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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought two '71 CL's last February and chose one to focus on for my first total rebuild project.
Here's what I started out with.
[attachment=2:321s9g2d]CL175 249_resize.jpg[/attachment:321s9g2d]

[attachment=1:321s9g2d]CL175 250_resize.jpg[/attachment:321s9g2d]

[attachment=0:321s9g2d]Frame_resize.jpg[/attachment:321s9g2d]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some progress photos:

[attachment=3:2kjgm78q]Assembly 061_resize.jpg[/attachment:2kjgm78q]

[attachment=2:2kjgm78q]Assembly 074_resize.jpg[/attachment:2kjgm78q]

[attachment=1:2kjgm78q]Assembly 083_resize.jpg[/attachment:2kjgm78q]

[attachment=0:2kjgm78q]Assembly 087_resize.jpg[/attachment:2kjgm78q]
 

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Sensei
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Beautiful work.... I'm working on a 71 as well, but I'm installing a "sloper" engine for a more "vintage" look..... I fabricated a new cover for the damper shock, and can post plans and text, and pix if you'd like..... Here's mine in an early mock-up....


Great minds DO think alike!.... :lol: Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Steve. I think I saw your post about the damper cover on the old twins site. I have another damper with the original rubber sleeve waiting for final assembly on this bike.

Tom
 

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Sensei
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Tom...Two questions..... What kind of coil is that? (brand and part# please,and where you got them if possible) ....
And, what bike (model and year) are those dampers you have originally from?....(mine is from a CL77)....
Thanks, Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
66Sprint said:
Tom...Two questions..... What kind of coil is that?(brand and part# please) ....
And, what bike (model and year) are those dampers originally from?....
Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve,
The coil is an Accel Super Coil, p/n 140403S for 2 cylinder motorcycles, non-CDI systems. I mounted one in my CB160 a few years ago.
The steering damper shown in the photo came of a '71 SL350 and the other was off a CB350. I had a machine shop fabricate a "sacrificial" mounting bracket which was an exact copy of the original except for one oversized hole to pass the engine mounting bolt through. I then drilled a new hole through the frame for the front mount of the bracket between the ignition switch mount points and the bracket is raised enough via the pegs to straddle those switch bolts. On the switch side, I doubled up some rubber grommets on the switch bracket to straddle the damper mounting bolts -- make sense?
[attachment=2:23jcettg]CL175 243_resize.jpg[/attachment:23jcettg]

I also had to drill a new forward mounting hole for the coil and raise it about 1/4" to 1/2", otherwise, the lower edge of the coil was too close to the damper bracket to be comfortable with; there is plenty of clearance now to not worry about the bracket wearing through the plastic of the coil.

[attachment=0:23jcettg]Assembly 027_resize.jpg[/attachment:23jcettg]
 

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Sensei
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Thanks Tom.... I had to make a sub-bracket to get my damper to use full travel (mine is on the front lower tree.....Your assembly looks somewhat "cleaner", so I was curious....

Two more questions.....Shouldn't the front mount be UNDER the lower tree?....
AND, how about a pic of the 160?...... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
66Sprint said:
....

Two more questions.....Shouldn't the front mount be UNDER the lower tree?....
AND, how about a pic of the 160?...... Steve
Steve,
When I removed it from the SL350 (I hope I identified it as an SL...) it was on top of the lower triple clamp -- It fortunately lines up and hits almost max travel in both directions. I forgot to mention, I had to grind down the lock mechanism tab by about 3/8ths" to get full left rudder.

JRK5892, Thanks I hope it all comes together nicely!

JohnnyC14, Thanks!
The garage floor epoxy is THE WAY TO GO. When the weather gets warmer, anyone who has the time and ability to do the Rustoleum epoxy (don't put the terazzo flakes down) will absolutely love it. About $60 for a double size garage. I did mine with 1 gallon of epoxy/resin.
Fluid spills, oil, whatever, will wipe right up with no residue or stain. A clean garage/shop is a happy shop! (no affiliation with Rustoleum)
I used self levelling stuff (can't recall the name right now) for the expansion joints for a super clean look that you lay down with a caulk gun.





And for the 160, she's rough, but mostly original, rideable and gets lots of lookie-lou's. What you see is a 17 year olds attempt at coolifying it with some krylon on the fenders (that was almost 30 year ago-- it has 5k on the odometer)
[attachment=1:3e9of1ub]photo 014_resize.jpg[/attachment:3e9of1ub]

[attachment=0:3e9of1ub]CL175 092_resize.jpg[/attachment:3e9of1ub]
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
Say, that's a clean looking XR back there... Nice to have another dual sport guy around.

GB :mrgreen:

I love my dual sport as well, here's my DRZ at the top of Deadmans pass in the Crowsnest Pass of the Canadian Rockies last summer.

 

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Tom:
I'm also in the beginning stages of restoring the same exact bike- only mine's a stratos blue 1971 CL175K5.
I hope mine turns out as nicely as yours! Two quick questions for you:

1.) What tires are you using and where'd you find them? With those 1.85" X 18" rims, it's tough finding 2.75" and 3.25" original widths. Cheng Shin is no longer available. Seems like the best possibility these days are "King's Tires" that I was referred to- is that what you have?
2.) Shocks- the Red Wings come to mind right away, but they're meant for 350's and larger models. We need 12" lengths, and those are 13". Do they work anyway, and is that the only way to go? Hagon in the UK has nothing close, and I'm not sure what else is out there with clevis mount bottoms in shorter lengths.
Thanks for any advice!
 

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Sandman...
You might look into the IRC brand "ZAP" tires.... Inexpensive, and they look decent (although a modern tread design).... Think the 2.50 x 18 in pic was $28.....

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
sandman said:
Tom:
I'm also in the beginning stages of restoring the same exact bike- only mine's a stratos blue 1971 CL175K5.
I hope mine turns out as nicely as yours! Two quick questions for you:

1.) What tires are you using and where'd you find them? With those 1.85" X 18" rims, it's tough finding 2.75" and 3.25" original widths. Cheng Shin is no longer available. Seems like the best possibility these days are "King's Tires" that I was referred to- is that what you have?
2.) Shocks- the Red Wings come to mind right away, but they're meant for 350's and larger models. We need 12" lengths, and those are 13". Do they work anyway, and is that the only way to go? Hagon in the UK has nothing close, and I'm not sure what else is out there with clevis mount bottoms in shorter lengths.
Thanks for any advice!

Hey Sandman,
Sorry about the late response to your questions.
Regarding question #1 on tires, I bought two Avon Roadrider series tires in 100/90-18 for the rear and a 90/90-18 for the front. The rear is going to be close with the brake stay but I think it will work. The front tire will not fit within the span of the fork brace/fender and rubbed just enough to force me to buy a Cheng Shin 80/100-18 HiMax (looks like the old Metzeler's)
#2 Shocks. I bought the Red Wings on EPray about 7 months ago. With the new lower shock bushings that had to be pressed in, I also had to drill the inner sleeve to accept the larger bolt for the lower clevis on the shock. I hope the rum wasn't a factor in centering the drill but it came together nicely. I think the overall length was maybe 1/2 inch more than the stock shocks and the diameter is larger as well. I worry about the muffler fitting around the shock but will have to address that when I get to that point.

Speaking of mufflers/pipes...
Does anyone have a line on some short (<15 inch) reverse cone megaphones that can be adapted (welded) to some scrambler headers? My alter ego wants a second exhaust system that resembles what you'd see on something like a XS650 street tracker or BSA/
Triumph flat tracker. I've seen the shorty's at J.C. Whitney and other places for about $50-$60 but am looking for something a little shorter and not as fat.

Something like this:
 

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