[joshuaCB360T]

A friend gave me this 1976 CB360T after it had been sitting idle in his garage for nearly 10 years. It's my first motorcycle.

The only obvious cosmetic changes from factory are the handlebars and the rear taillamp. It is also missing a seat. Other than repairing whatever is required to get it running, there really isn't much damage to it except a cracked headlamp housing and busted left turn signal.

First thing I did: After changing the oil and cleaning the "oil filter", I attempted to clean the carbs (first time ever touching one) which included full disassembly, soaking in carb cleaner, cleaning the jets, and replacing all the o-rings.
Random pics before cleaning:

Afterwards, though, it was obvious I did something improperly - I'm guessing the float heights were not set right. I could not get gas to flow into either of them.
I also bought a fully disassembled 1974 CB360 which I intend to build - rather than use as a parts bin - after I get the '76 revived. But for now I borrowed its freshly-rebuilt factory carbs to confirm that the original carbs I attempted to rebuild still need to be done properly. They are trickier than I thought.

And after flushing the gas tank, cleaning the petcock, replacing the fuel lines, and putting fresh gas, I got the bike to start and run - rough, and only on one cylinder Currently troubleshooting no spark to the left cylinder.

Again, I was able to use my 'extra bike' to confirm that the missing spark is likely an issue at the points, which I plan to troubleshoot soon. Just waiting on a proper impact driver to remove the alternator cover, whose bolts are totally seized. I already had to drill and extract the points cover screws and want to avoid it again if I don't need to.

While waiting for some better tools for the engine troubleshooting, decided to tackle the front brake, which I'll continue in the next post.

 

[joshuaCB360T]

I do have a couple questions. First: I expect the brake lines to be corroded, damaged, and worn. I plan to replace pretty much everything, and with the upper brake line I see this strain right after the master cylinder where there is excessive cracking and wonder if this routing is normal or should I plan on doing it differently? I see the length of this line is 15" and there are other options (13") that seem intended for bikes with lower handle bars. Anyone have experience?

I'll probably replace everything here except the caliper. Even with the big chuck taken out of it, I think I can get away with just cleaning and repainting.

Also, any tips to getting the pad out of the caliper housing without a functioning master cylinder to push it out?

 

[gogodirk]

I do have a couple questions. First: I expect the brake lines to be corroded, damaged, and worn. I plan to replace pretty much everything, and with the upper brake line I see this strain right after the master cylinder where there is excessive cracking and wonder if this routing is normal or should I plan on doing it differently? I see the length of this line is 15" and there are other options (13") that seem intended for bikes with lower handle bars. Anyone have experience?
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I'll probably replace everything here except the caliper. Even with the big chuck taken out of it, I think I can get away with just cleaning and repainting.
View attachment 319592
View attachment 319593

Also, any tips to getting the pad out of the caliper housing without a functioning master cylinder to push it out?

 

[gogodirk]

Grease gun on bleeder screw fitting. Pushes it right out

 

[mnm]

The kink in the brake line is from forcing the master cylinder onto a clubman.