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Discussion Starter #1
Finally started work on my CL175, I bought it in June just (hours) before I returned to the UK, I am now back visiting my daughter and family again.



I have cleaned the right carb, still have to do the left, it appears I have to remove the exhaust to get the air filter cover and filter off. The right filter seems to have been the host to a rodent at some time. I am waiting for a condenser to arrive, then hopefully I will be able to start it, the fuel tap seems clear with good flow through it. The main problem I have is the muffler which has rotted through, pics below, has anyone ever tried cutting out the damaged section welding in a patch and had it rechromed?
 

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Sensei
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If you get a "perfect" weld, the repair will still show, and it will cost LARGE to re-chrome, as it will be a large square inch piece.... I think it costs about $150 (each)just for a short CB headpipe, and yours are much "bigger", especially the header with the muffler welded on..... That $400+ or so probably would buy a NOS exhaust if you can find it....JMHO... I'd saw it off and run Volkswagen "tips".....Steve
 

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thanks for that otr002 the first is off the sloper engine version so will not fit but the second one looks the part.
thanks again 66sprint but I would prefer the standard look.
 

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I sort of knew you would... Just didn't want you spending all that $ on a re-chromed repaired one when decent used or NOS are available.... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cleaned both carbs now, the previous owner seems to have lost half the choke linkage, does anyone have one to sell?


Below is a picture of the damaged air filter, possibly rodent attack.


It also has a rear rack on which I would like to take off, but looking at it I think the brackets for the indicator stalks are missing, can someone confirm and tell me what is missing and again if anyone has the parts to sell.

While on this point the rear seat hoop fitted to 1973 model has been removed possibly to fit the rack, if anyone has one I would like to buy, the rack will probably be sold then.
 

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Malcolm, I have a spare choke linkage half for you.....I'll need a "shipping" address, e-mail your info to me as [email protected] ......

All of my (K6 and earlier) Vertical 175's use the bolt-on rear frame brace/seat bracket as the mount for the signals.... Yours looks to be the welded-on version, so I assume you are correct about the mounts being integral with the seat rail like the bigger twins..... I never had a K7.....
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Steve e-mail sent.

If you get chance could you perhaps post a picture of your K6 setup so I could compare, I thought the K6 & K7 were the same apart from the hand rail.
 

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Don't currently have the K6, and truthfully can't remember if the "loop" was bolted or welded.... I have some of the bolt-on brackets from the earlier "K's"..... Will mail the "eye bolt" that is the 1/2 linkage Monday AM...
 

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otr002 said:
Have a look at the fich on http://www.cmsnl.com it shows a different story....

Rod from OZ :cool:
Ok looking at that maybe the indicators fit on the rear grab rail which was probably removed to fit the rack. Steve I understand now about the bolt on/welded rear hoop, learning a lot here thanks to you both.
I know my persistance to return things to original can be annoying so thanks again for your patience.
 

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malcolmgb said:
I know my persistance to return things to original can be annoying so thanks again for your patience.
Can I get an AMEN! :D Dude, I hear ya! Good luck with all that retro-fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got the exhaust, thanks Rod, but not fitted it yet.
Got the choke link, thanks Steve.
Managed to get it running today, family out at a childs birthday party so found some time, unfortunately it wouldn't run below about 3,000 RPM so looks like I have issues with slow running circuit in carbs, I stripped and cleaned them at start but do not have an air line, any ideas on how to clean them further, Simple Green?. I might not be able to ship it back on this visit, any idea if a CL175 will fit in the back of a Honda Pilot, didn't want to hire a van to get it to Newark Port.
 

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malcolmgb said:
otr002 said:
Have a look at the fich on http://www.cmsnl.com it shows a different story....

Rod from OZ :cool:
Ok looking at that maybe the indicators fit on the rear grab rail which was probably removed to fit the rack. Steve I understand now about the bolt on/welded rear hoop, learning a lot here thanks to you both.
I know my persistance to return things to original can be annoying so thanks again for your patience.
On my 350K5 they mount onto the grab bar like you said, it probably is the same. I'm not certain though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Had a better day with it today, managed to get it to run a bit slower then rode up and down the drive a few times. Think only 1 carb has the slow run circuit problem, the air screw makes a difference on only the left carb, stripped the right again and the jet appeared blocked, left it soaking in simple green. Also found that the right carb slide sticks if the carbs are tightened fully, seems the body distorts, slackened off just a touch and all free, may have to try Steve's gasket trick.
My carbs have a '20' cast into the top, I looked in the Honda manual and it says the CL should have '22' carbs, is it me being neurotic or has someone swapped carbs?
 

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Malcolm, As well as I can remember, all the stock vertical 175 carbs (regardless of the actual venturi size) have 20 cast on top... I'll check the several sets I have to verify for you.... ( Three sets of them are CL carbs )......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Steve, I will measure the venturi tomorrow if I can find a metric rule here at my daughters, they seem to be rare here in the US.
Another problem has come to light, I cannot get the exhaust gasket which goes between the left front pipe and the right pipe/muffler, the two pipe diameters are about 1/4" different, any idea what I can use to pack out and seal the gap? some sort of fire proof webbing I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All running fine now, checked the carbs they seem to be a 22mm bore.
Spoke to a local Harley motorcycle shop http://www.blacksmithcycles.com/ he recommended some header wrap for my exhaust problem, even gave me a small piece and said when he did a similar job recently he put a smear of hi temp silicon seal on, so will now replace the exhaust hopefully before I leave on Saturday.
 
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