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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I’ve never had great charging on my bike. It always murders batteries. The R/R has been stock, Kohler, and now Sparck Moto. In a fit of desperation, I did what the sticky said and set my multimeter to 20 DCV and stuck the probes into the pink and yellow spots on the plug from the alternator. Fired the sucker up. Zero on the multimeter. Is that reasonable/possible, or am I doing this wrong? It doesn’t seem like I’m getting anything no matter what combination of wires I go for. Multimeter is known good.

EDIT: ahem. Stator. That’s not the part I was wondering if I’m stupid over :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like I’m testing it right...just kinda surprised to see a completely dead stator, yknow? It’d answer a big question, but I don’t wanna get my hopes up if I’m just being stupid :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ll follow up with that tomorrow - unfortunately running with no mufflers at the moment means that I’ve gotta be careful with the neighbors :D
 

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Simple test.. start the bike.. disconnect the positive cable to the battery..
if it dies... you have no charging..
NOTE.. do NOT do this with any newer car/motorcycle.. you will fry the ECM.

If memory serves me correct, the stator will be producing AC current prior to the rectifier. I believe these have 2 circuits/fields (one normal, the other for high beam)..
 

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I don't think this model puts out enough to power itself at idle


Simple test.. start the bike.. disconnect the positive cable to the battery..
if it dies... you have no charging..
NOTE.. do NOT do this with any newer car/motorcycle.. you will fry the ECM.

If memory serves me correct, the stator will be producing AC current prior to the rectifier. I believe these have 2 circuits/fields (one normal, the other for high beam)..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With everything LED, it might be close enough to at least run for a bit? If it dies immediately it’s definitely a busted stator, I’m guessing. I actually have a spare, just wondering if I should waste the new oil in there to put it in :D
 

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Lean it to the right against something (wall, bench) and chock the wheels and very little oil will be lost. I think the output below 2k to 3k rpm is low enough that it doesn't break even, so the engine would probably die if the battery is disconnected. Definitely AC voltage from the stator
 

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No need to tear into the stator yet.
Put your meter on 20VDC and connect to the battery and note voltage. Crank the bike noting voltage drop when cranking. Use the cable adjuster at the throttle to bring RPMs to 3000, note voltage and post them.
If the battery voltage was low battery could be weak or needing charge, troubleshooting with an inadequate battery will throw you off.
Did cranking voltage drop too low? Could be a bad battery, needs to be good for troubleshooting.
Did the voltage go up at 3000 RPM? If yes, charging system is probably good and may be a connection or battery problem.
If voltage did not go up at 3000 RPM, check idle and 3000 RPM AC voltage going into the RR.
 

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Lights off it should barely be able to charge itself at an idle, mine does anyway..barely. Mine has both circuits charging all the time though so may just be enough to work.

Pink-yellow should read 12-15ish VAC at idle and over 30 at 2k, pink-white should be roughly the same maybe a little lower as that is the extra smaller coils.

Charging is also about how you ride, you need to spend lots of time over 2k in order to recover from just e-starting it, a good 10-15 minutes should be plenty. They won't charge much in stop and go traffic, stay in low gears and keep the rev's up and it should somewhat keep up. Don't be scared to hold 1st and 2nd at low speeds, its not hurting anything other than peoples ears. :D


Like Tom mentioned, just lean the bike over a little, like stick a 1" block under that side of the center stand or against a wall, it won't leak much oil out at al, been there done that a few times, heck I do that every time I set timing on them.
 

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Lean it to the right against something (wall, bench) and chock the wheels and very little oil will be lost.
You could always fit a short length of clear tube to the tip of a new turkey baster and steal some oil out of the filler port before tipping the bike as suggested.
Even cheap oil isn't that cheap anymore, it'd be a shame to waste any of 'your oil of choice'
 
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