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I had the same problem with one on the 72 cl175. Bought a brand new set off of ebay. Just make sure you look them over before buying, some are just a little different.

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Discussion Starter #7
OMG C.C.C., that's great ! The first one I found was from "Carburetor Capital of USA, Untited States", with very pretty women standing by to take my order ! I almost hit "Buy Now" ! Heh. Gotta love Fleabay.
Thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, that first set looked like the ticket. while I'm waiting for the floats to get here I thought I should check the oil spinner. The oil on the dipstick looks like new, but if it's straight weight non detergent , might all be on the bottom, right ? So I'm going round the horn tapping on the screwdriver shocking the screws. No dice. Get out the hand impact driver. No dice. I quit. Thought I'd give them 24hrs. To think about it. Think I'm going to try the 1/4" electric impact driver next.
 

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Make sure you're using a JIS bit or you'll be chiseling out (or drilling the heads off) the screws later... I've had a Vessel JIS t-handle for decades and recently bought a Motion Pro JIS t-handle as well (with all 3 JIS bit sizes, magnetic), and you'd be amazed at how much torque you can apply to the case screws with the proper-fitting bit and t-handle. I like the look of the OEM case screws and when you have the right tool, they're easy to keep and use
 

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AD, could you post a pic of the T handles you use? I still have and use my impact from 74 that i used at Pistol Petes place. Its pretty beat up, but still works well, beat up from youthfull ignorance!

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I seriously doubt you'll twist the head off one, but it could happen. Tapping sharply on the end of a metal t-handle while in the head of the screw can absolutely help loosen the slight corrosion on the threads and often be the difference in getting it loose without destruction of the head of the screw. I've found that if you use enough inward force - by getting a good grip on a frame tube or other area near the engine to push inward as hard as possible when you're turning the t-handle, to help avoid the driver jumping out of the cross and thus damaging the screwhead - it makes a big difference, and they will often come loose with a strong "snap" with little or no wear on the screwhead, and a good t-handle will get them as tight as you'll ever need when putting things back together again. I bought a Motion Pro assortment of case screws that replaced virtually every screw in my 450 engine and though they have a bit larger head size, they look good and cost a lot less than buying all the OEM screws one at a time if you prefer the look. Here's the t-handle I bought

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-T-Handle-Cross-Head-08-0557/dp/B00M9IKK0Q

I don't have a picture of my old Vessel t-handle, but it's in the garage. I'll post a picture of it later with its red plastic handle... it's been through the mill, like your impact driver has been I'm sure

and here's the search result for the screw assortment so you can get the best price

https://www.google.com/search?q=Motion+Pro+Metric+Pan+Head+Screw+Kit+33-0500&rlz=1C1WPZB_enUS639US639&oq=Motion+Pro+Metric+Pan+Head+Screw+Kit+33-0500&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i64.6212j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 

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Discussion Starter #14
T-hande JIS ordered....Now that screw assortment brings up a question: How many of the screws on the '65 early are the oddball threads like the petcock screws ? Been doing a fair amount of reading, but haven't come across that yet.
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Discussion Starter #15
T-hande JIS ordered....Now that screw assortment brings up a question: How many of the screws on the '65 early are the oddball threads like the petcock screws ? Been doing a fair amount of reading, but haven't come across that yet.
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It's a good question you ask... Steve (66Sprint) would be the one who knows that answer. I worked on very few 160s as they were on their way out when I got started at the dealerships
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I used the 'lectric impact. Got the top two out no problemo. The bottom ovlal head proved problematic. Broke the No. 3 standard Phillips bit off and the "bitts" stuck in the screw. Bummer.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The two top cover screws are standard metric threads. The bottom countersunk screw is still refusing gentle persuasion.
Carb floats came today. They look good. Can't believe they ship those in just a bubble wrap envelope. They survived, tho.
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Discussion Starter #20
I bought the T-handle driver. Nice, tho from Jina. I went to work on that stubborn lower screw again today. I was armed with five items from the pawn shop. Cost me all of three dollars. Two nail sets, a very slim punch, a small chisel, and a screw driver. After another hour of tickling that screw with micro- chisels, (made with the grinder),it let loose and came out. This was my first time extracting a screw this way, and I'm here to tell you , it takes a lot of patience. But once that baby budges, it's a great feeling. So now I need to get the oil spinner apart, get the new guts in the carb. Keep my fingers crossed about the petcock rebuild, and then...maybe take a spin.
 
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