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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've posted a couple of other places on here, but thought it would be good to have a centralized location to put my ramblings and lame questions. There will be a lot of them, as this is the first bike I've worked on.

Here is my CJ360T. It had been tuned up in '08, but not really ridden since. It was running, but running rough. I picked it up for a couple reasons. First, I love vintage bikes. Second, I wanted something cheap that I could use to learn how to work on them. Third, the price tag was acceptable to my wife.

Known when I got the bike:
Compression is good
Turn signals don't work
Runs, but runs rough at idle and worse in midrange and above
Doesn't smoke.
No obvious leaks
Oil "looked" clean

I have:
-Changed the oil (exhaust gaskets on order to clean the filter, but haven't done that yet)
-Replaced the fuel in the tank
-Replaced the in-line fuel filter
-Replaced the air filters
-Replaced the battery
-Replaced the plugs
-Rebuilt the carbs, replaced internal parts as needed.
-Synced and adjusted carbs as best I could without a carb sync tool
-Checked the cam chain for tension
-Adjusted the valves
-Replaced the points
-Adjusted the timing
-Adjusted the clutch cable
-Removed the engine guard and luggage rack
-Steel wooled the crap out of the exhaust collector for added shinyness
-Rewired the turn signals
-Replaced the flasher relay

On order:
-Motion Pro tappet clearance tool
-Clutch cable (Also Motion Pro)
-NOS Exhaust gaskets
-NOS Gas tank mounting rubber (just in case)
-NOS Fork seals
-NOS tool kit and bag
-NOS grips and levers
-European superbike handlebars

Things I've learned so far:
-NOS parts are expensive
-CMS rules, but see above NOS statement
-I'm going to spend as much on tools as parts
-The motion pro tool for checking valve clearance on these things is a must
-Swapping out the handlebars is going to suck
-There is a slight tweak in the forks/tree somewhere. The bars are ever so slightly turned right when going straight. It annoys me, but doesn't seem to effect the handling of the bike. I found a couple of scrapes on the exhaust collector when cleaning it, so I think it may have had a low speed lowside or something. No other evidence of crash. I'm wondering if anyone here has ever tried upgrading the front forks/brakes on something like this.

Current condition:
Running and riding. Acceleration is great. Engine is a bit clicky/noisy, but I feel confident that's due to the feeler gauge I used when I did the valves. Turn signals are working again. The clutch acts a bit strange. I can adjust it, and it will work great immediately, but slowly it gets worse. Eventually, the clutch is engaging right up until your hand comes off the lever. I feel like it's the cable.

I'm kind of up in the air on what I want to do with the bike. I know that immediately, I just want to get things dialed in so I can ride it comfortably for the remainder of the season. To that end, I think I'm fairly close.

This winter, though, I'm going back and forth. Part of me says that I should keep it more or less stock, because the CJs are hard to find and it's in pretty good shape. The other part of me says I should cafe it out because I love cafe bikes. I like the idea of having a longer gas tank with more capacity, but if I do that I've got to go the full cafe route. If I go the cafe route, then it loses some of what makes it a CJ. Either way, I'd like to take it down to the frame and restore it in some fashion.

This site has been tremendously helpful so far, and I'm thankful to everyone for their help. I'll be posting more soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The Postman Cometh

The mailman brought me cool stuff today. Not any of the stuff I need, but cool stuff anyways.

The handle grips and levers currently on the bike make me die a little inside when I look at them. These NOS replacements, along with the new handlebars and some as-yet-to-be-acquired napoleon mirrors should remedy that situation.

Also, although I know I'm probably crazy, I can't help but like having the idea of a NOS tool kit with the bike. Since it was available, I jumped on it. I'd be lying if I said I didn't enjoy unwrapping it all, putting it in the bag, and strapping it in. It felt like Christmas.

I'm hoping to pick up some progressive rear springs this month as well. Still waiting on my fork seals, tappet gauge, exhaust gaskets and clutch cable.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

When I go to buy a bike or pick up an old junker, that's one of the first things I look for. The original tool kit. There's just something right about having one. ;)

Not to mention how handy they can be for roadside repairs. :p


P.S. I suggest that you put those spare old levers in the toolbox in case of a crash. Also a few bolts/nuts of different sizes are helpful as well.. The rule usually goes: If you have it with you, you'll never need it. :lol:


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: 1977 CJ360T

GB - Agreed. Preparation is key.

SIDE NOTE; My Motion Pro tappet gauge arrived today, so I can finally get the valve clearance dialed in. Some digging into why my exhaust gaskets haven't yet arrived brought to light a mixup at the seller. They were shipped in the computer, but never actually shipped. I finally got my tracking number for those and the fork seals this morning. Evidently, my clutch cable and gas tank mount shipped today as well. It appears my plan to constantly be awaiting parts is going well.

Starting to make plans for the handlebar swap now.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

Nice writeup Indie, nice to see you documenting it all.

I never realized that the CJ's had that compartment in the tail, pretty cool. I built one of them into the cafe seat on my KZ and I used it for my tool roll too, very handy.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

I was surprised too at the storage capacity of that seat fairing :shock: You could fit a spare clutch cable and a muti-meter if ya wanted :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: 1977 CJ360T

I like that compartment as well. It's one of the things causing me to consider keeping this thing more on the stock side rather than going completely cafe with it. I'm still leaning toward going the cafe route with it, but I think it could look equally sweet with just new bars and bar-end mirrors, some paint, powder and polishing, and perhaps some exhaust. Oh, and some progressive shocks in the back.

After trying on a couple different nights, I got the valves adjusted properly. I obviously didn't do it right the first time. It was nice to have that moment where you say, "Oh, I know what it is..." I had that moment tonight while pouring through the technical section looking at everything that had to do with valve adjustments. I posted some things I found helpful in the Tips and Tricks section here. It feels good to get them nailed down.

My clutch cable and spare gas tank mount are scheduled to arrive on Tuesday, but I've all but given up on my fork seals and exhaust gaskets. Hoping this is a fluke with OBB. If I don't get more satisfaction from them tomorrow, I'm going to start calling around locally. Hopefully the dealer will at least be gentle and perhaps buy me dinner before having his way with me on price.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

Everything progressing nicely! Don't hold your breath with the OBB; lots of complaints about them over at Do The Ton.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: 1977 CJ360T

As my fork seals still hadn't actually shipped as of this morning, I canceled my order. I called the local Honda dealership, who had them in stock at only $1 more than the ones I had previously ordered from OBB (after shipping). I can't believe I'm saying this, but I wish I had called the dealer sooner.

So, anyways, I have my exhaust gaskets in hand, and my clutch cable should be delivered today.

Excited? Yup.

Now the question:

When I go to reinstall the right side engine cover after cleaning the filter, should I use some Permatex or something on the gasket surface? It looks like there might be some type of gasket material there in addition to the gasket itself. If so, should I use high temp? I have a replacement cover gasket, as well as exhaust gaskets in case they're needed, but I'll need to pick up some permatex. I just want to make sure I'm doing it right, and that I have everything I need.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

IndieSol said:
As my fork seals still hadn't actually shipped as of this morning, I canceled my order. I called the local Honda dealership, who had them in stock at only $1 more than the ones I had previously ordered from OBB (after shipping). I can't believe I'm saying this, but I wish I had called the dealer sooner.
I've always had great success getting parts from my local Honda dealer. Most of the time they are cheaper than anywhere on the net and get here much much sooner with no shipping charges. Always worth a try. With our dealer you just have to fire them off an email and he get back to you within the day, great service. I know they're not used to dealing with the older bikes very often so I usually get the Honda code for them to avoid confusion and speed up their search.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: 1977 CJ360T

I've been using the part numbers as well, but mainly because the first time I called the dealership the guy didn't believe me that Honda made a CJ360. :lol:

Isn't that a new avatar, Perry? Did you get a new bike ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Clutch cable replacement frustration

Well, replacing my clutch cable, while seemingly simple, went South almost immediately.

I pulled the gear shift lever and footpeg easily enough. I started removing the screws that hold on the left side engine cover, starting with the bottom right screw. It came out with no issues, as did the bottom left and top left. The top right won't budge. All I'm doing is stripping the damn thing at this point.

I have no idea what to do. I tried spraying some WD 40 on it. I've tried hammering a screw driver into it. I've tried a larger screw driver. I've seen people talk about penetrating fluid. I don't have any at the moment, should I pick some up? I've seen people talk about having to drill things like this out. I don't even know where to start.

Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.

 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

Try a hammer screwdriver. It's your best friend with the screws on the engine.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

yep, an impact driver is a must for undoing old screws.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

leethal said:
yep, an impact driver is a must for undoing old screws.
Thanks, the name of the tool was escaping me.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

Lightly heat where the screw threads into the rearmost case before using any more tools on it. Be sure it's at least hot enough that you can only hold your hand on it for a second or two. Pick up an impact driver and a set of bits specifically for that tool.

Open flame/torch, etc - ONLY if the carbs and fuel tank are NOT installed though..



GB :mrgreen:
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

That one almost looks to bar gone for an impact driver too.

I think you said that all the other screws were out so that's a good thing.

You've got two options. First, try using a dremel tool with (even a hack saw) and cut a slot in the head. Then you can use a slotted screw driver bit in the impact tool.

If that doesn't work, you can drill the head off the screw then the case will pull off and you can use vice grips to back the screw out. Actually, once you drill the head of the screw off and remove the case the screw shaft will probably be finger loose.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

Bird76Mojo said:
Lightly heat where the screw threads into the rearmost case before using any more tools on it. Be sure it's at least hot enough that you can only hold your hand on it for a second or two. Pick up an impact driver and a set of bits specifically for that tool.

Open flame/torch, etc - ONLY if the carbs and fuel tank are NOT installed though..



GB :mrgreen:
Oh so true. Having just gone through this with the screw that holds the speedo cable in the front hub, I am reminded once again of the power of heat. :D ESPECIALLY if you have two dissimilar metals. I find that steel bolts and screws are more difficult to remove if they are held in an aluminum housing, and that heat the aluminum makes the job much, much easier.

In a perfect world, it should be done in this order:

1. Spray some penetrating fluid (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.; not WD40, that's not what it is for).

2. After you have let that sit for a while, use an electric heat gun to heat the aluminum housing. I like the electric heat gun--less likely to start fires. :mrgreen:

3. Use an impact driver to remove the bolt.

4. If the hole is too rounded out to get purchase with the impact driver, you can try using a Torx bit, tapped in with a hammer, or for the application in this thread, cutting a slot for a flat head screwdriver using a Dremel cutting disk would be pretty easy.

Good luck.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

Awesome. Great suggestions. All of them. Many thanks.

It seems I'll be making a trip to Harbor Freight this afternoon. I've planned on buying a dremel for a long time, and I knew I'd need one at some point on this, but was REALLY hoping to put that purchase off a couple of weeks. While I'm there I'll pick up a heat gun, an impact driver and some penetrating fluid. I need this thing fixed!

I really envy those of my friends that have been accumulating tools for years.
 

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Re: 1977 CJ360T

If you get the impact driver replacement bits at Harbor Freight then you'll end up shattering quite a few of them removing stubborn screws. I ended up getting some hardened bits from Sears I think, and they've held up to everything so far..


Just a heads up..



GB :mrgreen:
 
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