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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first motorcycle engine rebuild and I'm being as cautious as my mind will allow. I've got several questions and I apologize but I didn't want to make eleventeen different threads.

1. Is it worth upgrading the charging system with an CB200 generator? I will be upgrading to the Charlie's Place electronic ignition and regulator/rectifier
https://www.charlies-place.com/shop...9-cbcl160s-68-73-cbclsl17-and-74-76-cbcl200s/
https://www.charlies-place.com/shop/type-1-regulatorrectifier-applications/
2. I'm replacing the oil pump no matter what so would an CB200 oil pump fit and would it be advantageous to fit one to my engine for better top end oiling
3. How do I gauge the the wear on my clutch discs? They look quite good to me but I have no problem replacing if necessary.
4. Should I replace the rocker arms and valve springs?
5. The rings gapped at .006" which is the minimum allowable. Do the rings on motorcycles typically need no filing or do they come good to go? Not having to file the rings goes against what I've read and seen on YouTube videos. What gives?
6. Is there anything I need to watch out for more so than anything else?
This is the new cam chain tensioner that I got today. Has anyone else used this set?


 

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1 Yes
2 Yes...and Yes.....
3 Measure and compare to specs...then decide.....
4 See response to #3
5 The gaps will enlarge slightly as the rings wear in....
 

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I-Ride-A-ホンダ;1068628 said:
Not having to file the rings goes against what I've read and seen on YouTube videos. What gives?
Be cautious as to the credence you put in just any YouTube video... remember (and not to beat the dead horse, simply just one example), even one major parts supplier in this country who specializes in Honda twins uses very poor techniques to disassemble a DOHC 450 cylinder head in one of their videos - and imagine how many people out there (who somehow haven't found this place yet) have seen that video and have chiseled away at their top end parts, unnecessarily and improperly disassembling in the wrong order. Generally speaking, in my experience, factory rings on factory pistons in the proper sized bore won't need to be modified, and as Steve said, the ring gap will increase as the rings wear in so if they start at the minimum you'll get longer life from them

I-Ride-A-ホンダ;1068628 said:
This is the new cam chain tensioner that I got today. Has anyone else used this set?
I've never used any non-stock cam chain tensioners or rollers, but I like the idea... my only concern might be the center roller hardness on that set constantly in contact with the chain, as opposed to the rubber original - but if the chain is kept tensioned properly at all times, as it should, I can't imagine that causing an issue
 

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I wonder what difference it will make to engine noise, chain running on steel rather than on rubber ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I suspect there will be some increase in chain sounds. It would be interesting to compare to a stock engine
I'm betting it won't be that much of a difference in noise level. I'm getting anxious to find out.

I must say, I'm surprised at how much more money I'm going to have in this bike. Restoration is not inexpensive. From my figures, it's at least $1500. I have my seat being done at https://www.coolretrobikes.com/ just up the road from me in St. Petersburg. Not sure yet how much that's going to cost. I also had to have my candy gold parts repainted. That's $400 for my painter plus $230 for the paint. If the wife finds out....I'll be on the couch for a while. Thankfully, my couch is very comfortable :)
 

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Was just telling my dad last night I wish I had a 200 stator for my 175, a great upgrade for sure

I think the Charlie’s place ignition is ridiculously priced, I put brand new points condenser and genuine Honda coil in mine, cost about $30 for everything and it is dead reliable. The bike was ridden almost daily last year a couple miles from home to my grandmas house plus a few 50-60 mile rides cruising at 50+mph with zero issue. I’m glad I didn’t spend the money.

Also, not sure if your bottom end is together yet but,
Another upgrade to consider if you’re planning on really riding the bike is a 200 5th gear. I really wish I would’ve done it to mine. 5th gear is just a little higher on the 200 and I think it would make cruising at 60 a lot more pleasurable.

I’m really looking forward to seeing your bike completed, and $1500 isn’t bad at all, I have near that in my rider and it’s no beauty queen...
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks guys. I apologize for not being very active in a while. Life.
This post is going to wander a bit but it's all about getting this back together correctly. There will be a question with each pic, thanks in advance.
Did I install this seal backwards?
20191106_041750.jpg
Is the tach seal in correctly?
20191106_041141.jpg
I've decided to stay OEM with the ignition. Is there a source for the breaker wire?
20191106_041534.jpg
The CB200 stator I purchased did not come with and end on the wire for the neutral safety switch. I have these Accel spark plug wire pliers with interchangeable jaws. I was wondering if vintgeconnections.com may have a solution. I don't want to pay $35 for a tool I'll use once.
20191104_030132.jpg 20191104_030527.jpg 20191104_030451.jpg
Bought another one a while back, work commencing on it as well....I have a problem
20190412_124800.jpg
20191104_024442.jpg
 

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Can't really see the tach seal clearly enough to be sure, but if you put it in the way the cam seal is... then they're both backwards. The spring-encircled lip on the seal always goes inward (even on the tach seal which doesn't have a spring, IIRC). Sometimes you can find a NOS points plate complete with wiring, but otherwise you probably won't find a replacement factory wire with sheath... I bought a NOS plate with points and wires because all my parts were trashed, but it's usually pricey. When the sheath is dirty, darkened with age or oil-soaked, it detracts from the look of the clean engine for sure. Check with Sonreir (Vintage Connections) to see what he has for the stator situation, you know he'll help out. As for your problem... the only limitation with your problem is money :lol:

Just checked cmsnl.com, no part number for the points wire separately
 

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Some pics of the tacho oil assembly:

DSCF2825.jpg DSCF2824.jpg

DSCF2823.jpg DSCF2820.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you gentlemen. I've flipped both seals over and am now waiting on my most recent DS order. They seem like they've really stepped up their game recently as far as parts availability. It was quite a significant and thorough list and there were only a couple things they didn't have in stock. Little things but things nonetheless. FlEaBay to the rescue once again.

Starting to think about getting the CB350 wiring harness from Sonreir. It's relatively inexpensive and he says with minor mods, it will fit my bike just fine. I bought a plug for my 86 Nighthawk from him and although it wasn't the OEM black, it fit the turn signal flasher unit perfectly. I mean SPOT on. Can't wait to fit the new harness. Still so much to do. I will update soon when I get the engine in the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I remember taking bolts out of the bottom of the fork tubes but I seem to have misplaced them s of right now. But I can't even find a fiche depicting said bolt. Would someone help me out with a part number? I don't see what I need in the hardware I have remaining.
303943
 

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I remember taking bolts out of the bottom of the fork tubes but I seem to have misplaced them s of right now. But I can't even find a fiche depicting said bolt. Would someone help me out with a part number? I don't see what I need in the hardware I have remaining.
If you mean the drain bolts, they're just short 6mm with copper washers to seal the fluid. #32 and 28
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not #28 or #32, the bolts that go in the very bottom. I may be remembering incorrectly that I took them out of there. My memory isn't what it used to be but there's a threaded hole on each of them.
 

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Up through the bottom, as in inside the fork itself? Like allen bolts? The fiche doesn't show them to be assembled with an allen bolt into the damper rod bottom like some of the others
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes. I'm gonna have to take it back apart I guess and figure out why I'm thinking what I'm thinking.
 

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There IS a damping rod/tube that is held by a #3 (I think) JIS cross head screw. (That you aren't supposed to remove)......
Presumably, it would have a copper sealing washer as well......The damping rod comes installed as part of the fork slider (lower leg) and is a real bear to reinstall should you accidentally remove the retaining screw.....A hardwood dowel or broom handle comes in handy here, especially if you add a rubber crutch tip to help its grip on the damper .......
The bad news is that the fork must be disassembled (tube pulled out) for the damper reinstall.....
You may phone.......
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oops. Gimme a break guys and gals ;), I was in total tear down mode three years ago it would seem. Any idea on the length? Does anyone have a fork laying around to take a look/see?
 
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