valves in this morning, so I'm gonna pop those in sometime this week. While I'm in there I'm just gonna clean the whole thing again too. I'll check for the cracks and good tip on soldering it I probably wouldn't have thought of that. Right cylinder still pops a bit and the pipe is noticeably cooler than the left one, so I'm kind of at a loss with that. The bike itself fires right up the second I hit the starter, so I think it's an airflow issue probably related to my janky airboxes, but that will have to wait longer on account of how expensive those over-engineered wads are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
For posterity's sake I wanted to post the solution to the right cylinder being sucky, it was the timing. I goofed the first time I did it and the left side required adjustment. Carb still leaks after new needle, but at this point I've set the float level, replaced the needle, ensured floats are not sinking and ensured all jets are clear, so it's gotta be the needle seat, I have a new one that I can't get to fit, so I'm gonna apply some grease to the O-ring to see if I can get it in there (visually they look like the same size and I got it off 4 into 1 and they've never done me wrong, so I think grease is the solution). I don't see cracks on the overflow tube, but if this doesn't fix it then it's gotta be that.
 
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