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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to troubleshoot a 1974 cb360t
I did all the basic fuel delivery checks including cleaning the carbs and fuel lines and fuel tank vent and petcock.
No problems there.
Adjusted the points. While doing that I noticed that they spark. I don't know if they are supposed to do that. But they only spark intermittently. Timing is all set.
That took me to testing for spark. I get a weak spark on the right side and no spark on the right.
Used a condenser that I know is good and still no spark. I haven't tested the coils yet but found this:


Functional test.

If your spark plug boots are still installed, insert a spark plug in each one and arrange them so that the threads of each plug are touching the other. Each time you apply and disconnect 12v to the “gazinta” wires, both spark plugs should display a visible arc between the center electrode and the plug body electrode.

If your spark plug boots are removed, arrange the “gozouta” wires so that their ends are about 1/8 inch apart. Each time you apply and disconnect 12v to the “gazinta” wires, there should be a visible arc between the “gozouta” wires.

It is best to keep personal anatomy inventory well away from the “gozouta” vicinity during the functional test.
The coils believe you are a conductor, regardless of whether or not you have lead an orchestra, or handled tickets on a train, and will deliver a strong message to you if you provide the opportunity.

The 12v source should have a current capability of at least one amp.





Maybe someone could explain “gazinta” and “gozouta” to me.

anyhow- I noticed that the left coil is cold to the touch while the right coil is warm. What does that mean. Should they be warm or cold? Might that be the reason there is no spark on the left side?
what's up?
if the coils are good then where do I go next to figure out no spark?

I forgot to mention that I did get the bike to run for a few seconds but was too alarmed when the tach needle buried itself deep deep in the red and didn't notice if both cylinders were firing. Don't know if that helps.


thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks tbpmusic
i read that thread and that is how I checked the points. the gaps are .014 give or take at the widest. both sides just begin to open when their timing marks line up with the index mark. LF-left & F-right
I didn't do anything with the spark advance unit. How necessary is that at this point?

i didn't do this though-

"If the right side gap ends up being outside spec (0.3-0.4 mm), then adjust the left gap to max or min spec, re-time the left by turning the plate - then re-time the right by changing the gap, and check to see if it’s somewhere within specs.
You may have to do it several times."


I did the left by rotating the base plate then the right by changing the gap. that is where I stopped


this is what i need to know now

"anyhow- I noticed that the left coil is cold to the touch while the right coil is warm. What does that mean. Should they be warm or cold? Might that be the reason there is no spark on the left side?
what's up?
if the coils are good then where do I go next to figure out no spark?"

thanks
 

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I dont think you need to worry that one is hot and one is cold, it IS important that you dont leave the ignition on for too long when the bike is not running...as this will burn your coils out.

Do you have a multimetre? If so you should test the coils for continuity:

1. Primary winding - Coil stay bolt to Black/White wire.
2. Secondary winding - Coil stay to high-tension wire (plug caps removed)

If there is no continuity ya coils are shot :(

While your plug caps are off you should test its conductive resistance. If they read higher than say 5 ohms they will most likely be choking your spark and should be replaced with 0 ohm caps.

If you dont have a multimetre try swapping the coils over and note whether the problem shifts to the other side.

Good luck with it man :)
 

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Can't answer your hot/cold questions - the only ones I've seen really get hot were bad, but....

Put a plug in the spark plug cap on each side.
Then while "triggering" each point, see if the corresponding plug fires when the point sparks.
Make sure you hold the ground part of the plug against a head bolt or something,
Many times a bad plug will willingly send a spark across a half-inch of air to reach ground - but when you touch the base to ground, it won't spark to the electrode itself. You see that big ol' spark jump across to ground, and think the plug is fine - not.
Not sure why, but it happens to me all the time, especially if the bike is running rich even a little.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
got spark. when i got this bike just few weeks ago I never looked to see what spark plug they took. Just assumed that the
spankin' new plugs in there where right. Then after deciding to replace them just in case, I realized that they were the wrong plugs. Grabbed some spares for my 450 and it started right up.
NGK B8ES not B9ES. The guy who pretty much gave it to me did so because he just couldn't get spark. Should I feel bad?
 

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547 said:
The guy who pretty much gave it to me did so because he just couldn't get spark. Should I feel bad?
No! If he would have put in the time and effort you did, he'd still have it.
:)
 

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Hey 360fan, check your PM box, been trying to reach you.

Sorry for butting in here 547 :oops:
 
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