[mvalentine]

Hello All,

I have a 1974 CB360 that will not send power to the coils. I bought the bike as a non-runner. The wiring appears to never have been messed with. I have done some initial testing of the wiring with a multi-meter but not sure if I am using it correctly. The primary and secondary coils tested ok for continuity. Jumped started the solenoid and was able to turn over the electric starter.

Changes I have made on the bike so far: removed original controls, added a start/stop switch from a 2002 a VTR 1000 Honda, new battery, new ignition switch.

I need help with trouble shooting the starting circuit; how to use the multi-meter to test; whether or not I need an additional ground for the new start/stop switch; any other testing help with testing would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[spirograph]

Out of curiosity, how do you know the coils aren't getting power?

 

[mvalentine]

I turned the ignition key to "on". Then used a known working light tester clipping to one end to the engine for ground then sticking the metal pointer into connections where the condensers plug into the coil wire. No light. The coils don't warm up either.

 

[JamesPal]

Please explain the "Start/Stop Switch from a 2002 VTR 1000 Honda?" What switch, where did you put it and why. Pictures would help.

 

[mvalentine]

The stock controls that came with the bike were in bad shape. I had the VTR "ON/OFF switch eng available that I bought online. (Currently it is installed on the left handle bar for testing).

 

[mike in idaho]

Pull the gas tank off and test for battery voltage at the black/white wire connection on the coils. Test battery voltage at the black wire feeding the kill switch. Adjust the valves while the tank is off(it's a lot easier that way).

 

[J-T]

If you're checking for voltage at the coil when the points are closed, you won't find any. Either ensure the points are open or disconnect them.

 

[mvalentine]

-Tested the voltage on the black/white wire at the coils and got "000".
-Voltage at black wire feeding the kill switch---1.6 volts
-Already adjusted the valves
-Points are open
-Battery is new tested at 13.6 volts

 

[mike in idaho]

Retest the battery with the switch on and points closed. Next check the voltage drop in the wiring. Put the leads between the battery post and the black wire, it should show typically less than one volt if things are ok. If you see a big drop in voltage there, move to the key switch and check between the red wire and the battery terminal(tests the fuse holder) then between the red wire and black wire(tests the switch). If you want to power up the coils, to see if the thing runs, run a jumper wire between the battery post and the black/white wire connection.

 

[Gene]

Is the new switch grounded? I don't know much about electrics but I have heard of that being an issue.

 

[mvalentine]

-I retested the battery with the switch on and points closed. It dropped less than 1 volt.
-Tested the fuse holder OK
-Switch test 1.6V
-When I run the jumper from the battery to the black/white coil wire, I get 13.1V
-Tested on/off switch at 1.9 ohms

I know I must be missing something and new at electrical trouble shooting. Any other suggestions with details will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark

 

[mvalentine]

The switch is not grounded. Just clamped on at this point.

 

[mvalentine]

Also, FYI I don't have any of the headlight wiring connected due due to having to replace the light.

 

[mike in idaho]

The kill switch doesn't need to be grounded. Connect the black and black/white wires together(by-passing the kill switch) and see what you have.

 

[mvalentine]

I connected the black/ black and white together and have 13.V at the connection. This is with the ingnition in the off or first click on position. Why do I still have power in the off position?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[mike in idaho]

It's been a while since I saw a 360 up close but I believe it uses a three position switch, all the way counter-clockwise for off, one click clockwise for ignition on and two clicks clockwise for park light position. In park light position only the tail light gets power.

 

[mvalentine]

Yes, those are the correct switch positions for a cb360. Not sure if the switch is working properly.

- I unplugged the ignition switch from from the four prong plug. Then jumped the red and black wires. No voltage. I also ran a jumper wire from the positive on the battery to the black/white wire going to the coils. 13.6V.

So there appears to not be any voltage coming from the battery to the ignition switch. Do you have any suggestions for testing and trouble shooting this section?


We are getting closer.

 

[mike in idaho]

You could check that by unplugging the switch, everything should be dead then. Test between the black and red wire on the switch to see if it's open with the key turned off.

 

[mike in idaho]

Check the red wires going in and out of the fuse box, they should both show battery voltage.

 

[JamesTDoe]

Also, FYI I don't have any of the headlight wiring connected due due to having to replace the light.

I just put new bars on my bike, and had to get into the headlight bucket and all the wires in there.

I thought I had it all back together, and before replacing the headlight back into the bucket I tested the functions, Headlight worked, hi, low beam, turn signals worked, taillights, brakelight, and I bumped the starter to make sure it had power. I thought I was good to go, but when I had it all back together it turned out that everything worked except it wouldn't run - no power to the coils.

I had a couple of the black wires there in the headlight bucket/harness switched.

When you say you don't have any of the headlight wiring connected, are you just talking about the 3 wires to the headlight? If you have more stuff disconnected or hooked up incorrectly in that mess of wires that could be your problem (as I found out).

Good luck!