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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello hondatwins community,

I recently rebuilt and adjusted my clutch mechanism with a new cable using the common motor video linked below as a guide. I followed every instruction to a T and have attempted to fix this issue several times but now I am having immense difficulty shifting gears, it appears the clutch is not fully engaging even though I haven't heard any "pops" like the mechanism is coming out of place. Furthermore, while my bike is firing up it revs up to 3000 rpms for a couple of seconds and then quickly dies. Any suggestions for how to go about fixing this? Thank you all.

 

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I'm not the biggest fan of their videos as they sometimes get caught up in the way they learned and use different terminology than Honda actually uses, but I watched it and for the most part he's explaining the procedure correctly. I don't necessarily agree with the amount of slack at the lever, I've found that with that much it can often lead to difficulty shifting when the engine is warm because the cable can stretch a bit when it gets hot and the clutch doesn't disengage fully, making shifting more difficult as well as finding neutral when you stop. The key to the 350 and 360 design is to avoid too much cable adjustment which causes the lifter arm to rise/rotate prior to actually beginning disengagement, which leads to the "pop" that is always mentioned when the ball retainer plate jumps out of the ramps on the clutch adjuster cam. If you followed the proper procedure and the clutch still isn't disengaging enough to make shifting easy, then you may still have a bit too much slack at the lever
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would like to clarify that the ball bearing is in its place and all parts are greased and accounted for. It's set up correctly but I'm having trouble downshifting from neutral to 1st and upshifting from 1st to 2nd. Takes a lot of pressure to engage the shifter pedal and sometimes it will not engage at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not the biggest fan of their videos as they sometimes get caught up in the way they learned and use different terminology than Honda actually uses, but I watched it and for the most part he's explaining the procedure correctly. I don't necessarily agree with the amount of slack at the lever, I've found that with that much it can often lead to difficulty shifting when the engine is warm because the cable can stretch a bit when it gets hot and the clutch doesn't disengage fully, making shifting more difficult as well as finding neutral when you stop. The key to the 350 and 360 design is to avoid too much cable adjustment which causes the lifter arm to rise/rotate prior to actually beginning disengagement, which leads to the "pop" that is always mentioned when the ball retainer plate jumps out of the ramps on the clutch adjuster cam. If you followed the proper procedure and the clutch still isn't disengaging enough to make shifting easy, then you may still have a bit too much slack at the lever
You are the absolute best, I'll take as much slack out as I can and see if that fixes the issue. Does this have anything to do with why my engine is stalling out or does that seem like a separate issue?
 

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Your stalling sounds like a separate problem, unless the stalling is related to the clutch dragging while sitting in gear. Is the original shift lever and linkage still in use, or did someone replace the original with a shift lever bolted directly to the shift shaft?.If the original is still on the bike, it's also possible the linkage has a lot of slop worn into the sections over the years and that causes loss of real movement of the shift shaft while the shift lever is moving a lot, so that could be contributing if it's still in place (parts in the lower half of this picture)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your stalling sounds like a separate problem, unless the stalling is related to the clutch dragging while sitting in gear. Is the original shift lever and linkage still in use, or did someone replace the original with a shift lever bolted directly to the shift shaft?.If the original is still on the bike, it's also possible the linkage has a lot of slop worn into the sections over the years and that causes loss of real movement of the shift shaft while the shift lever is moving a lot, so that could be contributing if it's still in place (parts in the lower half of this picture)
The shift lever appears to be aftermarket and bolted directly to the shift shaft by one bolt which clamps it down. It appears fairly new and is in good condition.
 

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Well, that rules out any linkage looseness causing your shifting problems. I'd guess clutch adjustment is it, unless the clutch is just worn out but that's pretty rare for a worn clutch on these wet clutch engines to be worn enough to make that much difference. If you take up too much slack at the lever, it can cause the clutch to slip when riding as it won't allow full engagement, but if you take out a little bit more slack at a time until you have full disengagement and it shifts better you should be fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, that rules out any linkage looseness causing your shifting problems. I'd guess clutch adjustment is it, unless the clutch is just worn out but that's pretty rare for a worn clutch on these wet clutch engines to be worn enough to make that much difference. If you take up too much slack at the lever, it can cause the clutch to slip when riding as it won't allow full engagement, but if you take out a little bit more slack at a time until you have full disengagement and it shifts better you should be fine
You're once again the absolute best, thank you for sharing your motorcycle knowledge with me. I truly appreciate it. I think I have it fixed and shifting correctly and smoothly through the gears using far less pressure than I was before.
 

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You're welcome and I'm glad it's working well now - but trust me, there are many others here who qualify for the absolute best title more than I... but thanks for the kind words (y)
 
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