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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I just discovered this site and was hoping for some advice.
I rescued a 75' CB200 from a barn for all of $20! Has only 6,000 miles and according to the DMV I am the first official owner. Over the winter I rebuilt/cleaned the carbs and located some of the missing lights, parts that were missing.
This spring I fired it up for the first time. It seamed to run fine as long as the RPMs' were HIGH. I took it for a ride down the road and noticed that it had NO power when I tried to climb a hill. I added some throttle and at 4,000 RPMs' it took off like it actually had power. When I got back to my driveway it still wouldn't idle and I felt the exhaust manifolds. The right was HOT and the left was cold. When I started it I noticed that the right was the only side actually running, the left was cold to the touch again...EXCEPT when RPMs' were over 4,000 then both cylinders actually run. I have good compression, there is strong spark. The left carb float bowl didn't look like it had as much fuel as the right so I rebent the tab to the correct measurement and it still didn't seam to have a difference in how much fuel was in the bowl. No matter how I bend the tab it doesn't change. When the float is down fuel does run out into the bowl though. Any suggestions on what to do now to get the cylinder to light? (picture is the day I bought it, just rinced off the dust with a hose)
 

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It does sound like a blocked pilot jet, but I dont know anything about these particular carbs. Have you rechecked the jets/passages for blockage? Did you fit an inline filter from the tank after rebuild? Did you check the diaphram for holes? What were the compression readings?

Just some ideas... :)
 

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Sensei
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OK...First, you need to check compression......after sitting, one set of rings could be "stuck" by shellaced fuel and not moving/sealing properly....
Then check Timing...Specifically the advance unit... An engine that will run WOT but not at idle often is set too advanced (or the advance unit could be "stuck" at full advance)
Third would be valve adjustments....
Fourth would be check battery...Hondas in general won't run with a "low" battery....
Next would be reclean/reset carbs.....

Personally, I'd cheat.... I'd try spraying a little bit of ether... only at the non-firing side carb at low revs... If it "picks-up" and then runs on that side as well, its likely a carb/fuel supply problem.....Re-clean/ reset carbs.... Check fuel flow to both (bad petcocks are common)....This assumes you got good compression readings....DO that first regardless!

(Note to Lee.....Slide type carbs, not CV)
 

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Sensei
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Another thought........ One of the coil leads to the plugs (or one cap) could be bad....Swap them (they both fire at the same time) and see if the non-firing side swaps as well..... If it does, you'll need a new coil or cap(s).....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I finally had time to work on the bike this AM. I started the bike and sprayed Carb cleaner into the non firing side (I didn’t have starter fluid). It didn’t do anything. I let the bike die and swapped the spark plug leads. I never got the bike to start again so I don’t know if that helped. I ran out of time anyway and had to go to work. Does that help anyone narrow the problem down???
 

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Sensei
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carb cleaner does not burn well....You must use ether (starting fluid) for my "cheat"...
...However, since it wouldn't start with the plug wires swapped, THAT would be where I'd look first.....Swap back, see if the originally firing side will now fire....If (when) it does, swap ONLY the caps...If it still runs, you need a new or working coil (one HT wire is bad).... If it doesn't, a new cap may fix it....You'll also have to check the plugs before deciding this absolutely is the problem....they may be fuel fouled by now......
While you are getting the ether, get new plugs....
 

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I put one of these on Wifey's CB200 - it's actually half of a 4-cylinder setup.
You need a single coil with two leads, since you have a 360 degree twin.
It was a stone cold bolt-up, no mods at all.
I think I paid less, so you may want to look around.
A real good investment on any of these old bikes.

http://tinyurl.com/qu79k4



 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just noticed that with the points cover off when I turn it over the points shoot sparks all over when I turn the bike over. Nice blueish white sparks come out of the points ehrn they open and close...
 

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Sensei
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Point sparks mean the primary side of the coil is working.... NOT necessarily that the secondary windings are also good.... However, since you get one plug to fire, it is possible that the secondarys are fine too....That leaves the two heavy (HT) leads and caps... I suspect a bad cap....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I took the cap off today and cleaned up the plug wire and reinstalled it, hooked the plug up and grounded the plug to the engine and got no spark. So I took the cap off and tested continuity with no results. The plug is testing fine. I took a small screw driver and pushed it into the plug wire and set that close to the engine and got a good spark. So thanks to you guys and gals I know the cap is bad. Monday I’ll have to hit the stores around here and see if I can find a new cap. I’ll keep you posted on what I find….
 

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Sensei
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New caps are available through Mike's XS site Only a few $ each......
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I finally got parts. I ended up ordering points and condensor as per advice from some people around town. I just finished putting them in. When I have the plug out and lying on the cylender fin I am now getting a good fat blue/white spark. Its' to late to try to run it but at least I have spark now....
 
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