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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Made a bit of progress today with only a moderate amount of f*ck-ups.

Started with the clutch. I ordered new EBC clutch plates and springs. I didn't know if I should have soaked them in oil or not. I know some people do but the FSM didn't mention it. Also it'll be a while before I fire this up for the first time. Thoughts?



The plates go in the clutch basket alternating between the EBC plates and the metal ones:



Put the pressure plate on along with springs and washers then bolted it together:



Everything is going well so it's about time to screw something up. Today I decided it would be fun to go HULKAMANIA on one of the bolts and sheered the head right off. Luckily I was able to drill the remaining portion of the bolt out easily. Anyway now I'm down a clutch bolt. I'm tempted to just go by one from the hardware store but my gut tells me no good.

This raises a very good point. Does anyone know how much torque to apply to these bolts? I'm always worried when internal engine bolts don't have a torque spec because I'm terrified it'll come loose when I'm doing 80mph one day.



Next up was the oil filter and pump. All my ducks in a row:



I realized the gasket kit I bought had an oil pump gasket so I took it apart, hit the surface with acetone and a scotchbrite pad and put the new one on:





The old gasket felt like a piece of hardish plastic where my new one is very very thin paper. I hope that's not an indication of quality.

Filter and pump installed:



Oil spinner installed:



Finally I started putting the head cover back together. Two of the rocker arm shafts are exposed (where as the other two are hidden behind the points cover). Because of this I sent them off to get zinc plated. It occurred to me that the tolerances are pretty slim with regard to the rocker arms and all that but I found a way to brush the thought off. Lo and behold that extra thousandth or so made it impossible to get the shafts installed in the head cover. Luckily I had some hydrochloric acid hanging around:



I gave them a dip for about 10 minutes and it removed the zinc plating from the dipped portion while still keeping the exterior portion nice and pretty. I haven't buttoned up the head cover yet but I put it on anyway to see what it's going to look like. Almost looks like an engine:



Time to powdercoat the right side cover and move on to the stator side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Vacation is nice because I get to work on the bike almost daily. I'm going to try to churn out as much as possible in the next week before it's back to the grind. My wonderful wife treated me to a Pamco Ignition for christmas. Just got around to putting that on today and buttoning up the top end with my SS allen bolt kit.





The gasket is a little large. I'll probably trim it before I'm done.

I was wondering if anyone had any expanded drawings of the starter motor? The FSM doesn't really show what's going on inside and I, being myself, had to take it apart. Powdercoated the housing but now I've got a bunch of starter parts to figure out:







I had a problem getting the starter chain back on. I put it on the small cog and tried to get it started on the larger cog around the crankshaft. I did the standard "get it started then rotate the cog to pull it on" but I swear the chain was about to break. Is there a trick to this? Or are you supposed to just muscle it on?
 

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Clutch plates need to be soaked in engine oil. 24hrs
6mm bolt 7~9 ft/lbs, use a nut driver (screwdriver with socket)
Those bolts don't normally break below 14~16ft/lbs
If you pull clutch hub off shaft, drill from behind usually spins broken bolt out
 

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Just a thought for the future -
I'd bet you could have simply polished the Fresh Zinc Plated surface on a buffer wheel, I re-plate a lot of hardware and parts using the Caswell Zinc Plating system and it leaves a slightly rough surface.

Polishing on a wheel would have brought it down just a wee bit and most likely would have been all you needed, and left the protective coating intact.
 

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Great work Ian - Your fire place tool-engine stand bolt made me laugh...I can totally see myself wondering around the house trying to find something that would work and being happy when I found the old fireplace tool (something that I should have thrown out 10 years ago but now am happy I kept).

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Just so you guys don't think I've given up...

I've started trying to get my frame ready. Removed tabs for airbox, center stand, and ugly rear plastic fender. Also welded DCC rear hoop on and mocked up with my new tuffside seat.





I have a couple questions. I'm trying to think of everything that will need to be done to the frame before I powdercoat it. One thing I'm unsure about is mounting my new exhaust. I have found a set of CL360 scrambler pipes I plan on using. I'm not sure where these mount though. Does the CL frame have a mounting point where the CB doesn't? Doe anyone have a picture of this? I'm assuming I'm going to have to weld up a mounting point myself.

Also, the origional mufflers on the scrambler pipes are toast so I was going to buy some slip on shorties. Is the top muffler really welded on? I guess cutting the pipe is the only way to remove it?

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
The name of the game is wheels. I'll be powdercoating the hubs, spokes, and rims as well as replacing the bearings, seals, and rubber. Step one is dismantling:

So the absolute most difficult part of this was removing the bearing retainer on the rear wheel. I didn't have the proper wrench, and I'm a cheap bastard so I decided to go the DIY route.

Start out with some large washers:



Everything must be nice and square to line up properly so get your Pythagorean Theorem on:



Verify that all the holes line up:



Add bolts in holes and test fit a socket:



Splatter molten metal around with a total disregard for uniformity or best practices. This is no beauty contest after all:





Trim the bolts to an appropriate length and HOTT DAMN IT ACTUALLY FITS:



Put this in the impact wrench and and give it a rip. Whats that? Oh damnit. Your wonderful new tool just broke. Of course it broke. Did you see that thing? You didn't think that was going to work did you?

Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of these for $5:



Try this for a while until the tool breaks (it's Harbor Freight), you bust your knuckles up, throw your tools across the room while screaming profanities, and threaten to buy a Harley.

Grab a hammer and a screw driver and beat the ever-loving hell out of that thing:



That'll show'em.

Bearings pressed out and I'm realizing the rubber bushings aren't going to enjoy being in the oven when I powdercoat. They're looking kind of crusty anyway so I decide to remove them. From what I've read it's a major pain. I started by tapping some threads in the first bushing and using some all thread to push it out. It actually worked this time:







Right about now I'm thinking everyone else made a huge deal about this, that only took about 2 minutes. That was the only one that came out easy. With the next three, the rubber separated the inner and outer bushing as I tapped it. I was forced to use a larger tap (25mm) to tap the outer bushing. I was afraid I was going to tap the hub itself but after an hour of fighting the next three were out. All and all it wasn't that bad, I'm hoping to be able to find a set for a decent price though. Western Hills Honda told me they had "plenty in stock" and when I drove there they were all rusty and dried out just as bad as mine were. I'll have to check ebay for some NOS.







Turned out pretty good in the end. The rims are being stripped of chrome and rust by reverse electrolysis at the moment so they're next.



 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Ok it's been a while. I've been doing lots of little things here and there as time allows. I'm almost to the point where the frame will be ready for powder and I can actually start putting things back on the bike. Where we left off:

These hubs have been serious trouble. I'm glad I went to the trouble of replacing the bearings, and bushings, and retainers but it was not easy. The threads were so chewed up that there was no easy way of getting things out. I was able to clean them up a bit once they were free and put new All Balls sealed bearings in along with new dust seals and bearing retainers:





Next up I decided to tackle the swing arm. Stripped the old paint off and used the textured charcoal powder that you saw on the hubs (the whole frame will be this color). For professional results, make sure to have a professional caliber powder coating room:



Got new bronze swing arm bushings. I heated the swingarm with a heat gun, threw the bushings in the freezer for a couple hours, and used a small bit of assembly lube before pushing them in with a piece of all thread:





Next up I got to wheel building. I ordered black aluminum rims from MikesXs. I wasn't 100% happy with the quality and considered sending them back the outer lip was bent noticeably in a couple places. When I thought about the restock fee and shipping costs I decided to work with it. I talked to a local honda mechanic and he said they were "usable" but definitely not what new rims should be. Same goes for the spokes I bought off of ebay from Hong Kong. Usable but a few nipples would not twist on cleanly. They include a few extras so it's not a huge deal but they definitely did not respond to my emails. Buyer beware.





Powder coated the speedo housing and polished the disk a bit. Despite the frustrations I'm happy with the result:







I made some small tabs to mount my turn signals on:





All done:



Finally I bent up some 16 gauge sheet to make an electronics box. Yes, it's way thicker than it needs to be. This is the thinest sheet my welder will safely handle and I'm not much of a welder to begin with so I didn't want to take my chances. Worked out pretty well. I used a cheap sheet metal brake from harbor freight. The corners have a larger radius than I would have liked but it'll work out. This is where I'll store my new fuse block, pamco electronics, blinker, and regulator/rectifier:







The last image shows the bike with the new progressive suspension shocks at full compression. I have just enough room between the tire and seat to make this all work.

I'm considering my battery options at this time. One option is to loose the tool box and mount it there. I do like having a toolbox though so I'm not keen on that. Second option is to mount under the swing arm. I'm not running a center stand so I'm leaning towards this option at the moment. Step one is figuring out which battery I'll use. Ongoing discussion is here.
 

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If you use the side stand only. Hot asphalt and a side stand. You might come out with your bike taking a nap. Just a head's up. Weight is distributed more evenly with a center stand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I'm sure you're right, I just let my impatience get the best of me. I was going to but the mechanic I talked to reassured me that then would be safe, just a little annoying to get perfectly true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Just a quick update to let you guys know I'm alive:

I finally started putting things back on the bike and hot damn that's exciting!!! Finally feels like I'm making some progress. I GOT A ROLLER!!!

Fresh from the powder coaters:



Front end put together. Powder coated the triple tree and installed new All Balls steering stem bearings:



Back end and kick stand:



Mock up with tank and seat. The seat looks a little funny but that's because it's not bolted down. Once I mount it the bolts pull the seat down so that it follows the contours of the frame a little better:



Engine case installed:



I just ordered some superbike bars and a few other odds and ends. Carbs have been modded by Crazypj so I'm confident in the pods. Going to start on electrical real soon (which I'll be doing from scratch).
 

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I notice you are missing the White alternator wire to Yellow alternator wire connection ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Just a quick electrical update:

I'm trying to be as neat as possible with my wiring so I've been taking it slow. I've been rewrapping a lot of the torn casing in multiple layers of heat shrink for protection:



Used some friction tape where heat shrink would have been difficult:



Rebuilt (and simplified) my switch pods:



I'm going to wrap my pipes but was worried about rust. I decided to use some high temp paint before I wrap to hopefully slow the process down a bit:



And here's where she stands currently:



Does anyone know of a source for black gas tank trim? I don't know that it exits but would love to find some if so.
 
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