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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My bike's wiring harness/switches are in terrible shape and after a few owners it needs replacement. Since it needs a need wiring harness I wanted to go simple. I am currently looking at the wiring diagram but I am very confused by it. I am trying to take my time to really understand how it all works together but I have some questions.

1)The fuse wiring is confusing on the diagram. 1 of the 7 amp fuses is tapped into black wire from the starter switch (according to the diagram) and the other 7 amp fuse taps directly from starter switch (red/black wire). I know that fuses are there to protect from overload but in this instance what is it protecting? Also is there a direction of flow pertaining to the fuses?
2) I will be switching out the ignition switch for a 4 terminal switch to eliminate the starter button switch and I wanted to know what the best way to proceed would be. (Batt, Acc, Ign, Start)
 

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There is no directional current flow for fuses, like a light bulb for instance.

This is for a CM400 but may lead you to a solution:
Dpdt switch help
 

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The power circuit starts at the battery/solenoid connection, Red, thru the fuse, 15A, to the Red w/White. From there it it goes to the Ignition switch, Red, which in the ON position supplies the Black, Brown and Brown w/White power.
The middle fuses, 7A, is the headlight fuse and is supplied power thru the starter switch when the starter button is not pushed. When the starter button is pushed power is interrupted turning the headlight off to give full power to the starter.
The bottom fuse, 7A, is also supplied power thru the starter switch the same as above.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The power circuit starts at the battery/solenoid connection, Red, thru the fuse, 15A, to the Red w/White. From there it it goes to the Ignition switch, Red, which in the ON position supplies the Black, Brown and Brown w/White power.
The middle fuses, 7A, is the headlight fuse and is supplied power thru the starter switch when the starter button is not pushed. When the starter button is pushed power is interrupted turning the headlight off to give full power to the starter.
The bottom fuse, 7A, is also supplied power thru the starter switch the same as above.
Thanks a bunch. I was just confused as to why it had such a round about way of powering the fuses but that helps alot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was planning on using a distribution box for the new harness and losing some of the extra connections/bulk that I don't need. I made a rough wiring diagram for my new harness and curious on if everything looks alright.
1) I didn't see on the diagram where the the other horn button and horn wires are connected so I left that out for now.
2) I will place a15amp inline fuse in the battery cable. I also am placing a 15 amp blade fuse coming out of 1 of the distro box lines but that seems redundant.
3) Seems there isn't a way to loop the kill switch back into the new ignition switch not sure if that causes a problem
4) Couldn't tell what the Dimmer switch was doing in neutral so the diagram table might be wrong for that.
I tried to color code it similar to the original diagram since I am reusing a lot of the switches. Let know if I missed something or if something is incorrect. Greatly appreciate any help.
309315
 

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I hope you don't mean you're putting a fuse in the cable from the battery to the solenoid. If so you'll never get it started.

The kill switch needs to be wired in parallel with the ignition switch with each providing a path to ground. Does your new ignition switch have a terminal that provides a path to ground when the switch is in the off position? Many do not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The fuse is not going to the solenoid, I plan to run a different unfused cable for the solenoid. The new switch does not have a ground path in off. Is there any suggestions as to how to work around that problem? Possibly get a different ignition or even kill switch?
 

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If I understand correctly you want an ignition switch with a "start" position to replace the start button. Since your switch does not provide a path to ground in the off position you could just do away with the capability to shut the engine off with the ignition switch. In that case you have only the kill switch to shut down with (it can operate independently of the ignition switch).

I don't know of a switch with both capabilities, maybe someone else does. You might check with member Sonrier/Sparkmoto.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. I was just wondering if I could have it operate independently. Essentially add a different on/off switch. 1 wire powering it from the distribution box and the other switch wire connecting to the CDI if im correct?
 

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Solenoid wiring isn't right. The positive battery cable and the charging circuit connect to one of the solenoid nut terminals, starter cable connects to the other one. The Yellow w/red is the power to energize the solenoid after it see's ground thru the Green connected to the neutral or clutch switch.
 

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Answer to that ignition key switch independently locking out engine firing is YES it can..... A small automotive relay that only opens the "kill" function (Black/white to ground) when the key is turned to run will do it..... Phone if you need details.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Solenoid wiring isn't right. The positive battery cable and the charging circuit connect to one of the solenoid nut terminals, starter cable connects to the other one. The Yellow w/red is the power to energize the solenoid after it see's ground thru the Green connected to the neutral or clutch switch.
Will update my diagram according. Thinking of using this switch as a on/off for the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Anyone know why the red wire coming from the soleniod to the 15amp fuse is two wires that are joined with a terminal when it reaches the fuse? Was it a manufacturing decision to save a couple of bucks instead of using a thick gauge wire?
 

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Look at the wiring diagram again. 2 wires to 2 different end locations. One to the regulator and one to the fuse block
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Look at the wiring diagram again. 2 wires to 2 different end locations. One to the regulator and one to the fuse block
Yes I understand that but to clarify the wire going to the fuse block in my oem wiring harness is actually 2 wires combined together going to and from. They even indicated in the wiring harness which I was just curious if that was a decision made by manufacturing.
 

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Well it seems Honda made a change, not sure when that occurred or if it's specific to the CB450C. I'll have to do some checking.
I would guess that the change was made by the electrical engineers for a reason that escapes me.
 
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