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Oh, she knows me well after almost 20 years... I would say "idiot savant", but I think more idiot than savant... do they have those in varied percentages? :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter #463
Appreciate it, Jim. I'll report back with what I find at the salvage yard tomorrow. If nothing, I'll order that one off of eBay. Amazon lost my package with my fluorescent orange needle paint, so it'll be a while before I button these things up anyway haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #464
While I wait for my eBay speedometer replacement to arrive, I will put the gauges project on hold and switch over to some other stuff.

Recently, I modified my stator cover to install my aftermarket three-phase stator from Sparck Moto (Sonrier on HT).

Because of the additional windings, three of the bolt tabs in the stator cover have to be removed. This is really a job for a drill press or other badass machinery, but I don't have access to such toys. I tried using a hole saw blade on a drill, which sorta worked but skittered around too much, putting a gouge in one of the tabs I needed to keep. After that, I resorted to drilling out the bolt holes with the biggest bit I had and then filing the rest away with raw manpower and a round file.

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The instructions show the material being removed until flush with the ID of the stator cover, but this isn't necessary. You just have to get it back far enough that the stator can slide past. I probably would have started with the safer drill-bit-and-file method had I known this from the start.

With the tabs removed, it's just plug and play from there.

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Discussion Starter #465
However, now that it's installed, I'm having trouble figuring out how to scribe a tick mark into it.

I used a Sharpie to mark the rotor in the place where the scribe mark on the original stator was, replaced the OG stator with the new one, and transferred the mark over from the rotor to the new stator. But as you can see, there isn't a metal plate in the winding to get a punch on.

ORIGINAL STATOR
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NEW THREE-PHASE STATOR
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Any ideas on how to permanently mark it? Also is my above "Sharpie method" going to be accurate enough?
 

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I used a fine brush with model paint for the mark and also the timing indicator marks on the rotor. Then I hit everything with a shot of clear to seal it.
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For the 3 wires coming out I made a temp mold of the section and filled it with JB Weld. After it cured a couple days I drilled it for the wires to pass thru and sealed everything in place using liquid electrical tape.
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The wires need to be in this position and pushed hard against the cover so there's no chance of the starter chain making contact.
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Discussion Starter #467
Those are great tips. So you must have taken the yellow wires out of the connector and sleeving in order to feed them through your custom JB Weld potting?

Great way to scribe the stator, too. I'll be doing that with the fluorescent orange acrylic I bought to freshen my meter needle tips. Just curious, I see your small tick mark is TDC, but what's the long mark you made?
 

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Yeah, doing it the way I did required cutting the spade connectors off as well. If I did it again I think I would try to figure out a way to set the wires in the middle of the mold area and then add the JB. It would probably make it harder to get a good fill though and keeping the wiring from moving while curing means you can't do anything around it that might disturb it.
I decided that since there's no fixed TDC mark on the stator to make a secondary one just in case the primary one got wiped out. It's the only flat coil so it marked good.
 

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Discussion Starter #469
I made it up to the bike last night (lame being 1.5 hours away from my project but that’s what apartment life gets ya) and did some work on the stator.

Got a new bullet and spade terminal on the neutral wire with heat shrink.






Then I used LDR’s method of scribing the stator. I was on the right track with sharpie and TBH my sharpie mark was just a half-mm off, but it’s much brighter with the orange paint and sealed under a few shots of clear.

I just made one mark though and didn’t mark the rotor with orange.




Now before I pop this bad boy in the bike, is there a trick to getting those male spade terminals out of the plastic connector? Maybe a locking tab situation?

In the Sparck Moto stator instructions, the sub harness is just magically in the oil seal at the back of the drive sprocket cover, and you definitely have to take the connector off to make that happen.


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If they're like most I've worked with, they have a tiny lock tab on one side of the connector inside each slot in the plastic block connector. You'll need something thin to get in beside the terminal to push the tab back and allow it to come out of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #471
Ok that’s what I thought. My weapon of choice last night must have been too thick.

In other news, my battery box is done and it looks awesome! Haven’t seen it in person yet but from the pic, I think I’ll be quite satisfied. Can’t wait to pick it up this weekend.

Best part was the price...1 bottle of wine. Im sure the guy being my childhood best friend’s dad has nothing to do with it




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Yeah, I cut an old feeler gauge blade to make a small enough one to bend the lock tab out of the way. Be sure to lift those a little before re-inserting.
Next piece of fun is fitting a grommet on the harness that will also fit the cut-out slot in the case the harness used to run thru. You really need to secure the harness with one so it can't get hit by the chain. I didn't keep any notes on the size I ended up with.
 

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Eye Glass screwdriver for releasing those small tabs in the spade connectors. - Works great.
 
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Discussion Starter #474
Switching tacks, my new speedometer has a stripped screw holding in the trip meter knob. Is there a trick to getting that out without destroying the mechanism? Can I drill it or will I be left with a stub I can’t remove anyway?


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I'm sure what you mean is a stripped head of the screw. The issue is complicated, because it would be hard to get out without causing damage. If you had another trip meter knob you could carefully grind off the plastic until you got down to the screw depth, then you'd have more options to get the screw out. But if you don't have a spare knob...I guess drilling the head off the screw would work, but man it would be tricky and tedious
 

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Discussion Starter #478
Try turning it righty loosey. Some of the trip meter screws are left hand thread.
Well that’s just a dirty trick! Sadly, the head is completely gone and turning it “righty loosely” doesn’t help.

Fortunately I have a dremel and a spare plastic knob. Using Tom’s suggestion to grind down the plastic, I got a needle nose around the stripped head and it came free.





It was lefty loosey for the record


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Discussion Starter #480
PROGRESS UPDATE: I finished up the left side of the motor the next day.

First I marked the stator using LDR's idea of orange acrylic and a shot of clear. It was difficult to measure perfectly because the coils protrude out from the surface of the rotor, making me measure on an uneven plane. But I came up with a mark just a hair off of my earlier sharpie mark, so I think I'm darn close if not right on.

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Next I worked on the electrical, starting with dressing up the neutral wire I cut away from the OEM sub harness. I simply cleaned it up and crimped on a a male bullet (4 mm) on one end and a male spade terminal on the other end. I applied some solder and heat shrink for a strong connection.
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That was added into the new sub harness with electrical tape. I used the self-vulcanizing tape that came with the kit to make a seal for the harness where it exits the rotor area, because I'm not well-equipped enough to make a cool JB weld mold like LDR. Although admittedly that sounds like the better way.

Sadly my box knife terminal remover was to flimsy to bend the locking tabs of the female spades in the plastic connector block at the end of the sub harness, so I ended up cutting my D-shaped rubber grommet that goes at the back of the drive sprocket cover in order to get it around the wire. Hopefully it holds.

Lastly I put it all together.
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