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You don't even need the rotor to run the engine, it's just part of the alternator and the bike will run off the battery for as short a time as you'll need to listen to it with the starter clutch not involved. If it runs without noise, then disassemble the starter clutch and carefully inspect ALL the parts. Also, the starter clutch has nothing to do with the engine kicking back on you... a timing change would cause that if it were suddenly too advanced at idle. Additionally, if the rotor isn't back on the woodruff key properly and not truly tight on the crankshaft, that could potentially contribute to the noise as well
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for the reply, I hastily removed the rotor once again, forgetting to film further video of the sound. Once I removed the rotor, I then unscrewed the three allen bolts from the face of the rotor, as well as the metal sleeve that surrounds the magnets. How do I remove the starter clutch from the rear of the rotor? Does it need to be in a vice? Also, what appears to be good news, I kicked the engine a few times, battery is low and it would not start the engine, probably due to an advanced timing issue like you said, however I did not hear any knocking sound, as I did when I would kick the engine with the rotor/starting clutch assembly attached.
 

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You REALLY need to post pictures of what you're describing. I'm not sure what allen bolts you're talking about in "the face of the rotor". While I realize you said it's a Rick's Hotshot rotor, I just looked at pictures of it and I see no allen bolts. I think there's something lacking in the communication on this situation that only pictures of everything involved will help clear up
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Attached are two photos of the rotor, which you will see three black in color allen wrench slotted bolts that of which hold the plate with the timing marks onto the front of the rotor. I took the bolts out before I put it back on to adjust the timing, it only removed the front plate, but I'm unsure how to remove the starter clutch from the rotor.
 

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Sensei
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Pull the cover holding the alternator windings first, then the Rotor must come off crankshaft......
You MAY phone for guidance.........
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Pull the cover holding the alternator windings first, then the Rotor must come off crankshaft......
You MAY phone for guidance.........
I did have the entire cover off, and I had also removed the rotor from the crank. It would make more sense if I had photos, but the only other bolts aside from the three in the pictures, are recessed near the starter clutch where I cannot reach them.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I have discovered that the 3 rear screws on the starter clutch housing were in fact not staked and had anti seize on the threads, and were able to be unscrewed with minimal force. Upon removing the 3 screws, the starter clutch stays attached to the rear of the rotor. Also, during the time I was checking my ignition timing, I discovered that it was extremely retarded and engaging the left coil approximately 90 degrees before It reached the LF mark on the compression stroke. The spark plugs were covered in soot and smelled of unburnt gasoline.
 

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I have discovered that the 3 rear screws on the starter clutch housing were in fact not staked and had anti seize on the threads, and were able to be unscrewed with minimal force. Upon removing the 3 screws, the starter clutch stays attached to the rear of the rotor. Also, during the time I was checking my ignition timing, I discovered that it was extremely retarded and engaging the left coil approximately 90 degrees before It reached the LF mark on the compression stroke. The spark plugs were covered in soot and smelled of unburnt gasoline.
I knew there was something more in play here... and I can't understand why anyone would use anti-seize on screws you would hope would NEVER come loose, and then not stake them as well. The starter clutch housing is only held to the back of the rotor by the 3 screws, so it is likely just a tight fit in the outer tabs of the Rick's rotor. Timing 90° before the LF mark is advanced - the very reason it kicked back on you so violently. Get the timing set properly, get the starter clutch inspected - including the outer housing shell for cracks - put it all back together correctly, screws tightened well and staked, and then see how it sounds
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I knew there was something more in play here... and I can't understand why anyone would use anti-seize on screws you would hope would NEVER come loose, and then not stake them as well. The starter clutch housing is only held to the back of the rotor by the 3 screws, so it is likely just a tight fit in the outer tabs of the Rick's rotor. Timing 90° before the LF mark is advanced - the very reason it kicked back on you so violently. Get the timing set properly, get the starter clutch inspected - including the outer housing shell for cracks - put it all back together correctly, screws tightened well and staked, and then see how it sounds
Where do I find stakes?
 

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You can stake them with a center-punch.......
Correct "stakes" are shown in post #13 of the "CB160 front wheel bearings" topic by Benjaminbowes1, center picture of the bearing retainer in the front wheel.....
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You don't FIND stakes, you DO them - like this. It keeps the screw from backing out
View attachment 305227
I'll be sure to do that once I successfully remove the starter clutch for examination. I'm going to Loctite as well. I'm currently speaking with the man that owns "Charlie's Place" ignitions, as I'm having some issues with getting my timing to set properly.

Thank you all very much for your help, it means a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I'll be sure to do that once I successfully remove the starter clutch for examination. I'm going to Loctite as well. I'm currently speaking with the man that owns "Charlie's Place" ignitions, as I'm having some issues with getting my timing to set properly.

Thank you all very much for your help, it means a lot.
All, attached is the updated video of the bike once I readjusted the timing, and attached the rotor with a disengaged starter clutch, the sound is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Glad you got it straightened out (y)
I removed the starter clutch housing from the rotor and low and behold, a complete crack near one of the screw holes. Would you happen to know where I could source a NOS housing? All of the ones on ebay look really crusty and worn out.

Thanks, Gary.
 

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I removed the starter clutch housing from the rotor and low and behold, a complete crack near one of the screw holes.
I suspected as much.
Here is the part number - 28120-286-000 - it's the same for a 350, but I don't see any NOS versions available in a quick search of the usual suspects. Here's one on eBay but the pictures won't enlarge and they're a bit dark, so it's not possible to confirm it doesn't have a crack in it either

 

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For that price I would be searching ebay for the entire assembly rotor and all. This one is $100 but has ALL of it


There are several that I have seen just quick glance that are much cheaper but look decent enough.
 
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