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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished my pathetic attempt to adjust the valve on my 450.

I've adjusted lots of valves in my life and other than those with the shim under the bucket these are about the most difficult to get accurate. Keep in mind I have the engine on a stand and I have easy access to everything. The problem is, it takes three hands. One to hold the screwdriver, one to hold the feeler guage and one to tighten the lock nut without moving the adjusting screw.

With the engine in the bike I'm willing to bet there are a bunch of 450's running around with poorly (tight) adjusted valves. I was using a .002" feeler and tried to get it just a tad tight so the gauge was just a little tough to pull out. The amount of adjustment with the screwdriver is almost infinitesimal between too loose and too tight.

But, most of you probably already know that. :)
 

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Mike -

You just have to feel your way (pun intended).
Each rocker shaft will move a bit when you tighten it down, different for each one. You just need to pre-compensate for each one, so that it's ok once you tighten it down.

You'll get the hang of it.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
tbpmusic said:
Mike -

You just have to feel your way (pun intended).
Each rocker shaft will move a bit when you tighten it down, different for each one. You just need to pre-compensate for each one, so that it's ok once you tighten it down.

You'll get the hang of it.......
I know what you mean but hopefully I won't be doing it a lot. :)

I've got to get some more SS hardware tomorrow. I was looking at the parts manual and it shows hex head bolts for the valve covers. I think when I placed my order I anticipated using Phillips or Button head screws so I didn't have enough 6 x 30mm bolts and I was also short some 6mm washers.

If I was to give anyone any advice when doing a ground up restoration, I would highly recommend getting a good copy of the parts manual. Be sure you get the proper manual for your year bike. I've got 2 parts manuals, the right one for the K3/K4 and one for a K0. There are enough differences that it can cause some frustration.

In fact, I'll go as far as saying in my case I find myself using the parts manual as much and maybe more than the shop manual.

Next step will be to install the advancer and points and static time it with an OHM meter. Then, I'll start working on the shift drum and neutral rollars.
 

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Mike -

You may have problems trying to static time with an ohm meter, rather than a little light bulb.
It's never worked for me, and I can't explain why. I think it may have to do with the little meter battery trying to load up the condenser or something (HondaMan would know).
At any rate, I've tried it without success more than once........
 

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Sensei
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Same here...I also use a regular 12V bulb..... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Since the motor is on the stand, nothing is connected to the coil or condensors so I think the ohm meter will work. I'll verify if with the my test light later.

I sure wish some place were open today. :(
 
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