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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Welcome to my project!

Paid $150 sight unseen - a friend-of-a-friend deal. It wasn't running, but was told it had been until it was replaced by the last owners Harley. It's been neglected, but not sure how long.

Here she is:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
1st Step - Clean fuel supply

Poured this out of the tank.


Thought I had some more pics, but seemed to have lost them. The tank had been previously lined with a latex liner. It was coming loose, and tons of rust hiding under there. I ordered a POR-15 motorcycle kit, and worked on cleaning that up. The kit worked very well. I do wish I had two stripper applications, as bits of gooey latex were left sticking to the tank. I went for it anyway, and the new epoxy liner has seemed to coat everything very well.

The petcock assembly was clogged with old gas. I took a 1/32 drill bit and pulled all the gunk out. Replaced the 4-hole gasket, and put it all together.

Good news is fuel started flowing, AND the bike started after a few kicks.
The bad news is the petcock still allows fuel to flow, by drips, when in the off position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step 2 - Clean Carbs

With tips from Steve (here on the forums) and a neighbor, we took carbs apart and cleaned them up with Gum*Out. Boy did it run black! Took them off and put back on a few times trying to stop the gas from flowing through the overflow. No luck there.

What we did:
- Gum*Out the whole thing
- Adjust floats to specs - 21mm from carb body to outside edge of float.
- Polished needle and seat with Q-Tip in drill and a bit of toothpaste. Didn't think it could hurt anything, but didn't fix it either.

The Results:
- Successfully took apart and put back together my first piece of auto machinery ever!
- Bike RPMs keeping more even now, needle used to wobble 400 - 500 RPMs, rev and fall back over and over.
- Hesitation in up-throttle now - guys here tell me carbs set too high, into mid-jet range, due to low compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Big Problem #1 - Get Fuel to flow and stop on command

I was told gas leaking into oil can really mess things up, so it sounds as if getting the free flow of fuel fixed is the biggest task at hand. As mentioned there's two parts to this problem:
- Petcock doesn't shut off
- At least one of the carbs won't shut off either. Gas will flow through the overflow eventually. Maybe a tablespoon overnight.

Recommendations for fixing either in whole or part???
 

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Lucky find! I would have bought that for that price.

How was the POR15?? I have it sitting in my garage waiting to be used. Just wondering if its going to be a hassle to do the treatment.
 

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Nice find! Glad you jumped in with both feet to work on it instead of farming it out to a repair place.

My petcock on the Gyro was clogged bad. I tried to clean and replace a few things but ended up replacing the whole assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
SteelB12 said:
How was the POR15??... Just wondering if its going to be a hassle to do the treatment.
I liked how POR-15 worked. There are a number of steps in their instructions, and I did my best to follow them exactly. It took the better part of a Saturday afternoon, but even a lot of that was hands off. For example, you rotate the tank every 20min or so to ensure at least 20 min contact to all areas with the chemicals. I like that silver liner it ends with. You can really see what's going on inside the tank with that reflective coating in there. I really wish I had two stripper applications so I could have gotten every last bit of that latex out. I think it'll be fine though.

Because my tank had previously had a latex liner, I bought the kit with the stripper like I said. This added to my hassles. If you are going to do the stripper step too, make sure you've got the hose ready and rags standing by. This is another of those lessons once learned you probably won't forget. Much like the lessen I learned last week - it's a good idea to turn the key off when checking the gap in the points. :D
 

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great find--from one cb200 owner to another!

as for the petcock that won't shut off...it sounds like the switch is worn or just not working right (so that when it's "off" it's not really off!). might be worth just replacing the whole petcock. you can get them new on ebay for 40 bucks--NOS honda parts. you can also find used ones cheaper. i'd avoid the "rebuild kits" out there. they're hit or miss and usually not worth the money (in my experience). the problem could also just be the gasket that sits behind the switch. if it's shot and crumbling or twisted up, it could be holding up the switch or something. easy to replace--5 bucks. really, the only thing that would cause fuel to flow from the petcock when it's off is the switch not closing the fuel off all the way. take it off the bike, and use air to simulate gas flow through the various passage ways. that way you can check when air (or gas) is flowing through when it shouldn't...

as for the carb...
sounds like a float and/or needle issue. since you've already done a thorough cleaning, it could be that the needle and/or seat is worn and in need of replacing. again, HONDA parts! forget keyster carb kits and all those other brands. they don't compare to honda parts and in this case you can get honda parts. if you have a honda bike shop near you, you can order through them. if not, you can order by mail from here: http://www.xtremeusa.com/fiche_select2. ... &fveh=2883, or a number of other similar places you can find on the web. i've used this place before with good success. the carbs parts you should be able to get are: slow jets, floats, needles, needle seats. starting new is not usually my first piece of advice, but in this case (since you don't know the bike's history, since you've already done a good cleaning, and since these parts are cheap enough) it's worth it.
have you checked the float on the leaking carb good? submerge it in water...if it sinks, you've got a leak in it and need to replace it. if worse comes to worse, start switching one carb part at a time from the leaking carb to the non-leaking carb (start with the float, then the needle, then the needle seat). whichever part causes the leak to jump to the other side is the culprit. it's time consuming, but you can actually do it with the carbs on the bike...just by dropping the float bowls.

good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the tips. I'll look into replacing the entire petcock assembly. I've already replaced the gasket, and there's no leak at the petcock itself, just lets fuel flow into the lines.

I'll do a submersion test on the floats, and see where I go from there. I think they are fine. I've checked them right after draining the carbs, and can't hear or feel anything sloshing around in them. Still, I'll do that diagnostic first just to check. I've cleaned the jets, and can see into all the holes now. They are just tubes with little holes in them, what can go wrong with jets??? I think I might just need needle needle and seats. Probably start there depending on the float tests.

I also put in an order for a Clymer manual. When it cools down I plan to start breaking it down and see what I can do about the compression.
 

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the clymer manual is a good one.

yeah, it doesn't hurt to do the submersion test. even when you don't hear any gas sloshing around inside, it could still have a hairline crack or something that allows just enough gas to seep in. it doesn't take much.

nothing really should go wrong with jets. and i didn't mean to suggest that they could be part of your problem--that's unlikely; i was just saying that they are available should you ever need them. they just get dirty/clogged. if you can see through all the holes, that's a good start. put the thin straw in the nozzle of the carb cleaner and blow it right through the jet and make sure it comes out all the holes it should. even still, it wouldn't hurt to let them soak in some berryman's chem dip for a couple hours. that will make sure there's no gunked up gas or carbon deposits inside (that you can't see).

you're right on about the floats, needles, and seats (in that order) being the likely culprits....
 
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