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Hi All,

This is the second CB that I have owned. I picked up the CB400T 3 years ago and only now getting around to working on it. When I bought it, the thing fired. The battery just came off the trickle charger and the battery from another of my bikes also didn't do anything. I just reinstalled the ignition switch after replacing the key and it's connected properly. The main fuse is fine. The engine cut out switch looks like it may have had someone do a hack solder job. The starter button switch is greasy at the contacts and the yellow wire to engage the starter was broken and looks like another hack solder. The starter switch is only supplying power to the starter, but would a bad cut-off switch be the problem? I read somewhere that the ignition and accessories systems are separate. I am not getting power to anything. What components might be causing a complete lack of power?

Edit: Done for the day and will go through Longdistancerider's sticky to see if that helps.

Thanks,
Brad

IMG_20190510_1717348.jpg IMG_20190510_1717599.jpg IMG_20190510_1718097.jpg


Fixed title for you....66
 

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When you turn the key on, do you have power to the lights?

I am not getting power to anything. What exactly does that mean?
 

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Probably means you have a blown main fuse (the breaks are NOT always visible)...... Or the ignition switch lost a contactor when apart for key-making...
Give me a call and we'll trouble-shoot it.....540-525-5199
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When you turn the key on, do you have power to the lights?

I am not getting power to anything. What exactly does that mean?
Yes, no lights, horn, nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Probably means you have a blown main fuse (the breaks are NOT always visible)...... Or the ignition switch lost a contactor when apart for key-making...
Give me a call and we'll trouble-shoot it.....540-525-5199
I had thought that about the ignition switch. I could disconnect the wires in the headlight bucket and jump some wires to see if that changes anything. I may do that. I am not an electrical expert though. I'll see if I can find a schematic or pic of which wires supply what to where.
 

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Do you have a test light or multimeter?

Start at the battery. Do you have power to the fuse box? Power to the ignition switch?

Cleaning and tightening cable connections can sometimes be the cure.
 

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Sensei
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Unplug key switch..... Jump main harness end of wires (NOT switch ends) connecting Red wire to Black wire in the now empty main harness plug half......
Everything EXCEPT taillight and meter back-lights should be working.... IF SO, bad key switch, IF not, bad wires to and from (Red wires) or bad main fuse....
Phone and I'll guide you through this.....540-525-5199
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you have a test light or multimeter?

Start at the battery. Do you have power to the fuse box? Power to the ignition switch?

Cleaning and tightening cable connections can sometimes be the cure.
I will have to get out the multimeter and do some checking around connections. Won't be today. Mother's day priorities. :) The fuses are all good. Checked the condition of wires, but who knows if there are breaks somewhere. Going to start with the harness at the ignition switch plug. If I jumper them and get some power, it will be the ignition switch. The locksmith may have screwed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unplug key switch..... Jump main harness end of wires (NOT switch ends) connecting Red wire to Black wire in the now empty main harness plug half......
Everything EXCEPT taillight and meter back-lights should be working.... IF SO, bad key switch, IF not, bad wires to and from (Red wires) or bad main fuse....
Phone and I'll guide you through this.....540-525-5199
I may just do that and thanks for the offer. Mother's day priorities today. But yes, I will first try jumpering the harness at the switch connection. Seems like the most likely culprit given the re-keying. With absolutely no power to anything, makes sense it might be at the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unplug key switch..... Jump main harness end of wires (NOT switch ends) connecting Red wire to Black wire in the now empty main harness plug half......
Everything EXCEPT taillight and meter back-lights should be working.... IF SO, bad key switch, IF not, bad wires to and from (Red wires) or bad main fuse....
Phone and I'll guide you through this.....540-525-5199
So I finally have a day today to check these things. I have the battery connected to a slow charger. Voltage across the battery to the pole at the solenoid is 13-14. Negative lead from meter is connected to the battery negative. Disconnecting the Ignition connection gives me nothing at any of the connections. Nothing when I connect meter leads across any of the ignition connections (of course supply side). Reconnect the ignition with key on and nothing at starter, fuses, or across solenoid. Would this be the solenoid? Not getting anything from the other pole than the direct battery connection.
 

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Please post pic of solenoid showing all wires to it.......
Solenoids that have a plug-in connector rather than two small gauge wires contain a lead strip master main fuse under the cover that retains the plug....
Phone and I'll guide you through this.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Please post pic of solenoid showing all wires to it.......
Solenoids that have a plug-in connector rather than two small gauge wires contain a lead strip master main fuse under the cover that retains the plug....
Phone and I'll guide you through this.....
I don't see a fuse there. I would call but I am in BC Canada, other coast and would get hammered with LD to the USA. Found the solenoid on Amazon but thought I would try locally. Sunday, bike shops closed.

I appreciate your help. Good man.

IMG_20190609_1819345.jpg IMG_20190609_1820441.jpg IMG_20190609_1820572.jpg
 

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Google hangouts might work, you can make a call to a phone number but I don't know if it works to another country. There was also a little delay in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, my day is done out here and will be back to it in a few more. Will pick up a solenoid, as they are only $25 or so. If that doesn't resolve anything, then I have a spare solenoid, and I move on to something else. There is just no sign of power from the output pole and beyond the solenoid.
 

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WHY is the battery grounding cable connected to the solenoid? (heavy wire with green tag ring and long terminal strip)
It should be connecting battery negative to a motor mount bolt.....


Power THROUGH the solenoid "bolt" terminals ONLY goes to the starter motor, and only when the start button is pushed.....
The "bolt" that is directly connected to battery positive IS often used as a junction point/battery positive alternate connection..(as it is on your bike)... The "other" bolt terminal gets the heavy wire that goes to the starter motor.....

Follow the RED wires from the battery (or that solenoid bolt junction)....That is where ALL the battery DC power for everything else on the bike flows.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
WHY is the battery grounding cable connected to the solenoid? (heavy wire with green tag ring and long terminal strip)
It should be connecting battery negative to a motor mount bolt.....


Power THROUGH the solenoid "bolt" terminals ONLY goes to the starter motor, and only when the start button is pushed.....
The "bolt" that is directly connected to battery positive IS often used as a junction point/battery positive alternate connection..(as it is on your bike)... The "other" bolt terminal gets the heavy wire that goes to the starter motor.....

Follow the RED wires from the battery (or that solenoid bolt junction)....That is where ALL the battery DC power for everything else on the bike flows.....
The cable connected to the solenoid is the battery positive. Neg cable is only connected to the engine block.

I am looking at the second pic and wondering if the PO connected the harness wires to the wrong pole?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
WHY is the battery grounding cable connected to the solenoid? (heavy wire with green tag ring and long terminal strip)
It should be connecting battery negative to a motor mount bolt.....


Power THROUGH the solenoid "bolt" terminals ONLY goes to the starter motor, and only when the start button is pushed.....
The "bolt" that is directly connected to battery positive IS often used as a junction point/battery positive alternate connection..(as it is on your bike)... The "other" bolt terminal gets the heavy wire that goes to the starter motor.....

Follow the RED wires from the battery (or that solenoid bolt junction)....That is where ALL the battery DC power for everything else on the bike flows.....
What you just said here made me realize that he had connected them to the wrong pole. I switched it and lights and horn worked. I must be getting old and feeble because I think I should have known or seen that. I kicked it over manually and it fired and ran for a bit. Jumping the two poles cranks the starter. So my push button start is pooched. Gonna need to replace the switch unit.

The kick start does not return and when I start it, there is an odd noise I have never heard. Will have to pull the housing to expose the kick start.

You rock Mr 66sprint.
 
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