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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought my first bike, a neglected CM185T. Never worked on a motorcycle before but I do all my own work on my car so I'm not completely ignorant when it comes to being a home mechanic. Here are some pics of the bike as it was when I got it:
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Not much to look at now, but I think it will be a great bike to learn on once I get everything taken care of mechanically.

Previous owner said he had it running a few months ago but that it wasnt running well and he thinks it needs a new coil. I don't know how truthful that is, but I haven't even tried getting it to run yet. I'm going to give everything a once over before I get there so nothing gets damaged.

I've ordered a bunch of parts and I'll update with each step in this project!
 

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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #2
First shipment of parts are in so I decided to start with the carb. First time ever touching one but it went pretty well (I hope). I used the 4into1 rebuild kit but didn't use all the new parts, keeping some of the originals like the mixture screw because the new one stuck out pretty far. I have a few questions about my procedure at the bottom so I'd love if someone could answer them!

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A little gunked up on the inside.
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After a good clean:
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The float height was previously too high by a few mms so I got it bent back into place. Perfect 14.5mm on both. I also have the 4into1 mixture screw in place in this pic but went back and replaced it with the original so it doesn't stick out as far. figure it is less likely to get moved or damaged that way.
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Everything cleaned and reassembled.
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My biggest hurdle was figuring out what way to assemble the slide and needle. My problem was, my carb was missing the little clip that goes in the slide. Bottom right part in this picture:
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I think my manual calls it a needle cap plate. Well, since my original carb was missing it, I had no idea where it was supposed to go and what it was supposed to do. I THINK it is supposed to wedge into place above the clip on the needle within the slide, keeping the needle in place as the slide moves up and down.

That's where I put it at least. Hopefully someone can tell me if that was right or wrong. I also tightened the idle speed screw until I could just see the slide start to move. Is that the correct place to start?

And I put the needle clip on the middle of the five indents. I'm a little confused about that though. Why would you need to move that? I get that it moves the needle up or down in the slide, but wouldn't turning the idle speed screw accomplish the same thing? I'm probably just ignorant/misinformed.

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All reassembled and back on the bike! Feels good to get the first project done. Only got carb cleaner in my eyes once!
 

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(...)

My biggest hurdle was figuring out what way to assemble the slide and needle. My problem was, my carb was missing the little clip that goes in the slide. Bottom right part in this picture:
View attachment 312849

I think my manual calls it a needle cap plate. Well, since my original carb was missing it, I had no idea where it was supposed to go and what it was supposed to do. I THINK it is supposed to wedge into place above the clip on the needle within the slide, keeping the needle in place as the slide moves up and down.

That's where I put it at least. Hopefully someone can tell me if that was right or wrong. I also tightened the idle speed screw until I could just see the slide start to move. Is that the correct place to start?

And I put the needle clip on the middle of the five indents. I'm a little confused about that though. Why would you need to move that? I get that it moves the needle up or down in the slide, but wouldn't turning the idle speed screw accomplish the same thing? I'm probably just ignorant/misinformed
Hello,
flat round spring on the left should be pressed on one of needle slots. Proper position should be listed in FSM. Position of the needle can be modified to get reacher or leaner mixture (higher needle = lower slot = reacher mixture).

Spring on the right side should be inserted into top of the slide over needle with flat spring. It will hold needle with round spring in position and lock it in slide hole.

Be carefull, it is easy to lose them on dismantling.
 

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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #4
Hello,
flat round spring on the left should be pressed on one of needle slots. Proper position should be listed in FSM. Position of the needle can be modified to get reacher or leaner mixture (higher needle = lower slot = reacher mixture).

Spring on the right side should be inserted into top of the slide over needle with flat spring. It will hold needle with round spring in position and lock it in slide hole.

Be carefull, it is easy to lose them on dismantling.
Cool! That’s what I figured (and what I did). The original needle only had one position for the clip and I realize now that I should have compared the heights and set the clip to the closest corresponding height to the original needle, but I didn’t do that. I just set it to the middle position. I don’t really want to take it back apart so I’ll leave it where it is for now and if I have to adjust it later after I get it running I will.
 

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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Well, ran into my first major snag. This morning I adjusted the cam tension as described in my manual (although I'm not sure it actually did anything) and drained the oil (It was very dark, very smelly).

Then, I thought I would check valve clearance. Everything went well, only one valve was slightly out of spec so I corrected it. Then, when I was reinstalling the cylinder head, one of the bolts snapped. I was using a torque wrench set to 10 ft/lbs but I guess since there was some oil on the threads, it actually got tighter than that and caused it to snap. Shoot.

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So, now I don't know what to do. It is under the lip so I can't get pliers on it or anything. Screw extractor? I've only tried to use one once and it didn't work. Any ideas? I really don't want to mess anything up worse than I already have.

Edit: found some threads on here where people had luck using a prick punch to work it back out. I'll try that. Sounds like extractors do NOT work well for projects like this. Might try a left hand drill bit if that doesn't work.
 

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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #6
Well, had an interesting night. Got my new used left hand switch in the mail (the high/low switch on mine was broken) and also my new headlight so I started work on hooking that up. Had to solder new connections onto the wires on the bike to be able to plug into the connector on the switch because a PO had completely changed the wiring.

Got that all done, plugged everything in, and decided to test everything out. Headlight high/low worked but man it isn't very bright. I need to check with a voltmeter to see if it is getting full voltage. Maybe the 6v light really is just that anemic. Flashers still didn't really work but I'm pretty sure I have a bad relay. I have a new one in the mail. New horn also didn't work. Gave kind of a squawk and that is it. I measured the voltage across the horn wires when I depress the switch and I was only getting 2v. So I need to figure out where that voltage drop is coming from.

Then, when I walked around to the other side of the bike I could smell burning rubber. The wire coming from the fuse was VERY hot. The fuse itself wasn't blown but the metal butt end of the fuse had come unglued so I just pulled the fuse apart to cut power. Darn. Not looking forward to finding the source of the short. I wonder if it could be that when I was trying to use the horn it caused the short? After all I was only getting 2v. Anyone think that could be the case?

But that isn't even the interesting part of my night. I did all this at 8pm and got frustrated that I had a short somewhere and decided to call it a night. The window on the old shed I'm working in was stuck open and when I finally got it slammed closed, my hand ended up going through one of the panes and I got a nice cut on my wrist that necessitated and ER visit and 8 stitches. Didn't get home until 1:30am. Guess I have my first motorcycle injury and it's not even from the motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Success! I finally got that broken crankcase cover bolt out.
Image.jpeg
It was a combo of the prick punch and left hand drill bits. It was very frustrating, but I eventually got it out. And, I didn't damage the threads doing it. I have a new bolt in the mail so I can seal it up once that gets here.

Not really sure what on my list to do next. I guess since I have the oil drained I'll work on freeing up the clutch next and clean the oil filter then fill up with fresh oil.

Still have that electrical problem I'll have to deal with.
 

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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #8
Projects of the day:

New coil, caps, and plugs.

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Made a janky little bracket because it wasn't an exact fit. Not the prettiest, but it's very secure.

Next up was the clutch. It was stuck and I figured if I had to get to it, I might as well replace the friction plates.

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I'm glad I got new friction plates because these were almost completely worn. I soaked the new ones in oil for 24 hours before installing.

I also cleaned the oil pump screen. It was full of sludge. No metal, just gummed up oil.

But I was dumb and thought I would be able to reuse the cover gasket. Nope. Completely disintegrated and I didn't have a set on hand. So, just ordered that and I'll clean the mating surfaces while I wait for it to get here.

At some point in this bike's life, someone owned it who had never heard of JIS screwdrivers and had used phillips heads on all the screws - they're all stripped. The only way I got them out was JIS points in an impact screwdriver (honestly one of my favorite tools right now). So I'm replacing all the bolts with stainless allen bolts. Future me will probably appreciate that.
 

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1979 CM185T
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Discussion Starter #9
Fun/easy job while I'm waiting for the new gaskets to arrive so I can fill it back up with oil: Handlebars!

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Went with lower bars because I really hated the ape hanger look of the stock ones. I also put on new grips, levers, and a new lefthand switch unit because mine was broken. These bars are significantly lower than the stock ones so I'm going to have to get creative with the cable routing.

Might try to tackle tires, brakes, wheel bearings, and chain tomorrow. Oh, and a little more soldering to get all the connections in the headlight to reach each other.
 
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