Honda Twins banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey forum friends,

‘’this upcoming season I am replacing my 450’s front, Dunlop k70 tire and tube. I already have upgraded custom steel lines and a stronger, aftermarket master cylinder. I am wondering, who here can pull their brake lever all the way to the handle grip? I ask only cuz i see more modern brake systems allowing such far lever travel.
Obviously, my bike stops the best it has but I am curious about lever travel. All air bubbles were pumped out of the lines after proper brake system bleeding. I am also finally replacing the pads despite them not really approaching the red, wear mark.

What pads do you have success with? I think after that minor accident I had way back it would be prudent to replace them. Can’t put a price on life, eh??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
I don’t think I’d want my lever travel to go to the grip, that’d indicate too much air in the lines to me. If I’m being careful, I can pull pretty hard to probably 2/3s to 3/4s of the way to the bar and not lock out the front end, but that’s a slow, smooth pull... usually takes no more than half to get all the braking I want.

As far as pads, I think mine are the standard sintered ones (Emgo?) from 4-into-1 - they squeal a bit, but they certainly keep me from doing any squealing :D glad you’re OK!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
I'm dealing with the same thing on my K5. I've gotten to the point that I believe I put the front master cylinder together wrong. I believe the seal on the piston is wrong way around and it is leaking internally in the master cylinder. I did the brakes, clutch and master cylinders on my '85 GL1200, there are three masters, three calipers and a slave for the clutch. I kept having a mushy feeling from the rear brake and clutch. On the front master I turned the seal om the piston around. The front brake on the GL feels correct.

Here is my thread on this subject. There is a lot of good comments on it. http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/59...8265-jim-s-cb450-k5-help-disk-brake-pads.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@jamespal yes, my lever travels just like yours. Nope, no air in the system or mushy feelings on the braking. I just think that it's wise to replace the pads. I see Common Motor sells some with good user reviews. As for tires, I am so used to riding with the Dunlops that I don't wanna change due to the slight differences in height etc. with more modern fitting tires. I know tire discussions here are like the what kind of oil? threads...so....I have learned that my front ones last a long while the back one has been ok...I don't do the style of riding that results on additional wear and tear. I sadly avg. 3,000 miles a year tops as this seems to be all my schedule allows, as well as the safest routes I now have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
jseconds77, one thing I do with my bikes is practice panic braking. I started this back when my '75 CB360T was brand new. I was in the Navy then ans the navy required everyone with a base pass for a motorcycle to go through training. this included demonstrating braking from about 30 MPH. I scored very high. I know my 450 does not brake as well as the old 360 did and I want that fixed. I have a new Honda piston kit for the 450 and will report once I get it in. I have ridden with Don (76Twin) a couple of times. His after market master cylinder works well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
The pads have wear markers, to show when they are done, but, if the pads are really old, they won't have as much grip, even if the markers say 'new'. I fully scrubbed out the caliper (it really needed this), installed new pads (old ones were original), and added a new brake line (stainless-wrapped Teflon lined), and set the proper pad clearance. It stops about as well as it can, now.

I just measured the lever travel while parked in the garage. Measuring from ~center of the grip to the back of the lever, it is about 2" at full release. Squeezing the lever as hard as I can, it measures about 3/4", or just over half way. Braking that hard when moving would certainly skid the front wheel, or send me over the bars.

When engine braking isn't enough, I always use the front brake in preference to the rear for gentle braking, but usually apply both at the same time, except for rear-brake-only conditions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
The pads have wear markers, to show when they are done, but, if the pads are really old, they won't have as much grip, even if the markers say 'new'. I fully scrubbed out the caliper (it really needed this), installed new pads (old ones were original), and added a new brake line (stainless-wrapped Teflon lined), and set the proper pad clearance. It stops about as well as it can, now.

I just measured the lever travel while parked in the garage. Measuring from ~center of the grip to the back of the lever, it is about 2" at full release. Squeezing the lever as hard as I can, it measures about 3/4", or just over half way. Braking that hard when moving would certainly skid the front wheel, or send me over the bars.

When engine braking isn't enough, I always use the front brake in preference to the rear for gentle braking, but usually apply both at the same time, except for rear-brake-only conditions.
Rick, it sounds like your front brake is working correctly. I have always thought the rear brake was good for about 20% of the front. Once you are in full 100% braking the weight shifts towards the front wheel. This added weight gives more traction and the front can really dig in. At that point all the rear really does is keep the back wheel behind the front.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
658 Posts
Hey forum friends,

‘’this upcoming season I am replacing my 450’s front, Dunlop k70 tire and tube. I already have upgraded custom steel lines and a stronger, aftermarket master cylinder. I am wondering, who here can pull their brake lever all the way to the handle grip? I ask only cuz i see more modern brake systems allowing such far lever travel.
Obviously, my bike stops the best it has but I am curious about lever travel. All air bubbles were pumped out of the lines after proper brake system bleeding. I am also finally replacing the pads despite them not really approaching the red, wear mark.

What pads do you have success with? I think after that minor accident I had way back it would be prudent to replace them. Can’t put a price on life, eh??


Politicians do and it is not high!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ancientdad

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks everyone! My ride is within proper spec. after reading the above. I will order new pads from Common Motor and the tire come Spring. I am a notorious front braker but have since changed the habit to at least gentle braking with both. I have practiced panic braking and always hated the surging feeling from inside when I knew it was time to hit it.

still here. still riding. aside from spending on the $ on tire, pads, and a backup set of carbs from a member I'm proud to report I'm not dumping $$ in my 450, still :) before it was parked for Winter I have no bad running news to report. which is ALWAYS good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
and I cannot recommend enough to replace original m/c's with a good, aftermarket one. I feel it works better and going on my notorious hill my mind has been at ease since upgrading. Bicycle handlebar Vehicle Motorcycle accessories Brake Bicycle accessory
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
and I cannot recommend enough to replace original m/c's with a good, aftermarket one. I feel it works better and going on my notorious hill my mind has been at ease since upgrading. View attachment 231986
Interesting. What master cylinder are you using/do you recommend?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will see if I can post the listing from EBay. Bill Lane recommended it. To me, it feels stronger and more durable. I was thankful I had it during my very minor accident, which could have always been a lot worse.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-2...:CB450&hash=item3f595167a8:g:4TUAAOSwHPlWdHYP

I am sure it's the above but double check. It was a direct mount and no modding whatsoever was required. I am very happy with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
no, I didn't. this seems to be a new thing because all that was available at the time was the m/c in matte silver or black. Due to my error of spilling some fluid my matte silver has def. lost some color but oh well, fits my original un-restored but cared for survivor motif going on!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
if anyone is still reading...I went ahead and ordered a new Dunlop k70 front tire as bikebandit has them on sale for 39% off. Yes, I ordered a new tube as well.
Common Motor sells front brake pad sets for the limited time price of 20 bucks! I will let you know how they look on arrival.
I don't begin riding til like mid to late May due to screwy NY weather. all of 38 here today and cloudy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
625 Posts
Damn, just bought a set of K70's from bike bandit for my 450, not at 39% off though... Good deal there.

I've never been able to get the brake lever to the grip on my 500t, I like em tight! Got an aftermarket MC and new SS lines recently as well, feels good having the front end sorted out.

Nice weekend coming up here in NYC, hopefully us northeastern folks can get a ride in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm just gonna head out late May like I always do. I literally have only one shop within safe riding distance to do any wrenching I may need and in my area, services are very pricey! I had him double-check my bike after my minor accident and install a new rear tire; Complained I purchased and brought in my own tire. I figured I was saving him time tracking down tires to fit a vintage bike since he deals in kustom bikes.
I dunno why but in my experience, bike shop owners always seem grumpy and I don't get it; Owning their own businesses and supposedly doing what they like. I guess that's for another thread! ;p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
......I dunno why but in my experience, bike shop owners always seem grumpy and I don't get it; Owning their own businesses and supposedly doing what they like. I guess that's for another thread! ;p

It's just like anything else - when you do it for a living it's many times no fun anymore.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,085 Posts
^^^that, and they wanted to make a nice markup on a tire they could have sold you... it's the thievery in (almost) all bike shops, especially when they see custom or vintage stuff come in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hey up, Bill Lane! How are ya these days? Been a long time...I get what you're saying, to an extent. But I still think business owners shouldn't take out their burnt out emotions on customers willing to pay.

Yeah, I get the thievery aspect on the tire markup. I'm gonna throw additional $ his way as I think it's prudent to install a Time-Sert on my right spark plug hole. Can anyone comment on cylinder head durability? I have actually went thru more than one! I just feel the plug threads were rather soft to begin with and this one is def. wearing down. It torques the plug down correctly but I'm not waiting for it to get worse. Learned the hard way years ago. I know these can be installed engine in, though I am sure many of you take the motor and head off to install a Time-Sert; No way I am paying $$$ for that labor.

the only other shop in my area that I know thus far willing to lift a finger on my bike is run by a real bum, charging $120.00/hr. Please chime in on that rate!

Other than this, I feel I will be on the road in May or so. Last parked it was running correctly but the carb. sync. could use a good double-checking.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top