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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been tinkering with this bike since I got it a few months ago. There's been a number of nagging things I wanted to address so I decided to go all out (not quite sure what that means yet).

The weather is starting to change in ohio so i wheeled my bike into the basement for the winter as I don't have a garage...and yes, it was treacherous wheeling a bike down basement steps.

A few goals:

1. Several oil seals are leaking so I'm planning on replacing those.
2. Engine looks kind of rough as a result so I'd like to paint and polish.
3. Assess condition of engine internals. My serial number lacks the dots so I'm curious of the condition of the cam chain tensioner.
4. Bike is constantly running rich. I'd like to get that figured out.

As far as the bike running rich: I've never been able to use the choke on this bike. If I flip the choke on the engine just dies immediately. Me thinks there is not enough air for one reason or another. But that will wait. First task is the engine.

Here's what I started with:




I love this bike dearly. All and all she runs pretty good. The idea of me taking it completely apart despite having zero experience is a little stressful but sounds like a hell of a fun time.

I head it's easier to get the oil spinner off while the engine is on the frame so that was the first order of business:



I ran into an issue trying to remove the oil pump idle gear. The manual says to do this first by "lifting the idle shaft". I might have missed something completely but there is no way that things coming off without first removing the oil filter rotor. A little jumping out of order and it was free along with the clutch components:



At this point I started pulling the engine. Not easy to do on your own. Day 1 is complete and I've got the engine out of the frame:






It goes without saying, but I'm a complete newb at this type of work. I've read quite a bit here but there's a lot I'm unsure about. I welcome any tips or advice anyone has.
 

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Off to a good start man. Something about the change in the weather in Cincy gets me in the garage more often as well. I'm looking forward to watching your progress! What part of town are you in?
 

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Reminded me of taking my bsa to the basement. I found that backing it down allowed me more control because I could slow the decent down with the front brake.
To get it out, I would just start it up in the basement and let it's power lift it back up the stairs.
It looks like you're doing fine so far. There are many members here to help you step by step. I didn't have that with the bsa. NO internet, no manual, no camera to remember stuff....just little notes to self.....those were the days.....LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Off to a good start man. Something about the change in the weather in Cincy gets me in the garage more often as well. I'm looking forward to watching your progress! What part of town are you in?
Amen to that. Then we get a day like today which is perfect ridding weather and my bike is in pieces.

I'm in Clifton, Ludlow area. How about you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Day 2 complete so I thought I'd share my progress.

I tried to start dismantling the engine but that didn't last long. There's a screw above the part where the tach cable enters the engine that is completely rounded out. I assume it's what's holding the cable in because I don't know how the hell else it's coming out. Broke my only phillips head impact bit so I'm going to have to just wait.



There's a bolt right under the cable that is holding the head on so nothing else is happening to the engine for the time being. Also, ordered a brand new Eastwood MIG welder off of ebay. After wrestling with the engine this morning I've decided my first project will be some sort of an engine mount. The engine is just rolling all over my bench without one.


Also of note, I'm pretty used to my plugs being completely black as a result of running rich. I noticed that the left plug in particular is not the typical dry black, but had a bit of a shine to it. I believe this means oil fouled? I'm not sure what that could be from. It's definitely a small bit though...and hard to see in the pic:



I decided I'd get to work on the frame until I can get my engine troubles sorted out. Today was all about dismantling, taking notes, and labeling ziplock bags.





The wiring harness gave me stressed me out just looking at it so a part of me just wants to scrap it and start the electrical from scratch.



Not a bad day's work all and all. I've just about got a bare frame. Here's where I'm at currently:



I did end up with a part laying on the ground and I'm not sure where it came from. Looks like a spacer of some sort. Rear wheel spacer maybe?



Also. I'm almost positive I want to put scrambler pipes on here. If anyone has a decent pair of CL 360 pipes their willing to part with let me know!!!
 

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Looks like you are doing fine. Reminds me of taking mine down in the basement around 30 years ago. I don't remember how I got it back out. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Left rear motor mount spacer. Item 3 in the PIC. It is a pain as it is a pretty tight fit...It doesn't just slip on....Had to pry and tap to get it centered on the hole for the bolt.
Thanks for the good eye. Can I ask where you got the high quality image you attached? I've seen the parts images on cmsnl and other similar sites but they're always watermarked and in weird formats. I'd love to put together a file with all the images to print out if I can find them all.
 

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I hit a Honda dealer site fiche, snipped it (Win 7) and saved it....Every time I do one I save it....After a while, you have a lot of pages.

I had my engine out a year and a hal ago, and that spacer fell out too. I wasn't able to get the engine in with the spacer hanging on the bolt. I had to get the engine in place,, then use a bit of force to get the spacer started between the chassis and motor mount. Then tap in to place....

By the way, after getting the engine bolted in, and after running a little. Loosen all the motor mounts and retighten. Reduces/evens out the stress....you will find the bike is a little smoother...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So as I tag and bag all of these rusty parts I'm starting to think about what I'm going to do to make everything pretty again. A lot of the hardware is solid rust so I've been thinking about electroplating.

What do you guys generally do about old rusty hardware? I know chrome is a popular choice but it seems pretty expensive. Is nickel a decent alternative? I was looking at a small diy nickel plating kit but was curious if anyone had any experience.

Amazon.com: Electroless Nickel Plating Kit: Automotive
 

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for hardware, I change mine over to stainless steel.
 

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I've never tried the nickel plating but I suppose the experience at trying it out might be interesting. I would just swap out really rusted stuff for stainless also. For a cheap alternative give wood bleach (Oxalic acid) a shot. There are tons of information available on the internet.
 

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Stainless is a good option for low stress, mostly cosmetic bolts (engine side covers), but for any high stress bolt (engine case bolts) you need high grade alloy steel capable of handling the pre-load applied by the torque spec. That, along with what level of restoration you're going for, may lead you back to your current scenario and question regarding cleaning up the original hardware. Electroless nickel (or e-nickel) is a commonly used plating process in industrial applications, I have used it often (designing automated manufacturing equipment). It creates a tough, wear and corrosion resistant surface, with an appealing finish. Granted, the finish on e-nickel is dependent on what you start with, so take that into account. It also adds thickness to the material being plated (we usually spec .0003"-.0005") and you need to consider if this will affect your usage. For a threaded bolt, that may not be an issue, for a dowel pin on the other hand, it would cause problems. I would have no idea what to expect from a home applied kit though. You should also look into have the bolts zinc plated rather than chrome plated (the same shop should be able to do either). Zinc plate is a common finish for hardware but is far cheaper than chrome. Just my 2 cents. As always, other more experienced voices may have better advice.

I'm in Oakley by the way. Happy to lend a hand this winter if you ever need or want another set of eyes or some company!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks jake, nice to know someone in town is building the same bike incase I need to pick your brain. I might look into one of the cheap nickel/zinc kits in the near future for the hardware I don't replace.

So I started taking apart the front end today. Couldn't get the steering stem out because I need to go get a 30mm socket. I got the fork tubes out and ran into an issue. I removed the forks from the triple tree. I was trying to separate the lower fork from the rest of the fork (pic below). To do this you have to use an 8mm hex wrench and pull the screw. The first one came out no problem but the second one won't. The screw just spins endlessly:



I sat there and turned the allen wrench for several minutes with no luck. It's very difficult to turn also.

I think this means that the part it screws into (skinny tube in below pic) is spinning endlessly. What is supposed to prevent that skinny tube from spinning when you turn the bottom screw?



Any ideas?

(edit: to clarify the second picture was from the one that I managed to get apart.)
 

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Yeah, I had the same problem with one of mine. The FSM says to take the top nut off first but the problem is that the spring held down by that nut it what applies the force to the "bottom pipe" which is what that 8mm bolt threads into. Try putting the spring and nut back on (I'm assuming these are already out) and see if that lets you break the 8mm socket head free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the tip. Tried it out but still no luck. Posted in the suspension forum so hopefully I get a response.

The welder should arrive in the mail tomorrow so I'll get to work on an engine stand and start dismantling that.
 
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