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Hi Al,
We have hot water again, which means I can have a nice hot bath, hurrah !

Liquid Bottle Water bottle Fluid Plastic bottle

Notice banana box, free from supermarkets with some even giving points if you take them away, economics of the mad house.

They are strong, take a lot of stuff, stack and are recyclable. They have a large poly bag which is usefull and a sheet of relatively thick card at the bottom suitable for making clutch and flywheel gaskets

Red red squirty oil can is usefull, even use it to "pump" oil through carb passageways to help clear them of crud etc..

The brake cleaner aerosol gives a good jet of fluid but is expensive and flammable. It's a good cleaner evaporating quickly. I also have a gallon of the stuff to put in a pump up pressurised sprayer, much more economical at about £17 a gallon.

The squirty washing up liquid bottle, when empty and clean makes a good squirty jet.

The Lance will blow compressed air, and a liquid spray. The compressor has an adjustable air supply to the Lance, and the liquid pick up has and adjustable valve.

Low air pressure gives a slow low pressure air/liquid jet which stops sump crap "splatter" inside the engine when cleaning/flushing.

At high pressure it will spray a fine atomised spray. Water and detergent is not a problem, but a finely atomised flammable spray is,bits dangerous not needing a naked flame to set it on fire, just enough temperature, you have been warned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The pump action spray dispenser never seem to last, they always seem to leak meaning waste of the expensive penetrant/lub liquid.

Household cleaning products have similar pump action sprayer, even a large syringe is usefull for sump crap flushing. I even have a stainless steel cake icing syringe which is good. I saw it in a charity shop at 50 pence, real cheap and a good workshop tool.

There will be other things you can use for flushing out the sump crap.

I have 3 battery hydrometers. One just for batteries, one minus it's float for brake fluid jobs like flushing dirty master cylinder fluid, brake fluid use only, and one for use with fuel, filling carb float bowls for brief engine runs.

I have not shown the other blasters I have like a Lance with a screw on liquid reservoir, and the dry/wet sand blaster etc..

Hope you and others find this little ditty usefull.

If you are thinking about making your own clutch/flywheel gaskets, see if you can get some sheets of the banana box card, which is great, and free.

All you need to make the gasket is the clean clutch cover minus the dowels, a pen, scissors and a 6mm woodworking drill, the type with the spike ( unlike an auger with a tapered screw end ). A flat piece of suitable wood/ply big enough to sit the cover on which the wood drill will penetrate through.

DO NOT do it on your grand piano lid or mouse man table top !

Use the drill by hand. I use a chuck and shaft from a scrap burnt out electric drill.

When holes drilled, and outline drawn with inside trimmed to width, I glue the home made gasket to the flywheel/clutch cover. I grease the gasket lightly then fit cover . They will survive a taking off and putting on at least once.

When gasket glued on I trim the dowel holes with a craft knife.

Try making a gasket. Your first one will be crap, second will be better with the third one perfect.

Use the covers screws/bolts to keep gasket in place when gluing, just don't glue the bolts in. I use a slowish superglue, just keep that well away from your eyes !!!!!

If you glue your fingers to the cover, or each other, don't pull apart !!!!! A twisting action is the way to free your self/fingers.

I use it a lot even in aeromodelling.
You can get hand powered fuel pumps to pump fuel from container to the aircraft's fuel tank.
It gives a good controllable "jet" of liquid but are a little expensive.

Reuse, repurpose, recycle.

Bath beckons....

Dd23
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Lol, yes but no gloves or steel toe cap boots, but you get the idea.

Didn't get chance to take pictures today, plumbing job half way thru...

Will take pictures tomorrow thou.

Any pictures of the sump floor and labarynth, you should be able to see sump floor thru those gaps...

You fancy making your own gasket for clutch cover and flywheel cover ?

Over...

Dd23
Hi Al,
We have hot water again, which means I can have a nice hot bath, hurrah !

View attachment 320937
Notice banana box, free from supermarkets with some even giving points if you take them away, economics of the mad house.

They are strong, take a lot of stuff, stack and are recyclable. They have a large poly bag which is usefull and a sheet of relatively thick card at the bottom suitable for making clutch and flywheel gaskets

Red red squirty oil can is usefull, even use it to "pump" oil through carb passageways to help clear them of crud etc..

The brake cleaner aerosol gives a good jet of fluid but is expensive and flammable. It's a good cleaner evaporating quickly. I also have a gallon of the stuff to put in a pump up pressurised sprayer, much more economical at about £17 a gallon.

The squirty washing up liquid bottle, when empty and clean makes a good squirty jet.

The Lance will blow compressed air, and a liquid spray. The compressor has an adjustable air supply to the Lance, and the liquid pick up has and adjustable valve.

Low air pressure gives a slow low pressure air/liquid jet which stops sump crap "splatter" inside the engine when cleaning/flushing.

At high pressure it will spray a fine atomised spray. Water and detergent is not a problem, but a finely atomised flammable spray is,bits dangerous not needing a naked flame to set it on fire, just enough temperature, you have been warned !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The pump action spray dispenser never seem to last, they always seem to leak meaning waste of the expensive penetrant/lub liquid.

Household cleaning products have similar pump action sprayer, even a large syringe is usefull for sump crap flushing. I even have a stainless steel cake icing syringe which is good. I saw it in a charity shop at 50 pence, real cheap and a good workshop tool.

There will be other things you can use for flushing out the sump crap.

I have 3 battery hydrometers. One just for batteries, one minus it's float for brake fluid jobs like flushing dirty master cylinder fluid, brake fluid use only, and one for use with fuel, filling carb float bowls for brief engine runs.

I have not shown the other blasters I have like a Lance with a screw on liquid reservoir, and the dry/wet sand blaster etc..

Hope you and others find this little ditty usefull.

If you are thinking about making your own clutch/flywheel gaskets, see if you can get some sheets of the banana box card, which is great, and free.

All you need to make the gasket is the clean clutch cover minus the dowels, a pen, scissors and a 6mm woodworking drill, the type with the spike ( unlike an auger with a tapered screw end ). A flat piece of suitable wood/ply big enough to sit the cover on which the wood drill will penetrate through.

DO NOT do it on your grand piano lid or mouse man table top !

Use the drill by hand. I use a chuck and shaft from a scrap burnt out electric drill.

When holes drilled, and outline drawn with inside trimmed to width, I glue the home made gasket to the flywheel/clutch cover. I grease the gasket lightly then fit cover . They will survive a taking off and putting on at least once.

When gasket glued on I trim the dowel holes with a craft knife.

Try making a gasket. Your first one will be crap, second will be better with the third one perfect.

Use the covers screws/bolts to keep gasket in place when gluing, just don't glue the bolts in. I use a slowish superglue, just keep that well away from your eyes !!!!!

If you glue your fingers to the cover, or each other, don't pull apart !!!!! A twisting action is the way to free your self/fingers.

I use it a lot even in aeromodelling.
You can get hand powered fuel pumps to pump fuel from container to the aircraft's fuel tank.
It gives a good controllable "jet" of liquid but are a little expensive.

Reuse, repurpose, recycle.

Bath beckons....

Dd23
Hooray for hot water! Thanks for photo of useful tools and repurposed items. I ordered a gasket for the clutch cover already, but may venture into homemade as a skills-building experiment and for future use :)

Say, when I drained the oil before opening clutch cover, not nearly the 2.6 quarts i put in two weeks earlier came flowing out. Is this normal? (One of the first things when starting work on the bike was to drain old oil. Then I replaced the oil filter and put new oil in before I ever turned over engine (which was weeks and weeks later). Then that oil got drained once I decided to pursue the cleaning of the clutch.) Also: I'm thinking that much of the sump is out of view, so all the gunk that poured out of bottom of case isn't all there is. Is that true? Is there a pool of oil somewhere that I need to access and flush?)

Thanks again for all the help
 

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Yes, oil troughs in cylinder head the cam lobes dip into to create oil splash and eventually oil mist/fog. Also kick start oil trough.

It's best to start at the top of the engine and allow cleaner to drip down. The gaps seen under clutch cover will allow cleaner into the engines insides. A cranked tube will allow cleaner to flush out k/start oil trough.

That's why compressed air Lance with cleaner mix is best but at relatively low pressure to avoid splatter.

Give cleaner time to drip out, use compressed air jet to blow of cleaner making sure oil troughs are empty of cleaner.

Prime cam oil troughs with oil prior to refitting cam cover. On start up it would be good to have the cam cover off to view good oil flow up to cam area. A good check to do for peace of mind.
 
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