[captdave]

Hello all I'm working on a 1972 CL350 with 16000 miles on it. When I'm in motion and apply the rear brake I hear a loud clunk and the brake lever bumps. I thought I had a loose shoe. I dissembled the rear tire and brake. Shoes were fine on further examination I discovered the brake stop bar, shoulder bolt and mounting bracket where it connects to the swingarm has ware. The brake stop bar is no longer available. I ordered the shoulder bolt that connects the brake stop bar to the swingarm.
I don't think the new bolt is going to be enough to fix this problem. I am thinking of drilling out the swingarm mounting bracket along with the brake stop bar and having a bushing made for the shoulder bolt to take up the play. Anyone have any better ideas? i'm all ears.

Thanks, captdave

 

[J-T]

First off, welcome to the group. As long as you're here how about looking this over:

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/23-member-introductions/121120-critical-read-before-posting.html

Sounds to me like you have a good plan but I'm sure others here who have dealt with your problem will be along with more ideas.

BTW, I moved your post to the 350 section of the forum.

 

[doode]

Yep, make sure that brace is nice and firm and all faster end are secure.

 

[Yendor]

I think I might have someone weld up the hole in the bar then re-drill it before making it oversized.

 

[captdave]

Long story short. The new shoulder bolt was of no help. The mounting bracket on the swingarm was the main problem. It was worn and out of round.
I had a machine shop rebore the hole and the stop bar to 7/16th. He then made a sleeve that threaded on to a new bolt this simulated the old shoulder bolt with an outside diameter of 7/16th minus a thousandth on an inch.
Cleaned and powder coated the swing arm and stop bar. They were rusty and in need of some sprucing up.
Reassembled all parts and it works like new. What an improvement.

 

[go_hercules]

Hey captdave, I've got the same situation. I was thinking, what if I rebored the hole and stop bar to 7/16 just like yours - but then put a 7/16 diameter clevis pin through, instead of the sleeve and screw. Would save me some machining. Something like this:

 

[captdave]

I think that would work. I would make sure all tolerances are very close and there is no play in the pin, stop bar and swingarm bracket. I greased the area and will do so a few times a year. The good thing about the shoulder bolt is you can place a washer on the end with a nut eliminating any side play and you have a second safety backup in the event either the cotter pin falls out or the nut becomes loose. I added a third safety measure and placed Locktite on the nut. Not a good thing if the stop arm becomes disconnected.
Mine is all back together and what a difference. Smooth as silk. Good luck let us know how it comes out.