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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Well a GB250 tank may be hard to find, but there are plenty of others to choose from, the backbone of these frames isn't much more than 2 inches wide (unmeasured).

If there's one thing to be said about the tank I mocked up, it's Bloody Huge! 18" wide and approx 24" long. I think i can adapt it with hand made bolt-on parts but that'll be a project for a different day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
It's not too hard to adapt a tank. Rear mounts just need a plate that mounts to the stock location then you rubber mount the rear of the tank to that. For the front once you've decided where the mounts will go, drill straight through the backbone side to side, place a steel rod and weld or threaded rod with checknuts. Place your stock front mount rubbers over that and slip your tank on.

2.4 gallons though?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
It's been a little while since I've updated this thread and I haven't made any real progress in a while.
What I got stuck on was some .120" aluminum plate that I'm planning to bend into a rear rack and some side covers.

The stuff is pretty tough to bend and after weighing my options I decided that I'd be building a bending brake of some sort. I'm working in a basement workshop and welding is just not an option, so my little Harbor Freight mini-mill was going to be doing most of the work. This is what I came up with using mainly scrap that I'd brought home from work over a decade ago. The hinges, bolts and some screws are the only items purchased, less than $10 US.



The clamping plate is held tight by two bolts that thread in upwards through the bench top, it's a little awkward but couldn't get any simpler.


The hinges are mortised and the clamping plate has been milled about .030" deep except for .100" on the front and back edges.



I don't plan on bending stock this thick very often, but it's nice to know that can when i need to.

Test pieces:

 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
It's been a while for me too!
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Finally some work worth updating this thread.
Not wanting to hack up a perfectly good stock seat I set out to find some sort of solution to the ugly rear of the frame and that ducktail of a stock seat.

Since the last update I put a lot of thought into how to proceed with the rear of the bike. I built up a sheetmetal brake from some steel barstock I had around, long project but it works and I probably have about $8 into it.
I had a 30"x30" sheet of .120" (3mm) aluminum plate from which I fashioned by use of Cardboard-Aided-Design into what I'd envisioned as frame hugging bodywork fading to the rear into a rear rack with a small top case (Harbor Freight)

Well today I broke out the bandsaw and trimmed off all the extra bits and broke out the bending brake. It worked fairly well considering the two bends I made were 8 inches of .120" sheet aluminum.

After lots of time at the drill press with a rotary file it fits, not well but it fits. I'll be whittling it down in the days to come until I'm happy with it.
Tracker is the only word for it.
 

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Building and using your own tools is awesome, even better when you can use those tools to make a creative idea come to reality. Incredible feeling of satisfaction, and it saves money! Then you can sit back, have a beer, look at it for a long while and let your mind explore the next few steps. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Time to actually put an update in this thread. I've been spending much of my Covid19 Vacation working on what I've named 250 Nighthawk #2. That bike is being assembled primarily to test parts for the Basket Case bike. I've got a full set of control cables, handlebar switches, and a complete wiring harness cleaned up and installed. I've also been cleaning up and soaking 3 carbs, I can probably build at least one without buying anything.

But today I'm at the point of cracking open one engine at a time to clean up the clutches and have a look at the oil pumps. I also plan to set valve clearances while I'm at it.

I didn't take any pictures (sorry) but i popped the clutch cover off, removed the springs and made the simplest tool I could to hold the clutch basket while I broke its nut loose. I'll get a photo when I'm ready to reassemble.
I was also able to get the oil pump out after pounding away at an impact driver for longer than I'm comfortablewith, its screen was 75% covered in various crud, no metal though so I'm optimistic for this one.
I scuffed the clutch plates and steels with 600 grit paper and reassembled the clutch, nothing looked bad so it'll all go back in.

Unfortunately I let myself get sidetracked, the previous owner had sprayed the engine with a coat of flat black primer. While cleaning the clutch cover (in acetone ;)) the primer easily dissolved, ok with me but the clearcoat beneath is terrible so I grabbed another piece of that 600 grit paper and brought over a pan of water to start sanding. I probably worked on that for a couple of hours after cleaning the gasket surface.
It'll need some more sanding but should polish up pretty well when the time comes.

The clutch cover gasket appears to be in good shape so I didn't remove it from the crankcase. I'm not sure if I'll attempt to reuse it, probably not.
I've got some gasket paper to play with so I'll probably make one for each of the 3 engines before I continue sanding the clutch cover.

Tomorrow I'll post some photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Well, at least I'm not just posting photos to show I've finally done something....like all of my previous updates.

;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Ok, time for photos.

I've got the clutch cover off, clutch out and its plates and steels scuffed up, and i finally got the oil pump out.

I took the valve cover off and took a look at valve clearances, they were set too tight between .003 and .004, I set them all at .005 per some recommendations from the Rebel forum. I cut out 3 clutch cover gaskets, but haven't finished them yet. I'm using Fel-Pro 1/32" paper.
Tomorrow I'll turn some punches on the lathe so these gaskets can have clean holes located correctly.









The short piece of 1.5" square steel is the 'tool' I settled on to hold the clutch basket while I broke its nut loose, not half bad for what I had lying around.

 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Thanks. (y)

With a bore and stroke of 53mm x 53mm (2.08") and 9.2:1 compression it should be able to rack up the trouble free miles.

I suppose I need to get that oil pump apart and measure clearances, what's holding me back is replacing the paper gasket #3 in the photo below.
I can't find any reference to gasket thickness anywhere so I'm not sure about making my own, and I'm not keen on buying things for these bikes although I know I eventually will have to.
Even on the Rebel Forum I'm having trouble finding any useful info about servicing or checking that oil pump.
Basically what I find is the notion of (not a quote) relying on the oil pressure switch and idiot light to tell you if there's an oil pressure issue.
Beyond that regular maintenance is the only other key it seems.

Is that just the mark of a well engineered product?

Text Paper Document Font Plant


306767
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Today I reinstalled the clutch basket, oiled up the clutch plates and steels and reassembled. Placed a penny in the gears and tightened the clutch nut to 38 ft/lbs. I placed the springs back and reassembled, tightened the four 6mm bolts to 70 in/lbs.
All clutch parts are still within spec.

I also cleaned the gasket surface on the top of the head for the valve cover, oiled the rubber gasket and put the cover back on, I tightened the two shoulder bolts to 70 in/lbs as well.

I spent some time making some transfer punches on the lathe, they worked well enough, I'll have to drill a wooden block to store them in and label it. Then I made 3 clutch cover gaskets, I thought they came out pretty well.








 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Not much of an update today, all I did was clean up the oil pump and put its clean screen and rubber screen cover back on.

I just looked up the price of a clutch cover gasket and nearly fell off my chair. I'll have to make a master template to make them from.
 
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