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Thanks Bill, this will come in handy in the not-to-distant future. Any chance of making this sort of thing a 'sticky'.
 

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Great post. Hopefully I won't need to use it in the near future, but it's sure informative and a valuable reference for 450/500 owners.
 

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mack said:
Great post. Hopefully I won't need to use it in the near future, but it's sure informative and a valuable reference for 450/500 owners.
its not too bad i have done it twice so far....the hardest part is keeping the "pull" on the chain as you feed it throught the cam passage to the other side to link the ends up without moving the cams from the marks.
 

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Would you guys think it to be beneficial to use a clip type master link just to make sure all is correct, then after confirming this by rotating the engine, replace with a rivet variety? I was thinking this idea sounded good in my head. :lol: :lol:

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
Would you guys think it to be beneficial to use a clip type master link just to make sure all is correct, then after confirming this by rotating the engine, replace with a rivet variety? I was thinking this idea sounded good in my head. :lol: :lol:

GB :mrgreen:
If it would make you feel safer, then that's fine.
 

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Thanks Bill! I have dreaded doing this. I have done many SOHC and DOHC cam chains but they all had lift off cam covers that exposed the gears (and it was 25+ years ago). For some reason, the CB450 gives me the heeby jeeby's.
This post of yours just relieved me of at least 90% of my trepidations.
I just acquired my 2ND CB450 and may be getting another on Friday. The Friday one is a real rat but only has 6900 miles on it. The 2nd ones going to be a racer (AHRMA Historic Production). The first one is going to be my rider and the 3rd one? It may be be the hot rod for AHRMA Sportsman 500 (if I progress that far). I'm sure at some point, they all three will be getting new cam chains-- at least.
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
Would you guys think it to be beneficial to use a clip type master link just to make sure all is correct, then after confirming this by rotating the engine, replace with a rivet variety? I was thinking this idea sounded good in my head. :lol: :lol:

GB :mrgreen:
That does sound like a good idea i havent had any probs but it would suck to be one tooth off and then have to rebreak the chain... :cry:
 

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OK, finally got the enging back together and followed the above instructions. When the crank is at the "LT" mark and both tick marks are indexed on the camshaft bearings my left side intake and exhaust valves are open by approx 1 - 1.5 mm. Is this correct? Pictures of marks included. If I move the cams by one tooth in either direction the timing marks are off by quite a bit.
 

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Sensei
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The "index" in the top pic looks more like a mold "seam" than the correct mark to my eyes........The exhaust and intakes should NOT overlap, as hot gasses would be "backfired" out through the carb.... Not a good thing....

Note that the intake cam CAN be installed backwards and both indexes are on the right side (as you ride) of the engine
 

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tbpmusic said:
Does the following apply??
(Viewed from rider's left, referring to the tallest part of the cam lobes)

Left Exhaust - 3:00 (valve closed)
Right Exhaust - 5:30 (and almost completely open valve)
Left Intake -8:30 (valve closed)
Right Intake - 12:00 (valve getting tighter, but still closed)

It's easy to mistake the marks - there may be several features which appear to be timing marks, but are not.
Yes I used the above to make sure that the timing marks that I was seeing were the correct ones.
 

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66Sprint said:
The "index" in the top pic looks more like a mold "seam" than the correct mark to my eyes........The exhaust and intakes should NOT overlap, as hot gasses would be "backfired" out through the carb.... Not a good thing....

Note that the intake cam CAN be installed backwards and both indexes are on the right side (as you ride) of the engine
Sorry the top pic is a bad one. It definately is a timing mark and not a mold seam. How would I know if I got the intake cam in backwards?
 

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intake cam is definately not in backwards according the the pictures in the begining of this thread.
 

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The exhaust cam probably won't be fully installed backwards as the "snout" for the timing advance would obviously reveal that it was in wrong... (I guess it could be done, but you really would have to NOT be paying attention, because you'd have to do it on the intake side of the head....) ... The intake cam is another story....
 

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Here are the pictures:


[attachment=1:1w415gtl]Picture 015.jpg[/attachment:1w415gtl]

[attachment=0:1w415gtl]Picture 017.jpg[/attachment:1w415gtl]
 

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I can turn the follower shafts within their adjustment range (marks pointing away from plug) and they still wont loosen due to cam lobe pressure being on the tappets/valves.

Exhaust valve is just about to close and intake is just opening.
 

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No problem. As always thanks for your help.
 

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Quick question. Can the follower shafts be in the wrong spots (intake follower shaft swapped with the exhaust follower shaft) or are they the same part number? Also, would a thicker head gasket have anything to do with it (reusable copper for the big bore)?
 

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timing mark when intake valve closed:

[attachment=1:in4acvfk]Picture 336.jpg[/attachment:in4acvfk]

timing mark when exhaust just closed:

[attachment=0:in4acvfk]Picture 337.jpg[/attachment:in4acvfk]
 

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I don't expect a response, I'm just thinking out loud here. If you do see anything just let me know.
 
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