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Sensei
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Discussion Starter #1
Put slack in the cable.... I recommend you "set" the threaded adjuster at the handlebar perch at about 1/2 way in....That way you have some adjustment left in either direction.
Cable bottom adjuster (at case cover): thread it ALL the way in so you have maximum slack inside......
With case cover off engine, VERIFY the #10 ball bearing is in place (grease it in)....
Loosen adjuster locknut on case and screw the slotted bolt FULLY CLOCKWISE until it stops (This is the maximum clearance point, "Arm" should be fully " down" as pulled by the spring).....
Replace cover and snug the Phillips head screws...... Tighten the slotted adjuster COUNTERCLOCKWISE (anti-clockwise) until you feel it start to apply pressure to the clutch (you actually feel the springs push back)... Turn it CLOCKWISE until the pressure JUST releases, Then 1/8 turn CCW, and snug the locknut......
Pull the clutch lever against the grip..... Tighten BOTTOM cable adjuster (out) until the lever JUST touches/closes at the perch.....Lock it in place......
Minor adjustments for desired lever "reach" and release points can now be done at the UPPER (perch) adjuster........

It took me longer to type this than it should take to adjust the clutch.........

Steve :D
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

this stuff should be stickied for quick refrence. and so you dont have to type it out a million times steve ;) .... :lol:

i subscribed to the topic for quick refrence when i adjust my new clutch cable here in the next few days
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

I agree; a sticky on this would be great. I'm just about to go through it, too. Thanks Steve.
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Great Instructions! I just adjusted my clutch following Steve's instructions step by step. Clear and easy to understand and it worked slick as.
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Hi Steve (and others),

I had to re set my clutch cable and it is drivng me crazy.
I did as told , but I experienced a "knack" sound when pulling my clutch lever all the way. a loud popping "KNACK".
I also had difficulties putting the gearshifter back on in a proper way. sometimes it would change gears properly, mostly not.

Can one noob screw things up inside the gearbox from playing with clutch adjustment and the gear shifter? I hope not :?

So I seem not to get the right point when adjusting the clutch, once its too tight and gears wont have a grip, then its loose all the way.

Also, when I got the bike running, meaning rolling, it seemed the bike would make a "hop" and then get a grip on the clutch. you know what I mean, like slipping on the clutch and then a little jump when getting a "Good connection". Does that mean the clutch is not engaging correctly, and if so, is that a thing of adjusting the clutch or is it something else, like wrong oil or whatever?

Thoughts anyone?

Sorry for crude explanation, but my "mechanical" english is not the best.

Thanks, Carlo
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Adjust the case adjuster to where there is no tension on it. Then do the same with the cable. Check to see if there is tension on the case adjuster if so back it off more until there is no more tension on it. Then check the cable again it should not have any tension on it, if there is shouldnt be much but back it off to zero tension. Then adjust the case adjuster to where it begins to have tension and back it off just a hair then set cable at lever. Seems to me like your twisting the adjuster past its max movement in the case So it needs to be set back at the beginning again.
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

OK so I tried to adjust the lower end of the cable, but when I tried to loosen the holding nut it cracked right in 2 pieces. duh! It didin't seem to make much difference though, since one is sitting on the other anyway. I just cant adjust anything there any more.
I set the case adjuster back to zero and then did the adjustment procedure like in the manual. Seemed fine, but when I test drove it down the alley, that KNACK came back and it seemed to have loosened again. I am out of ideas ... Could there be some thing wrong within the clutch itself?

Thanks, Carlo
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

If I remember right there is a certain way the plate with the three bearings inside the case has to go in. That is what pushes against the rod to disengage the clutch. I dont think its in the clutch itself.
 

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Sensei
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Discussion Starter #10
re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

The sound occurs when the roller balls (on the plate) pop/drop back into the next "pocket" because the "ramp" disc that the cable pulls has traveled too far (rotationally) ....
This means the "start" position is already somewhat up the "ramp" or there is not enough slack in the cable, or both.....
If the adjustment proceedure is followed, this problem can usually be eliminated....
It's not uncommon for it to take several attempts to find that "sweet spot" where it works perfectly......
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

What he said lol

I can't remember for the life of me remember how I cured that problem other than that plate with the bearings needs to sit in there correctly and the part with the holes in it needs to be adjusted back to where it sat originally from the factory. But I do know you must remove the case to do all that with the cable removed. Been awhile since I did it.
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

66Sprint said:
The sound occurs when the roller balls (on the plate) pop/drop back into the next "pocket" because the "ramp" disc that the cable pulls has traveled too far (rotationally) ....
This means the "start" position is already somewhat up the "ramp" or there is not enough slack in the cable, or both.....
If the adjustment proceedure is followed, this problem can usually be eliminated....
It's not uncommon for it to take several attempts to find that "sweet spot" where it works perfectly......

Alright thanks for the advice. I'll try that out. I did have the feeling it has something to do with a too short cable slack, because the popping sound only comes when the lever is pulled all the way and if you don't pull all the way everythings fine. Maybe I just pull to hard because on my other bike I have the stronger springs installed and I'm so used to give it a good squeeze.
Maybe I just have to set everything with more slack and wobble and relax ... :ugeek:
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Noob here. Went thru this for days. Frustrated to no end. My mechanic friend sat down with me and we adjusted it with the cover off and holding the ball ramp and guts in place with my fingers. You can see whats going on and what should happen. SInce then it's been much easier to do. You can see what happens when you get the CLICK! This worked for me to learn how it works. YMMV.
Good luck
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

I spent a day fighting with the procedure as outlined in the manuals and had lots of popping. Steve, your method worked like a charm. We need to upload your mind to a server so we can get our bikes tuned to perfection without all of the messy breaking of things.
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Steve, Thank you so much for explaining the clutch adjustment procedure in FULL DETAIL. Due to some previously unknown modifications to my bike things were totally switched around but your in-depth and clear instructions succeeded where my owners manual, Clymer and numerous other postings around the net failed. Cheers, my friend. I am raising a beer to you.
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

This forum has been a godsend as I have been getting an old 1973 cl350 scrambler going. With the exhaust where it is its a little fiddly adjusting the clutch but i'm having trouble finding the 'sweet spot'. Neutral light dissapears and then comes back after adjusting. Bike goes into gear but bunny hops and judders until up to speed. Definately not a smooth take off.

So as I re-read the instructions I have a question. After backing off the clutch adjuster and then squeezing the clutch lever as detailed, do I keep the lever squeezed as I tighten the nut on top of the clutch housing? Any helpful hints greatly accepted. New clutch cable.
 

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Sensei
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Discussion Starter #17
re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

Purpose of squeezing lever against bars is to act as indicator when re adjusting cable....Don't hold it.... Take slack out of cable until lever JUST returns to "out" position at perch....
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

thx steve for the step by step!

previously, my bike would lurch forward everytime i engaged into first gear, even with the clutch held down.
i followed your tutorial and for the most part, it fixed the lurching forward and then stalling problem.

i wanted to verify a couple of procedures. the slotted bolt. i turned the slotted bolt fully clockwise as advised until it was fully seated. i put the case back and turned it CCW but i didnt feel the spring push back. rather i just couldn't turn the screw anymore without fear of stripping it. is that the spring "pushing back" or simply the screw is in its max threaded seated position?

what does the phrase (out) mean in "tighten bottom cable adjuster (out) until..."?
what does "JUST touches/closes at the perch"? where is the perch? it the adjustment screw ontop of the case? do i turn it CW or CCW to tighten up the slack?

what direction do i turn the upper adjuster on the clutch lever to tighten up the slack? i notice generally i just have too much play. additionally my NEUTRAL light doesnt come on anymore either (but then again maybe the odo stopped working).

thanks in advance!
 

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Sensei
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Discussion Starter #19
re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

I'll try to further clarify....
1... The "perch" is the bracket on/in which the handlebar lever pivots....
2...When you squeeze this lever towards the handgrip, it creates a "pie" opening (triangular) between the lever and perch....
3... The cable upper adjuster threads into the perch as well.....
4.... The cable lower adjuster threads into (on a 350) the sprocket cover...Threading it CW (in/down) gives slack, CCW, (out/up) tightens the cable (less slack).....

You MAY have bumped the neutral switch connector while you were working under/inside the cover....
 

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re: 350/360 CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

thx for the quick reply. yah, i was spraying a lot of wd40 trying to clean it up. i may have fouled up the connection for the neutral wiring.

what about the slotted bolt question?

the slotted bolt. i turned the slotted bolt fully clockwise as advised until it was fully seated. i put the case back and turned it CCW but i didnt feel the spring push back. rather i just couldn't turn the screw anymore without fear of stripping it. is that the spring "pushing back" or simply the screw is in its max threaded seated position?
 
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