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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post and unfortunate circumstances for finally joining the discussion. I just moved to Boston a day ago after a beautiful ride up from Philly on my CB350, parked, and came out to find that someone had knocked it over. While it could have been worse, the fall did some damage, primarily to the right handle switch. The casing is pretty much done, brake lever dangling, etc. I got a little over-hasty and dismantled everything (losing one of the tiny springs in the process). So now I'm looking everywhere for a replacement for the right handle switch in good condition and can only find switches for the 72 CB350F, 72-73 500, and a number of similar years and bikes. So my questions are 1) are there right hand switches that will fit with the 71 350, 2) whether I can use a switch that just has the on/off for the headlight and not the high/low/off that the 71 had, and 3) how far over my head I am as a novice. Help much appreciated.
 

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Check this thread. It looks like he came up with a brand new one. Maybe send a PM and ask where he got it?

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That certainly looks like exactly what I'm looking for. I PM'd and will hopefully find out where he got it. I checked the website from the link and there weren't any right hand switches for my year. In general I've found it difficult to find certain parts for the 71 350, though there is an abundance of stuff for the 350F, much of which doesn't work for my bike. I found a salvage part in pretty rough shape at a huge markup, which might have to be the solution, which would be shame since the bike is otherwise in such perfect condition.
 

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ebay has an abundance of new and used ones every day.

search for cb or cl 350 switch
you can also look up the part numbers and search that way.

the same switches were used on several models and the part number will show you which ones
 

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The part number for the switch and harness is 35300-317-671. It is NLA (No Longer Available), and even David Silver Spares shows no stock. You might try eBay and do a search on that number. I just did and had to chuckle. Some guy has one listed as NOS (New Old Stock) that looks like it has been through a war zone. He didn't even wash the dirt and dust off before he took a picture. He only wants US $149.99 and it says New condition all over his listing. Aside from that pirate, there are other listings -- none is cheap.

You can also post a "wanted to buy" listing on this forum. There are some good people on here and someone may help you out. Click here.

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I had an ebay alert setup for the switch and was searching pretty frequently to see if anything new was listed. I was also searching some of the vintage and salvage parts sites with the number from the parts manual and wasn't coming up with anything. But I did finally come across a pretty used salvage part, which I was assured has been tested. Only thing left to do is to put it on, which, if my history working on anything to do with electrical systems is any indication, will not go well.
-Jeffrey
 

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Probably the worst part of that job will be getting the wires down through the inside of the handlebars. I haven't done that since about 1973, so it may not be as bad as I recall. If your old switch is toast, you could cut its wires at the switch location, tie on a piece of string or flexible wire, then pull the old wire out from the middle of the bars -- dragging the attached "snake" along with them. Then you can attach the new wires to the "snake" and pull it all through.

After that, just match up your color coded wires and you should be fine. Good luck with it.

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's a great idea, Ray. I'll have to see when the switch arrives (which has the wires) whether the existing wires or the new wires are in better condition. I may end up soldering the new switch to the old wires. But if it turns out that the "new" unit is in better shape I will definitely use your snaking idea. Great suggestion.
 

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There's no reason to remove any wires if the old wires are good.
There's no soldering needed

just disassemble the old switch and install the old wires into the replacement housing.

there is only one part that is difficult...removing and reinstalling the on/off switch...there is a tiny C clip that is a pain. the rest is very easy if you go slow and pay attention not to loose the tiny springs and balls.\

removing 40 year old wires is 100 times more difficult than working with new pliable stuff. Avoid running wires if at all possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright, so I got the old wires out of the handlebars and the new harness in. I had to try a number of things including trying to pull them through with a wire and with twine. That didn't end up working, so I bundled the wire ends with electrical tape tightly then tightened them with 2 very small cable ties at the very end, to which i tied some string to pull them out when they reached the other end. Then I coated the outside of the harness in a little baby powder (an old trick from changing bicycle tires) and pushed them through. Wasn't hard at all.

BUT. New problems have arisen. I stupidly didn't mark the wires before I disconnected them and now I'm not sure everything is properly connected. What I'm really wondering about is whether there were two bundles that originally ran from the right hand switch. There is the main bundle with 9 wires, then a second bundle of two wires that went to my kill switch (with a black wire and a green and yellow wire). I don't know how to attach the green/yellow and black to right hand switch or whether it's necessary, but do remember disconnecting them from the switch. The right hand switch I just got didn't come with these wires, which makes me think that it was custom by a previous owner. I've looked at endless wiring diagrams and see that the green/yellow and black run from the stop switch. But why wouldn't it be a part of the main harness? And how would I take of the switch to attach it, if in fact I need to do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry to bother, but I have spent an ton of time looking at manuals and wiring diagrams trying to figure out if the wires to the front stop switch (black and green/yellow) on the 71 are supposed to be run separately to the right hand switch outside of the handlebars (or whether this was a modification by a previous owner). And if so, how they are supposed to be connected to the switch. I'd be grateful if anyone knows this.
 

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Yes indeed. They are in a separate little harness outside the handlebars. They don't connect to the switch pod at all. The little harness has a small switch with a tiny plastic plunger sticking out of it. This goes to the brake lever perch. When you squeeze the lever to apply your front brake, the inside end of the lever comes away from the perch, letting the springloaded little plunger come out the end of the switch, making contact and turning on your brake light. Seems flimsy, but it works very well. My Harleys have a very similar setup. Maybe they copied it from Honda?

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you. I have no idea how I overlooked that. Once you pointed it out it became embarrassingly clear. I reattached those wires, the throttle cable, and the brakes too. When I started it up again the throttle was open, so I adjusted it, but couldn't seem to get it to idle normally. Turning was also causing the throttle cable to pull (not a great outcome). I replaced the rubber cover that prevents the throttle cable from sticking on the tank and thought it was fixed. But then when turning the handlebars again it felt like it pulled on the main harness (perhaps it was too far into the bucket) and the whole thing went dead. I can't tell if this was just coincidence, and really I reconnected something improperly (there is a brown female wire in the bucket without a mate) and it shorted, or if it disconnected something that would affect the whole system. Nothing works now. Now neutral light, no headlight, no turn signal, no starter button. Nothing. Does this sound more like a short or like I pulled a wire loose?
 

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Check your fuses first.
 
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