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Discussion Starter #3
Once I got the tank back from the radiator shop, I could then primer and sand it. I just used a rattle can to get the job done. The tank has a couple dents. I've left them for now. Repair those later...I just want to ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Other items to install. I cant do the caliper and master cylinders yet. Both contents (piston and internal bits) are solidly stuck in place. I think I'll have to drop them off someplace to be serviced at this point. I've fought with them long enough with no forward progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Over the weekend, I took the seat off and gave it a good cleaning. I used Honda's Spray and Polish. Makes stuff look sooo good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also took some pics of the bike in the driveway this weekend. At this point, Im waiting a my carb rebuild kits to get here. Then, once the front brake is sorted, I'll get new tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got back from lunch, and the Keyster carb rebuild kits from Sirius Consolidated Inc. we're sitting at my desk. I can start that project now :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Started the process last night. Got the carbs out, ready to dig into those. Also, while I had them out, I took the opportunity to clean up the air boxes.

The left carb has a tint of green to it. I remember when I first got it to start (roughly) the points were off a bit and the left pipe wasnt getting warm during idle. Once the points were cleaned a bit and set, the left side fired right up. Is the green tint an indication that its been in-active for awhile?
 

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Looks nice!

Are those air filters brand new??? Holy crap they are clean.

Hope mine can look half as good as that once I am done
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SteelB12 said:
Looks nice!

Are those air filters brand new??? Holy crap they are clean.

Hope mine can look half as good as that once I am done
No, they are the originals. The bike only has 2,500 miles on the clock.
Yeah, they cleaned up nice though!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Carb rebuild halted.
Opened up a carb and found a plastic circle piece broken apart. A washer of some type that helps hold the diaphragm in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have some questions about the rebuild kit I have and the original parts.

Things dont look right. (horrible at remember these part names) The jet I took out from under the float and the one in the rebuild kit are COMPLETELY different. The other needles and screw bits in the pack also dont look the same as the parts in my carb.

Is the new float jet in the package actually 2 pieces? Another float jet (like the one circled in red) inside that brass housing? I have not opened the package because I though I may have to send it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've color coded these pics for reference of my questions.

The part circled in white. Should that just pull out with needle nose pliers? (after you remove that black U shaped part) I've tried to pull that out, it wont budge.

The screw circled in red is removed, but the part in the rebuild kit looks nothing like this.

Yellow screw removed, I see a smaller one (?) under it. is that right? And just get a small screw driver to remove it?

The Green circle, with that screw removed, there is something under it too. And does that come out? Needle nose pliers?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
These are the things I've taken out so far. The dots show where these went, in reference to the first color coded carb pic above. There is nothing in the rebuild kit that looks like the part indicated in red.

Do I have the wrong rebuild kit?
Do I have different carbs than 360T carbs?

Thank you all for any help or suggestions in advance.
 

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The reason the long part coded RED (secondary main) in your last pic seems unfamiliar is because the jet is still screwed to the needle jet holder.Soak it in carb cleaner for a while, then use an 8mm circle wrench and a snug fitting large flat screwdriver to separate them.

As far as the float valve seat goes (white) spray with carb cleaner and with needle nose pliers and a bit of cloth to prevent scoring, try to wiggle it loose.

The large flat blanking screw (yellow) hides the pilot jet, which should unscrew easily. But please be sure to use a snug fitting driver! They get mashed up pretty easily.

The little fellow you see hiding under the main jet (green arrow) is the main nozzle, you can carefully tap that out with a wooden drift. It exits the same direction as the main jet did.

The red arrow in your second pic is in the wrong spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ah yeah! ok...got it.

leethal said:
The little fellow you see hiding under the main jet (green arrow) is the main nozzle, you can carefully tap that out with a wooden drift. It exits the same direction as the main jet did.

The red arrow in your second pic is in the wrong spot.
Is that piece important enough that I would need to tap it out to clean in that area?

Thanks man for the help and clarity on this.

I did notice the the numbers on the jets are different from the ones in the carb kit. I'm tempted to just clean my original components and just use the carb kit gasket to seal it all up.
 

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Lemme guess....you got 110 mains instead of 68's?

I dont think its necessary to pull the main nozzle.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah! what the hell?! lol

Here is what I have out of my carb..
(left to rIght) 110 - 68 - 35 - and the needle in the diaphragm thing said something like 040040.

In the rebuild kit
(same left to right) I didnt find a part like 110 - 100 - 35 - diaphragm needle 0553

Also, the small holes in the shaft of #35 in the rebuild kit are noticeably smaller.

Cool. I'll leave the main nozzle, and just blast it with carb cleaner and air.

Also, any idea where to get a replacement plastic ring thing for the diaphragm assembly? Bike Bandit only list the whole part at $90 (not individual pieces)
 

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I doubt it will be available as a seperate part..... :| Either find another slide on ebay or craigs list would be my suggestion. How important is the ring I dont know...perhaps you could try running it as is.....does it leak aik without the ring?
 
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