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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Someone here, I think Steve, posted something about tuning up the old Honda's by ear. I would love for you to elaborate on that. I have had some issues with my bike and can seem to get everything in sync. I removed the side cover and loosened the nuts, while the motor was running and the tappet adjustment screw immediately turned on their own and I heard the motor ping. I played with it a little and felt resistance both left and right. I then set it in the middle where I felt no resistance.
Does this sound accurate or should I not be playing these games? My major complaint today is that is starts to sputter when I get it around 5000 rpm's. And I can't figure out why!! :?


Thanks, Matt
 

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NE350 said:
Someone here, I think Steve, posted something about tuning up the old Honda's by ear. I would love for you to elaborate on that. I have had some issues with my bike and can seem to get everything in sync. I removed the side cover and loosened the nuts, while the motor was running and the tappet adjustment screw immediately turned on their own and I heard the motor ping. I played with it a little and felt resistance both left and right. I then set it in the middle where I felt no resistance.
Does this sound accurate or should I not be playing these games? My major complaint today is that is starts to sputter when I get it around 5000 rpm's. And I can't figure out why!! :?
I think the key here is "by ear", not by "feel". When I do mine I listen for the "ticking" to get louder then I tighten it until it just goes away then I back it out until I hear it start to tick again. You should start to hear an increase in RPM as you get to the "sweet spot". It's a subtle change in RPM though.
 

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Wasn't me.... Hondas are specified to have the valves adjusted STONE cold.....
Generally, that means not running......... Not saying it can't be done, just why risk bending/breaking a valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree, hence my post. I didn't want to get into something that could result in a catastrophy. I did tweak the points plate and that made all the difference in the world. Motor seems to be running a lot better now. However I have only gone around the block. After the mufflers come in, I'll try for a bit longer ride.

Matt
 

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so i was reading through posts and i came across this one. i picked up my first bike this summer, a 72 cl350k4, and was dealing with loud tappets and (cam tensioner noise). for several days in a row i was adjusting tappets cold and then running the engine and mostly, all i could hear for a brief while was the cam tensioner, but after a bit, the tappet noise would come back, i'd let the engine cool off overnight and i'd do it again. 4 times this happened and i was getting quite depressed by either my inability to adjust the tappets correctly or the thought that i was adjusting them correctly yet i was to be forever plagued with (what sounds like pebbles bouncing around in my engine) the noisy valves...............so what you're saying is that you're setting them while the engine is running by the noise that they make (click/no-click) as opposed to setting them by feeler gauges(which is a royal pain in the caboose) while cold? not that i'm going to try this, but it is interesting....

thanks
greg
 
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