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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To replace original RH switch that had non functioning engine cutoff, I recently purchased a NOS, unused, RH switch on EBay. I routed the wiring through the handlebars and am trying to install new throttle cable. But the original screws bottom out with about a 2 to 3 mm gap between the two halves. I think the two clamshell halves are supposed to meet with no gap between them and at the bar cutouts to keep out rain and water.

Not sure what is the issue: screws too long? Halves not made correctly? Internal switch components contacting the bar first? I thought that if the switch body is aluminum, I might try dremeling the bar cutouts. But I don't want to make the situation worse by creating gaps.

Any feedback with a solution or suggestion of how to assess the problem without destroying the switch will be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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There is a locating pin which needs to locate in a hole in your handlebars before the two halves can close; is it located in its hole? It's to stop the switches from rotating round the bars and is necessary.
HTH
Nigel.
 

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Pictures would help.
 

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It's been my experience the usually you end up with a small gap that you can position on one side or the other.
I usually position the gap to the rear to keep water out of the front. Of course that means I have to look at the annoying gap while I'm riding.
At least that's how the controls are on my Honda's with stock controls and bars.
The earlier years do seem to fit a bit better, perhaps Honda relaxed the spec in later years when they were doing everything they could to keep up with demand.

Your NOS control could have been made any time in the '70's clear up into the '90's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The pin is located in the hole. Thank you all for the feedback. But I think the housing is just the result of what has been suggested - Honda's effort to keep up with demand. This is where I am now: I dremeled the front and rear cutouts of the top half. By rear I mean the partition that separates the throttle tube (or pipe) from the switch section. Most of the gap is now gone, but I can send pics if needed.

The bigger, directly related issue is the headlight bucket wiring dilemma, created by installing the replacement RH switch. I'm a complete novice with motorcycle wiring. (I have diagrams but the logic hasn't sunk in yet.) The bike came with ape hangars, and both the RH and LH control switch harnesses were extended into the bucket with separate strands of red wire. Everything worked except the engine cutoff switch on the RH control. After installing the new RH control switch and connecting the like color wires in the headlight bucket: the headlight, taillight, and turn signals work, but rear brake light stays on as if the pedal is depressed. (The pedal and foot brake switch are adjusted properly.). Starter and horn do not work, but both have continuity. I should mention that there was/is one female brown connector in the bucket that wasn't wired to anything, which could be normal. Except for the red extenders, nothing else was spliced and the wiring appears to be unmolested and original.

Gixxer-18's 2015 post to Scotty Rebels was very helpful in understanding some of the wiring. Unfortunately the pics provided at that time did not reveal enough to explain the black (power?) wires. There are two solid black and one B/W wire coming out of the RH control harness. Wiring diagram says the B/W is the engine cutoff. I tested the continuity of that wire with a probe on it and the handlebar, turning the cutoff switch on and off. In the bucket is a four-way connector with a B/W in and a black in. I've tried various combinations, but I always get the rear brake light but no horn or ignition

Attached should be two pics, I can send more. Any help is appreciated.

John

Cb350 k4-img_0173.jpg
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Cb350 k4-img_0172.jpg

Eureka!!!

With the help of a forum discussion in 2011 (credit goes to "dirt3rats"), I think the bucket issue is resolved. The short answer is that wires had been intentionally misconnected, but now all electrical functions as it should. To help me remember, I'd like to explain.

The original engine cutoff did not work. To avoid the problem, the b/w of the main harness was connected directly to the four-way black connector in the bucket, which I think bypassed the engine cutoff switch. I recall that when I first opened the bucket, the b/w from the RH switch was connected directly to a black wire (not sure which one) in the bucket. Seemed odd.

After reading dirt3rats's post, and studying a colored wiring diagram, it clicked. I connected the main harness b/w to the RH switch b/w and plugged the other blacks into the four-way. Turned the key, everything worked, but the brake light was still "hot". Nuts! Back to the diagram. But wait! The front brake switch in the circuit was not installed in the perch. Problem solved.

This is probably basic to some. And sorry if it is too wordy. But I would ask anyone reading this to please comment if the explanation is incorrect. This would help me learn.

Many thanks to the people and the forum.
 
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