[Bird76Mojo]

I'd like to know how many of you guys/gals have replaced your steering neck bearings in your 450's. To be more specific, changing them over to the tapered roller bearings. I got a great deal on a kit from AllBalls Racing, from someone on Ebay that did'nt end up using them.

I've got the races in place now, but have yet to grease the rollers. That's tomorrow. Did ANY of you notice that the top race and roller are taller (a little over a couple millimeters) in the neck than the stock units? Meaning the total "stack" is thicker..

GB :mrgreen:

 

[tbpmusic]

GB -

I didn't use the AllBallz, but as long as you can get everything back together ok, it shouldn't matter.
My problem was that, on the first try, I didn't have the lower stem race all the way down, and that caused everything to be off up at the top - not enough threads to get it all back together (duhhh).

 

[jayel]

going to put a zerk in the frame neck for easy greasing?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

going to put a zerk in the frame neck for easy greasing?

No. I think I'll pull it apart if I feel it needs lubing. There are holes in the neck that go into the main frame tubes. Don't wanna fill those with grease.

I was worried about that top race not going in all the way like the stocker. But as long as the roller cage stays higher than the race I think I'm good to go. It appears I've got enough threads to re-assemble.

GB :mrgreen:

 

[danWI]

I'm going to budge in on the thread and ask: are taper rollers a worth while improvement to DOHC 450 steering? I'm not being funny... (tho i am funny looking, thank you) I'm wondering if this is something i should consider while i have my 450 front end apart. Thanks for all input, danWI

 

[tbpmusic]

I'm going to budge in on the thread and ask: are taper rollers a worth while improvement to DOHC 450 steering? I'm not being funny... (tho i am funny looking, thank you) I'm wondering if this is something i should consider while i have my 450 front end apart. Thanks for all input, danWI

Dan Bauer -

Absolutely, well worth the money and trouble.
They give a way better feel than the 37-balls-o-steel that it comes with.

 

[66Sprint]

Dan, Allow me to "chime-in"....You wont believe the difference until you feel it!...Steve

 

[MNellis]

You might not notice the difference between a new set of balls and a new tapered bearing...at first. However, give it a few months, if you ride a bunch, and you'll start to notice the difference. Adjusting them is much easier and more precise and they'll wear forever (almost).

Additionally, they are a whole lot easier to clean and service.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Since so many people here have apparently done this, I'll ask again. Did ANY of you notice that the top race and roller are taller (a little over a couple millimeters) in the neck than the stock units? Meaning the total "stack" is thicker..

I don't see it being a problem, but....


GB :mrgreen:

 

[blues450]

The answer to your question is......Yes. Blue

 

[tbpmusic]

GB -

Like I said, I didn't really notice.
Once I saw everything fit back together ok (meaning the top retainer and big nut), I was a Happy Boy and didn't worry about it any more.
i was more concerned with making sure the steering damper Steve gave was set up properly.....

 

[66Sprint]

GB...Seems to me they "projected a bit", but as long as everything fits and tightens properly..... Some times you have to use additional spacer washers, sometimes the bearings "stick-out"..... That same race/bearing kit can be adapted to everything 250cc up to SOHC 750's, so there's some "play room"....

 

[MNellis]

GB...Seems to me they "projected a bit", but as long as everything fits and tightens properly..... Some times you have to use additional spacer washers, sometimes the bearings "stick-out"..... That same race/bearing kit can be adapted to everything 250cc up to SOHC 750's, so there's some "play room"....

Does someone have a part number for the tapered bearing and race? I've seen them on eBay but, there are several bearing supply houses locally if I can just give them a number.

I haven't pulled the triples out of my CL350 yet, but last night I started pulling the front end apart to paint the instruments on the CB450. Well, as you know, one thing prompted another and now I've got the whole front end apart. I'll be diving into the disc brake system later this evening and ordering up a Bolt Kit as well.

When I got things down to the steering stem last night the old familiar 'notchiness' was very pronounced in the sterring bearings. This is probably the worst I've ever felt. It felt like there was a detent spring in there.

Add another item to the list. I'll have pictures later.

 

[danWI]

thanks for the feedback everyone. i too am interested in a P/N or the technique for measuring my steering head to determine the size of tapered bearings. since the bike is half apart, i might as well make improvements. danWI

 

[blues450]

All Balls Racing lists their part number 22-1011 (bearings, seals and spacers) for the Honda CB 450 K3-7 Their model ID chart will direct you to nearest dealer. I lucked out my stocking Yamaha dealer is 3 blocks away.

http://allballsracing.com/Bearings_seals.asp?page=STK

Spacer washers and new seals are included. As others mentioned, tapered roller bearings make a tremendous improvement with virtually every old ball bearing steering column. Invariably the old ones are notched, flat spotted and remnants of 30 years + used to be grease do nothing.

It's a good to great change out and virtually always worthwhile for the $30 and time. My 2 cents. Blue

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Thank you EVERYONE! I just wanted someone else to confirm this before "tapping" the lower bearing on, and assembling. Actually I got it all put together an hour ago, before reading this. I just packed the bearings by hand and put it all together. It works quite smoothly now.

One more question though? How tight do you guys think the special nut on top should be? The one that takes the special Honda spanner wrench to tighten/loosen.. I paged through the manual but so far have'nt seen anything. :roll:

Just tighten it until things get "hard" to turn and then back it off a little until it frees up more, OR??? I've already been rotating it while tightening to get things to seat better.

GB :mrgreen:

 

[MNellis]

All Balls Racing lists their part number 22-1011 (bearings, seals and spacers) for the Honda CB 450 K3-7 Their model ID chart will direct you to nearest dealer. I lucked out my stocking Yamaha dealer is 3 blocks away.

http://allballsracing.com/Bearings_seals.asp?page=STK

Spacer washers and new seals are included. As others mentioned, tapered roller bearings make a tremendous improvement with virtually every old ball bearing steering column. Invariably the old ones are notched, flat spotted and remnants of 30 years + used to be grease do nothing.

It's a good to great change out and virtually always worthwhile for the $30 and time. My 2 cents. Blue

Thanks for the link. I just got off the phone with my Honda shop parts guy and he's got a set on order for me.

We used to use Dresda stuff back in the late 70's on our Kawasaki and Suzuki race bikes but those sources are long gone.

 

[NE350]

Thank you EVERYONE! I just wanted someone else to confirm this before "tapping" the lower bearing on, and assembling. Actually I got it all put together an hour ago, before reading this. I just packed the bearings by hand and put it all together. It works quite smoothly now.

One more question though? How tight do you guys think the special nut on top should be? The one that takes the special Honda spanner wrench to tighten/loosen.. I paged through the manual but so far have'nt seen anything. :roll:

Just tighten it until things get "hard" to turn and then back it off a little until it frees up more, OR??? I've already been rotating it while tightening to get things to seat better.

GB :mrgreen:

I'm curious too! I did it just as GB described, hope I/we were right...

 

[zx12ryder]

i think Pyramid makes a set of these tapered bearings also......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CB ... enameZWD1V

 

[danWI]

Heres my technique with ball bearings for most of my bikes... may not apply to DOHC roller bearings, so take this with hesitation.

I install bearings and tighten the adjust nut until firm, then install locking nut. Then i reassemble the front end (sometimes this is after doing other things or such) I install and adjust: top bridge, fork tubes, wheel, brakes, bars, etal. Then I sit on the bike and grab the front brake. By locking the front wheel and rocking the bike, I can "feel" the play in the bearings. I lossen the lock nut, tighten the adjust nut alil, tighten the lock nut and rock the bike again. I repeat this process until I can not "feel" any bearing play. Let me knw if this makes sense, danWI


Just tighten it until things get "hard" to turn and then back it off a little until it frees up more, OR??? I've already been rotating it while tightening to get things to seat better.