Thank you!The behavior of the clutch is most likely normal, it's a multi-plate wet clutch that only disengages a few millimeters and always has some "fluid-friction" feel to it. Even when the engine is warm and running in gear with the bike on the centerstand, if you pull in the clutch lever the rear wheel will continue to spin unless you hold it still with your hand, foot or the rear brake - totally normal.
1972 CL175 (K6)
Here's an update on the bike since joining the forum and posting my member introduction. I'd say I'm a little over half way through the new bike checklist (Basic Checklist for that New to You old Bike), and thank goodness for all the things it tells you to check.
I freed up the frozen clutch (thank you longdistancerider) but might need to end up replacing the discs as the clutch is still stiff and doesn't like to spin freely with the lever depressed (even with adjustment). Is that normal?
The fuel tank is back on (with new fuel lines/tubing), but when attempting to start the bike to see if it would now run better with all the love, no luck. There is spark on both cylinders and good compression, so I'll be checking for fuel problems after I post this.
One final question that is on my mind. I used 10W30 in the front forks like the FSM said, but I've never heard of using it instead of fork oil. Should I use 10W30 like the FSM says or would anyone recommend a better option for fork oil?
Thank you all for your time and your help! I thank especially, longdistancerider and ancientdad for personally reaching out to help me. I hope to get this bad boy on the road soon enough.
I freed up the frozen clutch (thank you longdistancerider) but might need to end up replacing the discs as the clutch is still stiff and doesn't like to spin freely with the lever depressed (even with adjustment). Is that normal?
The fuel tank is back on (with new fuel lines/tubing), but when attempting to start the bike to see if it would now run better with all the love, no luck. There is spark on both cylinders and good compression, so I'll be checking for fuel problems after I post this.
One final question that is on my mind. I used 10W30 in the front forks like the FSM said, but I've never heard of using it instead of fork oil. Should I use 10W30 like the FSM says or would anyone recommend a better option for fork oil?
Thank you all for your time and your help! I thank especially, longdistancerider and ancientdad for personally reaching out to help me. I hope to get this bad boy on the road soon enough.
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Monday update for the bike:
Regarding the bike not starting, I read others' posts here about their bikes suddenly refusing to start and things they did to remedy their situations (thank you). From their experiences and some initial diagnosis on the bike, I gathered that the battery might need to be fully charged.Sure enough that did the trick.
In other news, both crankcase sidecovers are leaking from the bottom at the mating surface after the oil change and clutch inspection. I am going to order new gaskets to fix the leaks. Do I need to use a particular sealer on these gaskets or just the gasket itself in between two clean surfaces? I've only replaced gaskets on cast iron and I'm not terribly familiar with aluminum.
Thanks for all the help and for this wonderful community!
![307454]()
![307455]()
Regarding the bike not starting, I read others' posts here about their bikes suddenly refusing to start and things they did to remedy their situations (thank you). From their experiences and some initial diagnosis on the bike, I gathered that the battery might need to be fully charged.Sure enough that did the trick.
In other news, both crankcase sidecovers are leaking from the bottom at the mating surface after the oil change and clutch inspection. I am going to order new gaskets to fix the leaks. Do I need to use a particular sealer on these gaskets or just the gasket itself in between two clean surfaces? I've only replaced gaskets on cast iron and I'm not terribly familiar with aluminum.
Thanks for all the help and for this wonderful community!
News since last post:
Bike stopped running again and nothing I did could get it fixed. Thankfully my more experienced friend volunteered to come by and had it running in a few minutes.
As soon as we were fixing to take it out for it's first test run, the RPMs started rising out of control and we had to hit the kill switch to keep it from going over redline. Just as with my last post, I searched the forum here and found lots of great information on what might be causing this.
www.hondatwins.net
www.hondatwins.net
www.hondatwins.net
I tightened both intake manifolds to make sure there was no air leak there, felt for exhaust somehwere it shouldn't be, and checked for stuck throttle. None of those were the issue.
I then took out one spark plug at a time (maintaining ground so they would still spark) and found that only the right cylinder would rev out control while the left one would run fine and idle normally. Therefore I figured it was a carb problem with the right carburetor.
After taking apart and cleaning the right carburetor, the problem was solved. It idles correctly and the revs don't rise uncontrollably.
I forgot to take pictures of the work unfortunatley so this will just be a text post. Thanks again for all the help here on the forum!
Bike stopped running again and nothing I did could get it fixed. Thankfully my more experienced friend volunteered to come by and had it running in a few minutes.
As soon as we were fixing to take it out for it's first test run, the RPMs started rising out of control and we had to hit the kill switch to keep it from going over redline. Just as with my last post, I searched the forum here and found lots of great information on what might be causing this.
RPM's soar after starting
Can't figure out what has happened here to my 72 CB 350. After installing a new cross over tube on my fuel tank due to a brand new leaking quick disconnect I had just installed, I started the bike and the engine RPM's took off climbing very rapidly at which point I hit the kill switch to shut it...
www.hondatwins.net
rpm's are out of control
So I've been having some trouble with the cb350k2 lately. It will run just fine for a while, and then randomly when I stop, the rpm's will skyrocket up to 5k (in both neutral or in gear). The throttle tube isn't sticking, the cables are not stuck or pinched, and the carbs are not engaged from...
www.hondatwins.net
New Rider with a problem
What a way to introduce myself! I'm a brand new rider and I have a 1980 Honda CM400A. I've had it about 2 weeks and it ran great at first but now it won't even idle, there's no acceleration and as I put along in 1st gear, all of a sudden it will backfire and rev up to super high RPM's , to...
www.hondatwins.net
I tightened both intake manifolds to make sure there was no air leak there, felt for exhaust somehwere it shouldn't be, and checked for stuck throttle. None of those were the issue.
I then took out one spark plug at a time (maintaining ground so they would still spark) and found that only the right cylinder would rev out control while the left one would run fine and idle normally. Therefore I figured it was a carb problem with the right carburetor.
After taking apart and cleaning the right carburetor, the problem was solved. It idles correctly and the revs don't rise uncontrollably.
I forgot to take pictures of the work unfortunatley so this will just be a text post. Thanks again for all the help here on the forum!
1 - 4 of 6 Posts
