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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanna make this a rider. I have already started cleaning it up some. It has silver paint on the engine and wheels. I already have the rear rim cleaned up. I do not know why it was painted because it is nice and shiny chrome under the paint. No rust on that one. The front is a bit harder to clean due to the paint being heavier and there is some rust scale on it. I am not sure how nice I can make the engine. Right now i do not plan on taking the engine out or disassembling it. I will clean what I can. It does run. I have tuned it and changed the oil already and took it for a short putt up and down the driveway. I do need to get a front tire due to weather checking. I have mirrors on the way and a new shift lever (the one on it is mangled!). I also have a center stand coming from a 75 CB360. I figure it should fit. I just need to figure out where to hook the spring on the frame. The exhaust I have coming is a MAC 2 into 1 system. It says it will retain the centerstand and oil filter access. The muffler was full of holes. I am still looking for a seat lock. That is missing. There was a small tear on the seat so I stuck a small patch on it.

I also may need the rubber bushings for the handlebar mount bolts. The handlebars wobble back and forth. I need to tighten them up somehow.









 

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hogie said:
I also have a center stand coming from a 75 CB360. I figure it should fit.
Whenever I'm not sure on fittment I'll use the parts diagrams on a site that sells oem parts to check and see if their part numbers are the same for the machine I have and the one I'm considering buying parts from.

bikebandit.com and servicehonda.com are both good sites for checking part numbers.
(bikebandit is a bit pricey but it is a good site for checking compatible parts)

Ernie
 

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If your in the states i have a number for a honda dealer in ohio that has pretty much any impossible part to find for a 360.

Also if you didn't know the 360's have a centrifugal oil filter. Its paperless and more or less slings oil to the side of the bowl its in. I thought some jerk just didn't bother replacing mine. So if it says access to oil filter its talking about side cover access. Which you'll find you still have to remove the brake lever and kicker. But aside from that its not hard to get to.
 

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Seems like your PO filled, sanded and painted every Honda logo off ya scoot. I like badge-less myself. I just ordered in a set of genuine Honda handlebar mount rubbers from www.cmsnl.com for $12. I used to be a fan of cheap Chinese made after market rubber parts...until those parts crapped out after 12 months or so (MikesXS...I'm looking in your direction...)
Good luck with it and sorry to hear about ya kidneys dude.

Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
leethal said:
Seems like your PO filled, sanded and painted every Honda logo off ya scoot. I like badge-less myself. I just ordered in a set of genuine Honda handlebar mount rubbers from http://www.cmsnl.com for $12. I used to be a fan of cheap Chinese made after market rubber parts...until those parts crapped out after 12 months or so (MikesXS...I'm looking in your direction...)
Good luck with it and sorry to hear about ya kidneys dude.

Lee

Hi Lee! Yeah, I find it odd that there is no logo on the alternator cover!?! That is normally cast into it. And I think the tank had a simple decal on it instead of a badge that screwed on. This seems to me, from my reading about it, like it was a severely cheapened version of the 360. (no elec starter, cheap badging, no center stand, 2 into 1 exhaust, drum front brake, etc) It seems to be a peppy little bike tho from my short run with it. Too bad I pulled the muffler before I discovered that I can't get a new one! I could have it on the road already. I hope all goes fine once I take her for the first road run....no break downs....

All the lights work and it did not smoke or anything. Chain could prolly be replaced (it looks nasty). It has a new coil and one of the capacitors has been replaced. New rear rubber too. I do need to replace the front tire. It is cracked bad and may come apart if i try to run it on that one. Got it from someone who is not licensed to ride but was gonna fix it up so he could ride it. He had it maybe 3 years and tinkered on it but decided to get a new scooter instead and sold the bike to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well, I got it licensed so I could take it out and test ride. I put the old muffler back on even tho it leaks badly.

1) as the RPMs climb, she bogs down (inclines make it worse...no power) could not get more than about 50MPH out of her
2) it is blowing smoke out the breather so, the rings have some blow-by
3) the front wheel shakes a bit so I may need to have the rim checked for true (could also be the bad tire I need to replace yet)

I do not know how much the PO messed with the carbs. I did adjust them a bit after getting it warmed up. May have to rebuild. I have the timing and points right on. The advancer seems to be free. I pulled the breaker plate and it moves freely.

Dang!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I have the carbs off. Now waiting for the kits to get here.

Could not get that left side cover off! Screws would not budge and I did not want to chew them up. I do not have a compressor or an impact driver. I managed to get the carbs out anyway. Taking the airboxes off made it a bit easier.

I need to find some guages so I can check the sync when I get them back on.
 

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Yeah..I wouldnt take any new to me 70's bike out of the driveway without a carb overhaul. Ya never know what jetting mistakes some PO had a crack at. I just got my rebuild kits but am waiting on my re-chromed tops to come back before I go for it.

You should be able to get a cheap impact driver for under $10. Gotta have one I recon....
 

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Sensei
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Hogie.... Out in the junkyard I often use the "alternate" impact driver.... I get a long 10mm bolt, a #3 phillips screwdriver, and a hammer.... I align the bolt on the head of the screw I want to extract, and smack it with the hammer several times (enough to "mash" the phillips+ a bit) ...I then tap the phillips driver into it and twist the screw out......
 

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66Sprint said:
Hogie.... Out in the junkyard I often use the "alternate" impact driver.... I get a long 10mm bolt, a #3 phillips screwdriver, and a hammer.... I align the bolt on the head of the screw I want to extract, and smack it with the hammer several times (enough to "mash" the phillips+ a bit) ...I then tap the phillips driver into it and twist the screw out......
That's a great tip - simple and effective!

Awhile back I bought a set of left handed drill bits, they're great for when you've reached the point you're going to use an easyout anyway sometimes the left turning bit will extract the screw without having to use the easyout. I love 'em.
 

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Jeez those bouncing Hondas are distractive
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
66Sprint said:
Hogie.... Out in the junkyard I often use the "alternate" impact driver.... I get a long 10mm bolt, a #3 phillips screwdriver, and a hammer.... I align the bolt on the head of the screw I want to extract, and smack it with the hammer several times (enough to "mash" the phillips+ a bit) ...I then tap the phillips driver into it and twist the screw out......
Thanx for the tip! I got it off! And did not chew up the screws!



As you can see, the PO sprayed EVERYTHING with silver paint! Thankfully the battery is salvagable. The vent tube was kinked and it was VERY low on water. I added water and charged it. All the cells bubbled so, none seem dead.


Pardon the cluttered garage....gets messy over the winter. That is a 1940 Ford 9N tractor I restored back in 2001. One of my fav toys and a workhorse too! I should do some cleaning in there while I wait for the parts.... :lol:
 

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Make SURE you get the silver paint off the high torsion coil to plug wires!....
That aluminum paint is conductive and can short out....(no fire to plug scenario).....
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did some reading on this machine. Seems there was a recall on it back in the day.....top end. Valve stem seals I think it was. It said that if it had been done that there would be a punch nark below the dash in the serial number.....no punch on this one...

So maybe that is why she is putting smoke out of the breather pipe. I imagine it would be impossible to find stuff like that now. I was searching to see if you can even find piston for this and had no luck. Was thinking maybe go over-size if the bores are worn. Wont even take her apart now....It does have 20,000 miles on it so, I imagine it could use a rebuild......if I could find the parts.

I am hoping the carb rebuild will cure my problems.

Yes, and I am cleaning as much of that paint off all I can. Using steel wool, brass brushes, rags and some elbow grease. Don't dare use any chemicals on the wires
 

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Surprisingly, gasoline works fine and doesn't seem to damage them....... apply to coarse rag (washcloth or bath-towel bits) and scrub gently.....eventually all comes off.....

Now for the bad news....TWO recalls, valve stem seals with punch below dash, cam-chain tensioner/guide with another punch above serial.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
66Sprint said:
Now for the bad news....TWO recalls, valve stem seals with punch below dash, cam-chain tensioner/guide with another punch above serial.....

Darn! No punches at all on engine near serial. I had a cam chain tensioner fragment in my 76 CB400F. Locked up the engine. That is when I finally got rid of it to someone who was planning on rebuilding. I did not have a garage at that time....living in an apartment. I looked at it after he tore into it. Chunks got into everything and locked motor up.

I had bought it new while in Army in NC. I guess the recalls never caught up with me since they had no addy for me. Hope this one don't do same......I am starting to regret buying it! :(
 

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No Regrets..... Here's what I did with my CJ and an old SL350 frame....
... No punch marks, but no problems either......
At least to the point where somebody offered me WAY too much $ for it!..... :lol:

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey! I was thinking of replacing the old airboxes with a pair of K&N filters like in your picture. I was thinking I might have clearance probs. You must have moved some stuff around.
 

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Well yeah..... It's a 350 centerpost frame, not a twin-side post like the original 360 frame....
I almost always mount the battery and electrics down, to lower the center of gravity.....
The foam air cleaners are better than the K&N's......
The entire front end on mine (exception of headlight mount ears) is stock CJ 360...Love that fender!
 
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