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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been having problem with electrical short lately, main fuse blown or power cutting out while riding. When I wiggle the ignition key, neutral light comes on and off. My preference is replacing the ignition switch and gas cap if I can find a used combo on eBay. IF not, is there a way to by pass the ignition switch? or Can I replace the 7a fuse with a 10a relay? Many thanks...
 

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The SC ignition switch incorporates the steering lock in it. This could be a case that the electrical portion of the switch is loose in the housing, you'll have to remove the ass'y to inspect.
Which 7A fuse is blowing? Middle one is headlight, bottom is taillight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its the top fuse holder that gets fried. Is it difficult to remove the assembly? One thing I hate/most afraid of is electrical. All those spaghetti wires makes me dizzy. I looked into YouTube for a video related to ignition switch but not much help. Wish Woodcraft key switch eliminator is available for my bike...
 

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OK, these fuse blocks are known to melt when the owner uses SAE auto fuses instead of the correctly sized metric ones, also if the brass holders are corroded or loose. Need to fix the fuse block before looking for a short.
The wiring is fairly simple, each wire has a color code and it is only connected to a matching code wire.
If you can solder then there's a couple of alternatives to the stock fuse block using newer blade type fuses. One is to find the fuse block for a Honda Elite 125 scooter, aka CH125. That just requires swapping the connector. The other is to get a fuse holder from an auto parts store like this one https://www.amazon.com/Auxiliary-Au...?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1503627759&sr=1-22, the smallest version I've seen is 5 fuses so you can use the 2 extra slots for spares. Then it's a case of cutting one wire at a time from the old fuse block and soldering it to the new one keeping the wires in order so the circuits remain the same.
Third option is to get the original unit and plug it in and know that this could occur again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I brought the bike to my local mechanic and he said its the wiring in the ignition thats causing the short. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars right now, I should bring it in back the winter months and get a "big discount".

In the mean time, he recommended I lose the key chain(use just the key), get a 10A ATC / ATO STD BLADE FUSE STYLE BUSS 22110-300 CIRCUIT BREAKER 12V AUTO RESET from Ebay as a temporary fix. Looks like its working as its been 2 weeks now and I haven't seen the GPS shut down like before.
 

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The ignition system has nothing to do with the rest of the electrical system. It shares the stator as a mounting point for components. It shares the ignition switch so there's a key off function. These models will run w/o a battery.
There's a current thread running by "gobo" who has the same problem. He's got it fixed as of tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Picking up riding once more. The Ignition switch "housing" with 7 wires and plastic rotating disc is faulty. Currently using it a $2.50 generic switch from eBay until I find an OEM replacement.
311288
 
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