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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I spent some time on the bodywork this afternoon, it still needs more attention but this will be the final look. I'm thinking of painting the rear fender black appliance epoxy with the frame, but the aluminum rear bodywork I'm thinking of polishing.

Thoughts?

When I first made the bends and a few first cuts I'd left it big, clunky and ugly like this:

Today I made some more cuts and with the exception of some finish work on the edges it'll stay this way:




And I'll probably add turn signals here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Ok, been a while. New apartment, shop in storage. Now working in the parking area behind the new place.

Yesterday seemed like it'd be the last good day for outdoor painting, so that was the plan. I found the Rustoleum 7887830 Stainless Steel Appliance epoxy paint that I picked up this summer and started at about 1pm with just brake cleaner and paper towels followed by 150 dry paper and a liberal application of brake cleaner. I only had 2 "oops moments" forgot to mask the vin tag but caught it before I sprayed over it, and the top triple that I'd sprayed Stainless was supposed to be flat black, both easily remedied.

I really recommend that top triples should be painted flat black, I painted one gloss once, too much sun glare off of it!

The rear shocks are chrome, I didn't paint them, they're still the same as they were in other previous posts.
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Steering stops are in, they're about 1.5" high and should do fine, too dark and damp to put it back together tonight. I used 5/16-24 grade 8 bolts, 2" long. The triple drilled so easily, and tapped easily too. One side is perfect but the other slants out about .060"

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Tuesday's update. Sheltered from direct rainfall I was able to pack the tapered rollers with grease and install the triples for the last time. I test fitted my steering stop bolts without their nuts and the bolt heads contacted the frame stops, back on went the nuts and a little red loctite. The shafts of the bolts contact the frame stops, and there's plenty of room between the fork tubes and tank at full lock on both sides.

The front wheel was less fun. Turns out I'd grabbed the wrong speedometer drive (this one's for an 18" wheel) and the wrong spacer too (too narrow) so I'll have to make a trip back to storage. But it's on there for photos anyhow.
The rear end of the frame is sitting on the ground, so don't mind the fork angle.

I'll have to find a block of wood to set the frame on, or hang it from a tiedown strap (more likely) to get that rear wheel on. Still no sign of a kickstand at storage.

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Ok, Friday's update.
I was able to do a little assembly this afternoon. This is a CB750 headlight with some fork ears I made in 2008, all painted the same color as the wheels. I bolted on the rear wheel and connected the linkage and brake stay. I bolted on the right foot peg, but the left I'd found turned out to be from a different bike. I added the washers and nuts to the upper shock mounts, stretched the bottoms of the gaiters over the tops of the fork lowers and set the front fender in place, it's going to take a little work to make it fit.

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Tuesday, an update but little progress. I installed the EBay fuel cap and sat the tank and seat on the frame. Fork ears are 3/8" from the tank at full lock on both sides. I sat on the bike for a few minutes and it's tall. I'll flat foot it in boots but in sneakers it's a little tall. It's likely Im going to have to do something about the stock footpeg position, it's just too far forward.
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Still unable to locate the box of parts for this bike, today I hauled a partsbike home from storage to swap over the wiring, airbox, kickstand and probably a few other things I can't think of.
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
This afternoon I went out and spent some time with this bike before I ran out of daylight. I swapped over the handlebar switches, throttle tube and throttle cables. I moved the battery box and air box, and the wiring harness. Also the rear brake switch and spring.

*** I'm having a little trouble wrapping my head around the way the switch's spring is supposed to attach to the brake rod pivot. When the pivot turns and the rear brake is actuated, the spring doesn't pull the brake switch plunger and the geometry is way off. I was running out of daylight and gave up, I wonder if maybe I grabbed the 750Nighthawk brake pivot & rod that came with the forks by accident?
I'll have to try swapping them to see if there's any improvement.

No pictures today sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
As it turns out I did grab the brake pivot and actuator rod from the 750.


Today I added the cheapest Chineseium LED turn signals I could find, I think I got 4 of these and an appropriate flasher shipped for ~$7 from eBay in early 2017.
These predate the current offering that strobe like a late model Mustang rear signal, these aren't bendy either, but they look better than I'd hoped.
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Just a small update today.

I tipped Nighthawk #2 over to have a look at stealing its kickstand, as it turns out the kickstand on these bikes is mounted on a little frame that bolts directly to the engine cases (cases are split left and right on these engines) so with no engine to bolt to I just cleaned it up a little and bolted it back under #2's engine for now. I'll need to look for a longer side stand probably, or extend one of these.



I swapped out the speedometer drive for an 18" 750 NH wheel with the older CBR600F1 model I'd picked up, my speedometer should now be accurate with this 17" wheel.

The wider spacer I'd hoped to fit between the front wheel and right side fork was wrong again, not quite sure where to look next, eBay probably.

Then I threaded the shortened and DIY zinc electroplated studs back into the sprocket carrier, double nutted them and cranked them in the remainder, then I placed the sprocket nuts on them so they can't get lost. The studs miss the swingarm by 1/8".



 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
EBay purchases are arriving and I'll be assembling my front brake system soon. I've got stock CB750 Nighthawk 91-03 Caliper, new seals if necessary, Honda banjo bolts, new copper washers, Stock 11mm master cylinder, Stock rubber brake line and a set of long FX CNC adjustable brake & clutch levers in silver with silver adjusters.

I'll have to remove the front brake lever perch from the right hand switch pod, so a little cutting and filing will be needed, but I want to keep the switches original, reliable and stock so that they'll plug into the harness without splices and work just like a stock bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I've just ordered up some aluminum folding footpegs that'll mount at the location of the stock mounting bolts, & not reach forward 4 inches like the stock steel ones do.
*And I've also ordered a pair of vibration dampening plates (from the remote control aircraft/camera world) that I'm hoping to adapt to my top triple to mount my (cheapest of the cheap Chinesium) mini-tach & mini-speedometer, so they don't rattle themselves to bits.
 
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