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^^^+1 on Vesrah gaskets, I've used them many many times and have never had any issues. You can get a good price on a set of oil seals here, their seals are throughout my 450 engine and work fine, and are a great value
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Cam arrived and is being ground. Waiting on word to see how bad my head is. Waiting on word from Japan about the pistons (no shipping info yet). Basically all I'm doing is waiting and cleaning gasket off the lower end. I have the new cam chain, just waiting to install it when I can do more than just add a chain.

It got me thinking about electronic ignition. I just added new points and don't have a problem setting them. Is there any benefit to adding an electronic ignition to these bikes other than maintenance? I don't care about it being mechanically original, I just want a swiss watch engine.
 

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They've been real good on communication with me. You might email them and check https://www.cruzinimage.net/contact/ . Also check your Junk/Spam email folder.
I know the wait game real well, started assembly of the engine Saturday with the transmission and final hard check of the bearings revealed my small counter shaft bearing was sticking, found the shaft pitted, and the large mainshaft bearing hangs @once every 30-40 revolutions. So new bearings and both shafts are in transit from Netherlands and PA. Thank you David Silver Spares and CMSNL. I could have just replaced the mainshaft bearing but for $9 more I get a new shaft as well. So while I wait I'll start working on sub-assemblies for the bike, swing arm, steering stem, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
So my pistons will be in today so I'm getting close. It's coming down to exhaust choosing time. My headers are fine, but was hoping to get a few suggestions on what I should do for my swiss cheese mufflers. So far I've looked at these, I'd like to be close to stock as I can with this since it's my first bike and need to keep my center stand.

* https://4into1.com/chrome-dunstall-style-replica-muffler-reverse-cone/
* https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB350-2-Into-2-Black-Chrome-Reverse-Cone-Exhaust-System/151475415200?fits=Model:CB350&hash=item2344a368a0:g:MOoAAOSwcuNdtwyz
* https://4into1.com/mac-black-2into2-reverse-cone-exhaust-honda-cb350-twin/

I know these are wildly different options and will go with just the mufflers if you guys think they will be fine. I'd rather get those than spend $125/pair and $60 shipping from CM if possible.
 

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Honda primary pipes are double walled, 2 pipes in one. This retains heat in the exhaust gasses and also prevents rust thru of the pipes generally.
Mac exhausts are single wall pipes.
David Silver has the right muffler for $465, no left. CMSNL doesn't have either one.
There is a complete used CB250 exhaust, same bike smaller engine, here. https://www.jauce.com/auction/x626298675 22,000 Yen is @$200 plus shipping from Japan but only 1.5 days left on the auction.
Other obscure sourcing I have shows nothing available.
In aftermarket you might look at Emgo mufflers, Here's the catalog, mufflers start on page 208
This one looks close 80-84034 or maybe this one 80-84051
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Honda primary pipes are double walled, 2 pipes in one. This retains heat in the exhaust gasses and also prevents rust thru of the pipes generally.
Mac exhausts are single wall pipes.
David Silver has the right muffler for $465, no left. CMSNL doesn't have either one.
There is a complete used CB250 exhaust, same bike smaller engine, here. https://www.jauce.com/auction/x626298675 22,000 Yen is @$200 plus shipping from Japan but only 1.5 days left on the auction.
Other obscure sourcing I have shows nothing available.
In aftermarket you might look at Emgo mufflers, Here's the catalog, mufflers start on page 208
This one looks close 80-84034 or maybe this one 80-84051
Thanks Jim. It looks like the ones at 4into1 are Emgo mufflers.
 

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I've put the Emgo mufflers on a few 350's and used the ones with the removable baffle and repacked the mufflers with additional packing before putting them onto the bike.
They tend to be loud/tinny and get tiring after a short time riding. The packing knocks a db's off while keeping a deeper note to the exhaust. Being able to "tune" the mufflers is a good option in my books.

Emgo 80-84013 CHROME
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I've put the Emgo mufflers on a few 350's and used the ones with the removable baffle and repacked the mufflers with additional packing before putting them onto the bike.
They tend to be loud/tinny and get tiring after a short time riding. The packing knocks a db's off while keeping a deeper note to the exhaust. Being able to "tune" the mufflers is a good option in my books.

Emgo 80-84013 CHROME
I’ll have to look more into how I can pack them. I’ve never done anything like that before. Thanks for the tip!
 

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DSC02918.jpg DSC02916.jpg



Very Technical and can be baffling ..... this one has much better factory packing than the previous ones I've done but I would still add some additional or as I usually do, replace the factory fibreglass with a better product. Packing is cheap.

Put some high temp anti-seize on the threads and go make some noise.
 

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My 68 CL 350 has 85 LBS and 90 LBS it will star easy and idle but it feels a little weak I don't have anything to compare it too as this is the first 4 stroke I ever owned. I'm thinking rebuild is in its future.
 

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Spec for a 350 twin compression is 165- 170 PSI and below 150 a rebuild is the recommended solution.
More than 10% varation between cylinders same thing

BUT... before you get drastic:
- Was the Throttle WIDE OPEN ? (Actuall it's best to just remove the carbs altogether.
- Were you using the KICK Stater or Electric ?
- Did you remove BOTH Spark PLUGS to get the motor to free wheel with as little resistane as possible?
- Are you sure your Valves are adjusted properly? (a slight bit too tight and they will leak compression)
- Did you try a Table Sppon of Oil in each cylinder to see if the compression jumps up? (usually indicates a ring problem as the oil settles against the rings and provides additional sealling)
 

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Did you try a Table Sppon of Oil in each cylinder to see if the compression jumps up? (usually indicates a ring problem as the oil settles against the rings and provides additional sealling)


Table spoon?? how many cc is that? and whats the compression ratio?

table sppon should read tea spoon me thinks......
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Anyone else have a panic attack while your bike is in 100 pieces and you can’t get in contact with the people you sent parts to? Haha. I just want this back together before it freezes because I don’t have a heated garage.
 

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I'm in the same condition with the unheated garage. I'm using this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-10K-BTU-HeatAround-360-Portable-Propane-Heater-in-Black-HA1360BK/303228792 to take the chill off. There is a larger version https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-18K-BTU-HeatAround-360-ELITE-Portable-Propane-Heater-in-Black-HA2360BK/303228790.
Nice thing about this particular heater is it's UL listed, has a low oxygen cutoff as well as a tip over cutoff. I'm using a 20# propane tank with a hose. For safety I turn the tank valve off until the heater dies, then turn the heater off. That way there's no residual gas in the hose to possibly leak out.
While you wait for the parts to return work on the little sub-assemblies, cleaning, polishing, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Should have most stuff in soon so I'm finishing up gasket removing. This stuff seems like it was welded on, it's terrible. I'm using a combo of carb cleaner and gasket remover and peeling it off slowly while letting it sit on for a day usually. There are definitely scrape and scratch marks. Final cleaning I've been using some white roloc bristle discs in a dremel and it's cleaning up nice and flat it seems. Does anyone have a suggestion for a flat file I can use? I'd be nice to check for flatness since I can't remove the studs easily.
 

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Never ever use a file on a gasket surface! They are for removing metal which is not what is wanted here.
I use a red sharpening stone similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/Norton-547-61463685560-Inchx2-Inchx1-Inchindia/dp/B00820NSMC It gives you a smooth surface while removing a bare minimum of material. Use a light oil while working in as close to a figure 8 motion as possible, I know the studs present a problem there.
This straight edge will suffice for what you're doing https://www.amazon.com/Anodized-Aluminum-Straight-Guaranteed-Within/dp/B01DQCBHJ6/ref=pd_cp_263_3/137-6766868-5294623?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DQCBHJ6&pd_rd_r=d84f32f2-c819-413d-bc07-8e73056a433a&pd_rd_w=vvitF&pd_rd_wg=vWB5B&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=9C2PVKQC45HG2D9EHY36&psc=1&refRID=9C2PVKQC45HG2D9EHY36 NOTE: straight edges must be stored hanging, never laid flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Thanks. I’ll pick those up. It looks looks the bristle discs on the dremel are doing great on the flat surfaces for a nice polish as long as I keep the speed low. I just turned in notice for my job to be done December 6 and won’t start back up until January 6 so I’ll have a full month to get this back together right.

I thought about polishing it up and making it new but I sort of like the tarnished dirty look for the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Got my cylinder back and went to put the rings on by putting in one edge in and rotating it around. Tried it twice and they shattered. I’ve heard the pliers are unnecessary but now I’m not so sure.

Do I need to get rings from the same place I got the pistons or are any +1.0mm rings ok? The oil rings went on fine, it was the middle ring.


Edit: bought more from cruzin. I'm so annoyed with myself. I'm also buying pliers this time.
 
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