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Here's his eBay link https://www.ebay.com/str/schumannmotorworks or you can call Chris at the number I posted earlier.
Price depends on the work needed. For me it was a light resurface, 1 Time Sert for the damaged sparkplug thread, 2 stainless exhaust valves, 2 Kibble White intake valves, 4 bronze valve guides and 4 Viton valve seals plus the Serdi valve seat cut. A little over $400 for everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Here's his eBay link https://www.ebay.com/str/schumannmotorworks or you can call Chris at the number I posted earlier.
Price depends on the work needed. For me it was a light resurface, 1 Time Sert for the damaged sparkplug thread, 2 stainless exhaust valves, 2 Kibble White intake valves, 4 bronze valve guides and 4 Viton valve seals plus the Serdi valve seat cut. A little over $400 for everything.
That’s not bad. I’ve already spent enough that I’ll keep this damn thing for life. Now I just have to find someone for the cylinder hone/bore. Thanks!
 

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I live in Fremont in seattle. Just wondering if I was gona meet a riding buddy. Don't go too fast, I don't want you to finish your rebuild before me ;) I'm also working in my apartment building garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Thanks everyone. Cam is off to Delta today. Head is going to Schumann. Now just to measure my cylinder to see if it needs boring.

Someone suggested changing the cam chain out while I have the top end apart, what are your thoughts on this? It doesn't look worn by naked eye? I think almost all issues I've had with bad compression leading to leaky valves is because the cam chain hadn't been adjusted. I already got all new tensioner stuff.
 

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Cam chains are relatively cheap so I always replace them. They do stretch and wear internally.

You will be splitting the cases to clean and replace seals ( note you don't have to split the cases to do this but it is much easier) so it is a few extra minutes to do the cam chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
So I still haven't found anyone for the honing/boring. I went out and played with my dial bore gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OU7SYZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

I put the 2.4" pin in, with the 0.08 and 0.04" spacers in. This is supposed to be 2.52" or spec for the bore. I then zero'd it on my mic set to 2.52 and even checked it with a digital caliper. So I ran it in the bore following youtube videos and each time it seemed to settle or reverse around the 20 mark on the dial. I did this in 8 places in each cylinder and they all seemed to stop around the 20 mark. Does that mean my measurement is 2.522"?

I feel like I shouldn't use that 0.4" spacer and maybe use the 0.2? Or am I supposed to get it close as possible? I know with me being new and having cheap tools there's lots of error possible, but I should be close. I'm not making any decisions on this and will get whoever hones it to measure as well.


I know you all will suggest a bore if it's at that limit, right? What's my bore over? Does this mean new pistons?
 

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That type of bore gauge makes it very difficult to get accurate measurements. It is so easy to tilt it and be out of square with the bore.

You can use it to check taper and out of round to get an idea of cylinder wear.

Every cylinder I have taken in has had taper and worn the bore at an angle on at least one cylinder. I made the machinist work a little extra last time when I only went .5 over a stock cylinder as I had a new piston set in that size. He had to do one pass then reset to finish. I would just go to a full 1 or at least .75 over. You won't be back in there in all probability and cylinders are easy to find if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks Boomer.

Does anyone have any suggestions where I can send this to? I can’t find anyone to do work up where I’m at. Preferably someone that can supply the new pistons/rings. I’ll probably just go 1mm over as Boomer suggested.

Side note: how bad will my head guy hate me if I can’t get all the gasket off? Is that part of their cleaning or should I be as spotless as I can before I send it? Also I need to remove the exhaust studs first right?
 

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For the boring call these guys 206-420-8736, it's a place called Moto Shed in Seattle. I used Tom's Performance Machine Shop here in Vancouver so you might check with local performance/race type machine shops in the area. Member "Tools" also does machine work, not sure where he's located.
On the head the exhaust studs can be left in place. Chris will charge extra for removing the gasket material but he does a media blast cleaning of the head before working on it.
I'll vote for the 1mm over bore, any machine shop you use will require that they have both new pistons on hand before they'll do it.
I bought these pistons which have the rings and new pins included. https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/08/17/68-73-honda-cl350-1-0mm-oversize-pistons-set/
RIMG0092.JPG RIMG0094.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Wow. Those are a fourth the cost of the ones I found. Thanks guys. Insane savings for me. I couldn’t do this without you all.

If I measured incorrectly there’s no way I would need more than 1mm over right? I’m just new to all this.
 

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Wow. Those are a fourth the cost of the ones I found. Thanks guys. Insane savings for me. I couldn’t do this without you all.

If I measured incorrectly there’s no way I would need more than 1mm over right? I’m just new to all this.
It's what we do here :D

If for some reason it took larger than 1mm to clean things up, there are plenty of used cylinders out there. You'll probably be fine at 1mm over
 

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1mm is .0393" or as most people say 40 thousandths. That's a lot of material and unless you had deep gouges it's more than sufficient. I didn't even bother checking mine since there were scratches my finger nail caught on. I probably could have gone with .25 but figured I'd just make the full jump and be done.
Oversizes are set at .25mm increments, .25, .50, .75 and 1.00. There are some special overs that are even higher but that's purely specialty stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Great. Pistons ordered. I think I'll return those measuring tools. It's not really my forte and as longdistancerider said, it should be fine 1mm over. They were neat to use, but not really accurate enough in my hands or at that pricepoint.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
For the boring call these guys 206-420-8736, it's a place called Moto Shed in Seattle. I used Tom's Performance Machine Shop here in Vancouver so you might check with local performance/race type machine shops in the area. Member "Tools" also does machine work, not sure where he's located.
On the head the exhaust studs can be left in place. Chris will charge extra for removing the gasket material but he does a media blast cleaning of the head before working on it.
I'll vote for the 1mm over bore, any machine shop you use will require that they have both new pistons on hand before they'll do it.
I bought these pistons which have the rings and new pins included. https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/08/17/68-73-honda-cl350-1-0mm-oversize-pistons-set/
View attachment 294270 View attachment 294272
I just noticed these are shipped from Japan. About how long did you have to wait? I haven't received a shipping notification yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks. Gives me plenty of time to remove the gasket from the bottom end and put on the new timing chain and rebuild the carbs AGAIN. I also plan to de-rust the tank, but not line it. I'm waiting until closer to time since I can't fill the tank immediately after.
Two of the 3 pieces of the top end are officially gone to be worked on. As soon as the pistons are in, I'll get the jugs out, too.

Will the standard gaskets fit the 1.0mm over? Is there anything else I need to be aware of ahead of time for the bore as far as other components go?
 

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Standard gasket set will work fine. I like Vesrah. You'll need seals also since they aren't included in a gasket set.
Look at the lower case half where the oil pump pickup sits. There's a small rectangular hole from the pan for oil flow. Mine was 1/2 covered with casting flash that I drilled away to clear it.
You might consider removing the baffle plate in the lower case so you can clean that out spotless. Even after hot tanking the case there was quite a bit of crud still stuck in there. It's just a case of grind the alunimun rivet heads off and 2 screws. Drill and tap those 3 rivet stands for 6mm 1.0 pitch bolts.
How clean should you get the engine pieces? clean enough to have your mother eat off of. :twisted:
 
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