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Discussion Starter #1
I am bringing back to life an '85 NightHawk 450 and just replaced the battery. The good news: starter turns, most lights work and horn beeps. The bad news: the tail light doesn't light consistently when the key is "on" unless the key is jiggled CCW and pushed slightly down. My questions are:
1. Can the lock/switch be rebuilt?
2. Are there any NOS ignition lock/switches/keys available at a reasonable price?
Besides the normal replacements like rubber hoses, dried-out gaskets, tires and fluids, she looks to be in good shape in spite of sitting for at least a decade. I am rebuilding the caliper and MC, adjusting the valves, cleaning the petrol tank, etc. and hope to get her running soon.
Any information about rebuilding and/or buying a new ignition switch will be appreciated.
BTW,
I owned a 1971 450CL that I bought new in Japan and had to replace that ignition switch!
Thanks,
Jim
 

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That part has been NLA from Honda for several years. Checked all the usual suspects for having the part possibly and nothing found. this is the part number you're searching for 35100-443-921
Your description indicates that the switch plate at the bottom may be loose. That's the piece the wires are solder on to. It's held in place by little plastic ears that fit into slots on the housing. You can carefully depress each ear and remove that unit to clean the contacts and grease it with dielectric grease. If the ears are broken then that unit will have to be glued in place. There are little springs and balls inside so you have to be careful with dis-assembly and being sure where each part goes and alignment.
The switch can be replaced with an early version which will bolt up. You will loose the steering lock mechanism and you will have to change the connector end since those use the large spade type. David Silver Spares sells reproduction ignition switches
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys.
I'll take a shot at taking mine apart and cleaning the contacts. The eBay UK switch is a bit more than I am willing to pay right now, but will consider it.
The symptoms indicate the the contacts aren't doing their job, so a repair may work.
Besides the high cost, installing the NOS replacement will mean either re-keying the helmet lock or carrying two keys.
 

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This discussion got me thinking about the ignition switch on my 88 CB450SJ. When the key was turned off you had to use the kill switch to stop the engine. It has been like that for almost 20 years. I had it apart along time ago and could never get it to work properly and the lack of availability of a replacement and if I could find one the cost was not worth stopping use of the kill switch. This tips provided in this thread helped me to take it off, disassemble it and clean the contacts. Getting the small ears to seat proved to be a bit of a challenge on reassembly but I persevered and now everything works as it should. Now to break the habit I have of using the kill switch..... Thanks all

IMG_2942[1].JPG
 

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@tanker When you turn the switch off, it turns the lights etc off but not the ignition? Has the wiring been tampered with? I'd first look at the wiring diagram and check continuity off and on positions and see which connection is problematic. Maybe also start a separate thread if it looks like it'll get more complex?
 

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@tanker When you turn the switch off, it turns the lights etc off but not the ignition? Has the wiring been tampered with? I'd first look at the wiring diagram and check continuity off and on positions and see which connection is problematic. Maybe also start a separate thread if it looks like it'll get more complex?
Yes, when the switch was turned off all the lights went off but the engine continued to run. Checked continuity on the b/w wire for the CDI and there was none. Grounded it and it shut off so I suspected the ignition switch, took it off and disassembled it, cleaned the contacts. Initially I put a small spacer under the center contact as I thought maybe the springs on the ball bearings were weak (shown in the picture, since removed as I didn't need it. Got it all back together and had some difficulty seating it properly in the upper housing but got it eventually, tested it out quite a few times before I put everything back together. Works like a charm now. Thanks for the reply. Joe :)
 

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I'm hoping that dielectric grease was added to the contacts for lubrication and corrosion resistance.
 

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I had the same problem with my CM400E, I had to jiggle and push, and then one time it just pushed the bottom plate right out (or it fell out anyway). Everything looked very good inside the switch, clean, no corrosion, the plastic ears just wouldn't hold anymore, I siliconed it in, works great now. I did find that the rotor portion of the switch can go in two ways, make sure and check before gluing.
 

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Question for you guys, as this seems relevant to the topic at hand... I'm working on an '82 Nighthawk 450 that was given to a friend of mine by his father, but at some point over the last 20 years, the key was misplaced. I've heard about rekeying it using the cylinder on the ignition, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out how to get it apart to look. Any pointers?
 

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I just went thru this. Take the cylinder ass'y. to a locksmith. On the body of the steering lock section there's a faintly punched number, the guy I saw used a brass wire brush and then a Sharpie wiping off the excess to reveal the number.
 

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Getting it off the bike is the issue I'm having... I haven't been too enthusiastic about it since I don't want to break anything, and there's a locksmith right up the road, it's just not easy getting a bike that isn't running that far.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just removed my ignition switch and, as Jim stated, there are two 10 mm bolts that hold the switch in place. It may take a little muscle to loosen them since they appear to have thread locker on them. I used a 1/2" ratchet and a 6" extension. You will have to push aside a number of cables but I found it unnecessary to completely remove the headlight bucket: I just lowered it, with a towel under it to avoid scratching it on the forks crossbar.
I could not repair my original so I bought the switch on eBay UK (Expensive!!!) It's on it's way from England.
Good luck!
 

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THREAD REVIVAL! Having the same issue on the 450 NH I just fixed. Didn't notice it until the other day. This is a handy thread. Love this forum.

Just for the hell of it, even though I was scared to death of breaking the clips, I go it off, cleaned the contacts, a little dialectic and everything's good. 3/11/18
 

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I'm working on a 1982 Honda cb450sc, I'm having the same issue everyone else is yes I'm aware this switch only comes OEM on the 82, 83, and 85 cb450sc except my OEM ignition switch was replaced by the po with an Emgo ignition switch with a 5 pin male connector at the end of the pigtail that plugs in behind the headlight with one pin eliminated they just put a protector sleeve over it and stuffed it in the casing around the harness and thus was a 4 pin connection. My ignition switch also didn't shut down the motor, but it shut down everything else. I had to use the kill switch to shut the motor off. Somebody tried to steal my bike at the end of last season and jacked the key cylinder up pretty good. So, when I say I scoured the Earth for this OEM ignition switch, I SCOURED THIS EARTH FOR THIS OEM IGNITION SWITCH via telephone and virtual highway. Thats how I found you wonderful people. I finally located a 1982 cb450sc with the key in it, (Not giving away my secret location, almost the whole bike is there and from the pictures they sent, at least at a cosmetic stand point the bike looks pretty good I told them to put it under lock and key that I would be calling back once a week to order parts and they test the parts before they ship them) and since I've been hooked up with the factory service manual I'm going to get this bike running the way it should be, i love this forum by the way! I've also attached pictures of the Emgo ignition switch that they replaced the OEM on my bike with. Also, see on the back of the contact the solder point under the middle red wire, the blue wire with the orange line then another 1/2 inch of the same wire at the other solder point. Why? I havent found another emgo switch with those colors. The blue wire replaces the yellow wire on any other one I've seen. Also, just curious I posted a picture of a 6 pin contact switch. I believe theres a emgo switch with fork lock that will bolt up to the 82, 83, and 85 cb450sc. My question is, if this OEM i ordered doesnt work could I use that 6 pin connection and follow the wiring diagram and make a 6 pin aftermarket switch for our bikes?
Edit: I'm only paying $$20 for the OEM switch. Not sure they know how hard this is to come by.
 

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bboothe1988, it's possible the electrical section can be switched around. You'll be the guinea pig for this since it hasn't been tried that I know of yet. Others have mentioned possibly doing it but never done.
 

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Considering I found an oem ignition switch on a Parts bike I'm not going to try that yet but if the OEM ignition switch goes out I sure will see how doable it is. My ignition switch will be here by Wednesday next week!
 
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