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So, this is a update to my previous thread since I guess no one knew what was going on. After cleaning the carbs a million times, putting a carb kit in, new air cut off valves, new floats, it looks like I'm done with the carbs, kind of. Right now, I tested it out by letting it idle, idled poorly, adjusted the idle screw and it is MUCH more snappier when I adjusted it, before I had to give it like 4-5 full turns before it moved the rpms now a tiiiiiiny little adjustment changes a lot. I messed up the positions of the mixture screws and tried to get it back to "normal" which it was coughing not backfiring but I think its lean but I cant tell, I cleaned off the sparks after it was running richer than a millionare and I don't see any color coming, which makes me think its lean.

I'm really happy how its running right now it just smokes out of the left side (if your looking at the bikes rear end) underneath the engine, oil leak I'm thinking, something's definitely burning but it could be cob webs or something, it is pretty hot but when it idles too randomly it would raise from 1300 rpms to about 1500-1600 rpms, I don't know if that's normal I haven't ridden it yet because I want the okay that it wont blow up on me. Other than that I'm really happy where I'm at and any feedback would be nice.
 

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It seems you missed a warm welcome to the forum. Here's one from me....lol. Great to see another 400 series here. If you pull the left cover , you may find either the shift shaft seal, #91204-286-003 (most common leak there) , or the output shaft oil seal #91206-413-003 (second most common leak in that area).
You are going to need a manual.

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Thanks man, I needed that, I'll take a look in the morning to see what's going on. But with the rpm weirdness going on, is that normal?
 

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Check the intake boots and orings. It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. I saw in another thread that Siriusinc.com is selling a pair of boots with orings for $58 shipped.
 

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Check the intake boots and orings. It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. I saw in another thread that Siriusinc.com is selling a pair of boots with orings for $58 shipped.

So, I think its the boots that go to the airbox, I forgot to mention the intake manifold boots are brand spanking new with the o-rings installed already. My brakes are, stuck I forgot how to deal with calipers but I know the bolt or something needs to be unseized. The smoking continues but I wasnt able to touch base on those rings either but maybe tomorrow.
 

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Welcome aboard
On a bike that's been parked for a period of time it's not unusual for there to be lots of smoke around until it's gotten hot and been ridden some. May take a few times before it settles down.
To get the mixtures set correctly the carbs have to be sync'd first. Then the idle speed at @1200 but never at 1300 or higher. Mixture is set for highest idle speed which could mean resetting the base speed back to 1200 while doing that.
The air box boots are very important since they will determine how well the carbs function, carbs will barely work without them, and they will affect your mixture settings
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Specific problems are best posted in the SOHC section where most of us check regularly
 

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If your front brake is not releasing try opening the bleed valve. If that releases them it's likely the return port in your master cylinder is plugged. It's a tiny hole in the housing and you'll need to remove the brake fluid reservoir to get at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If your front brake is not releasing try opening the bleed valve. If that releases them it's likely the return port in your master cylinder is plugged. It's a tiny hole in the housing and you'll need to remove the brake fluid reservoir to get at it.
So I completely removed the caliper and the front brake system (I also fixed that weird idling thing by removing the right spark plug which the aluminium is stripped on the engine, I put it back in and now its gone, must have no been in correctly. I also rode the bike pretty much illegally but my god it runs so well now) I have pictures but the pistons on the caliper are stuck, the bleeder screw is out and I still can't get them to go retrack. The other problem is the front brake plunger thing (the parts that your front brake handle actually pushes in) doesn't move, at all, there was a lot of nasty crap in there I cleaned but I still can't get it to come out, kind of stumped on this one, not good with brake systems.
 

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Do you have a dead blow hammer hit the caliper right on top of the pistons this forces the pistons in, pull the brake handle repeat, this done on the bike.(this will force the nasty crap back to the master cylinder) Or with the caliper off use a C clamp force the pistons in
I have freed up many stuck calipers this way.
 

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Do you have a dead blow hammer hit the caliper right on top of the pistons this forces the pistons in, pull the brake handle repeat, this done on the bike.(this will force the nasty crap back to the master cylinder) Or with the caliper off use a C clamp force the pistons in
I have freed up many stuck calipers this way.
Well, I can't do the first one because I took everything off AND my master cylinder is stuck in, I can't get it out, I don't have the special tool to remove it but I will go to my local bike shop to see if I can get maybe a used one or maybe he can get it unstuck. The caliper is a different story, I can't get the brake pads off but I can move them around, any insight on how to get these off to mess with the pistons?
 
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